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Ok so I'm getting conflicting answers on if this is the correct way to wire.


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I know how a DC charging system works, and if you could read you would see that I was talking about when excessive amperage was being pulled to the point that the batteries (A.K.A reserve) was depleted. The alt will still try to charge the batteries at the same time as powering the amplifier which will worsen the situation. Perhaps in my previous posts I didn't do a great job of wording my thoughts.

Technically its an AC generator, ever wonder why they are called alternators? Just sayin, haha.

Actually it hasn't been an A/C generator in at least 20 years. To make an alternator run A/C you need to modify it, which is commonly done on large case leece neville's and Electrodyne's to run welders and large air compressor's on commercial trucks.

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An alternator produces AC current but it is converted to DC by the rectifier inside the alternator.

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An alternator produces AC current but it is converted to DC by the rectifier inside the alternator.

this LOL

Exactly, the solid state diode's are what produce the DC for modern vehicles. So if you want an actual A/C alternator you need to take out the rotor and the diode pack and run your 3 phase wires out of the alternator.

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I figured I had it wired correctly. I get around 14.5 volts but I have seen it go as low as 13.2, I just want a constant 14.5, never dropping. My alt is stock, either 140 amp or 160 amp, those are the options my car has, not sure which one I have for sure. it has all 2 gauge wire under the hood. and I have all 0 gauge wire in the trunk.

All the stereo shops say the 2 gauge is fine under the hood, and there is no reason to run 0 gauge for big 3....but I just want highest volts possible as to not hurt my amp. and have it run best.

You would not need 0 gauge for the alternator wiring as the amperage is low enough. If you switch to High Output Alternator over 200amps, I would recommend using zero gauge...you would be safe with 2 gauge, but most people will eventually upgrade. At that point, your necessary cable will already be in place ;)

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Group 31? Explain that please.

With regards to Group 3100 batteries, they are some of the largest on the market, and the brand we recommend, XS POWER, can support up to 5000 watts as a secondary source of power. The D3100s weigh 75.40 lbs and have a CA (cranking amps) rating of 1360. This is important when figuring out how much power you really need. The rating is defined as "a measurement of the number of amps a 12v battery can deliver for 30 secondes at 32 degrees F and not drop below 7.2volts." These batteries are beasts and many of our customers utilize them if they have the room in their vehicle.

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