07denali Posted August 7, 2012 Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 Hey I asked this question in another thread but never got an answer so I figured I'd start my own thread and ask. I have a 200 amp in-line fuse to my 2nd battery under the hood running and that running to my primary battery and a 200 amp circuit breaker going to my amp. My truck has an OEM fuse block with a 175 amp fuse which I used to connect the starter, alternator and battery. But the OEM fuse blew and when I ordered 175 amp fuses, I received 300 amp fuses. Will it hurt anything by using different size fuses or fuses that are too large for my electrical system? I think a 200-250 amp fuse would be more appropriate for the OEM dist block. Thx guys. Quote Vehicle: 2007 GMC Denali Headunit: Pioneer AVH-8400BH Sub Amp: Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp Sub: Ascendant Audio Havoc 12" Electrical: Big 3, Dual Batteries, Stock 160-amp alternator Wiring: RF 0 gauge Box: Custom built 1.89^3 net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricM9104 Posted August 7, 2012 Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 omg no. Not unless you upgrade the OE wiring...Leave the OE wiring alone. What you think is appropriate is not, if the engineers at GMC thought it, they would have done so. You fucked up your wiring somewhere... Did you really rewire your starter to a fusible link? That'll pop your fuse quick... Quote 2015 Honda Civic LX 4dr | 24k miles Stock H/U and mids/highs Power Acoustik GW3-12" D2 Sub HiFonics BXX1200.1D @ 1ohm Random 2.5^3' dual ported box NVX LOC Stinger wiring throughout 1977 Chevy SWB Cammed 350 Dual exhaust Cheap Wish stereo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07denali Posted August 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 No I removed all the factory wires and replaced them with 0 gauge. The only two OEM wires left are the starter wire and the wire that runs to the trucks computer. everything works fine. I was just wondering if the 300 amp fuse I'm using is too much when it should probably be 200-200 amps. And if it is, what issues will it cause. Quote Vehicle: 2007 GMC Denali Headunit: Pioneer AVH-8400BH Sub Amp: Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp Sub: Ascendant Audio Havoc 12" Electrical: Big 3, Dual Batteries, Stock 160-amp alternator Wiring: RF 0 gauge Box: Custom built 1.89^3 net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07denali Posted August 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 FYI, the OEM fuse block already had the starter and fuse box to it, plus a wire to the battery. That's exactly how I replaced it but upgraded the wires that go from alt to fuse block then to batt with 0 gauge. For the most part, the OEM wires stayed the same and I only upgraded the wires to do the big 3 rather than adding to it. But now I'm using a bigger fuse which is more than the draw of my truck. Quote Vehicle: 2007 GMC Denali Headunit: Pioneer AVH-8400BH Sub Amp: Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp Sub: Ascendant Audio Havoc 12" Electrical: Big 3, Dual Batteries, Stock 160-amp alternator Wiring: RF 0 gauge Box: Custom built 1.89^3 net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted August 7, 2012 Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 why are you using a bigger fuse to the truck? Have you increased the load on the trucks electrical? more importantly, why did it blow the fuse. It really does sound like your pulling juice to the starter through that OEM fuse block, Pump the starter wire straight into the battery. Quote CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07denali Posted August 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 why are you using a bigger fuse to the truck? Have you increased the load on the trucks electrical? more importantly, why did it blow the fuse. It really does sound like your pulling juice to the starter through that OEM fuse block, Pump the starter wire straight into the battery. I'm using a bigger fuse b/c I ordered 175 amp fuses but the lady sent me 300 amp fuses so I used them anyways. The original fuse blew when I forgot to take the negative off my batt and took the power wire off my alternator and it grounded on its own casing. Basically my wiring is fine. Everything works great and looks nice and clean. I'm just curious what problems can be caused by using a fuse that is bigger than I'm supposed to. I'm guessing I need to be around 200-250 amp for fuses. Quote Vehicle: 2007 GMC Denali Headunit: Pioneer AVH-8400BH Sub Amp: Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp Sub: Ascendant Audio Havoc 12" Electrical: Big 3, Dual Batteries, Stock 160-amp alternator Wiring: RF 0 gauge Box: Custom built 1.89^3 net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07denali Posted August 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 why are you using a bigger fuse to the truck? Have you increased the load on the trucks electrical? more importantly, why did it blow the fuse. It really does sound like your pulling juice to the starter through that OEM fuse block, Pump the starter wire straight into the battery. Oh and the starter wire did go straight to the batt originally but it wasn't long enough to reach the batt post (they give you barely enough to reach) and since I turned my batt, it wouldn't reach so I put it on the fuse block which works fine. The other option was to replace the starter wire to reach the batt but that would have taken a lot more work since the starter solenoid is under the truck. Quote Vehicle: 2007 GMC Denali Headunit: Pioneer AVH-8400BH Sub Amp: Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp Sub: Ascendant Audio Havoc 12" Electrical: Big 3, Dual Batteries, Stock 160-amp alternator Wiring: RF 0 gauge Box: Custom built 1.89^3 net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted August 7, 2012 Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 (edited) why are you using a bigger fuse to the truck? Have you increased the load on the trucks electrical? more importantly, why did it blow the fuse. It really does sound like your pulling juice to the starter through that OEM fuse block, Pump the starter wire straight into the battery. I'm using a bigger fuse b/c I ordered 175 amp fuses but the lady sent me 300 amp fuses so I used them anyways. The original fuse blew when I forgot to take the negative off my batt and took the power wire off my alternator and it grounded on its own casing. Basically my wiring is fine. Everything works great and looks nice and clean. I'm just curious what problems can be caused by using a fuse that is bigger than I'm supposed to. I'm guessing I need to be around 200-250 amp for fuses. You did say that you replaced the wire on the other side of the fuse to the vehicles fuse relay center with 1/0 right ? If yes you should be good. If no then you are at risk. Edit. Wait how did the fuse blow? Do you have your alt power connected on the same or opposite side of the fuse as your battery? I'm confused. Diagram/Pic would be nice. Edited August 7, 2012 by Tarball Quote CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricM9104 Posted August 7, 2012 Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 A starter does not need to be wired like that... Rewire it back to OE config. Stick with the PROPER fusing... Quote 2015 Honda Civic LX 4dr | 24k miles Stock H/U and mids/highs Power Acoustik GW3-12" D2 Sub HiFonics BXX1200.1D @ 1ohm Random 2.5^3' dual ported box NVX LOC Stinger wiring throughout 1977 Chevy SWB Cammed 350 Dual exhaust Cheap Wish stereo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07denali Posted August 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 The problem with wiring it to OEM configuration is that the starter wire is not long enough. I also replaced the battery terminals with aftermarket ones so the OEM wiring no longer fits. But it will not reach the battery so I connected it to the OEM fuse block. I understand I should stick to proper fusing, but I was just looking for an answer as to why. I guess I just like to know the reason behind things rather than just doing it for the sake of it "being the right thing." The fuse blew when I forgot to disconnect the negative on the battery. So the power wire was live and touched the engine block and shorted. Here is a pic of my install: As you can see at the rear, that fuse block has my alternator power wire going in and has the computer system, starter and battery coming out. Quote Vehicle: 2007 GMC Denali Headunit: Pioneer AVH-8400BH Sub Amp: Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp Sub: Ascendant Audio Havoc 12" Electrical: Big 3, Dual Batteries, Stock 160-amp alternator Wiring: RF 0 gauge Box: Custom built 1.89^3 net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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