AMI CUSTOMS Posted October 27, 2012 Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 Andrew, arent you at finals? Shut up and get in the lanes lol LMAO, I WISH F#$K!!!!!! I am stuck at work with no one to cover so I couldn't make it super sad face...... Quote TEAM SOUNDQUBED -- TEAM SOUTH TEAM S.O.B. - Founder & Captain 3x Streetbeat World Record Holder 2017 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 2016 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem/2nd Adv 4/2nd Xtreme 4 2015 MWSPL 2nd place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 2014 USACI 2nd place Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db 2014 MWSPL 2nd place Xtreme 4 - 144.9 db 2013 USACI 1st place Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db 2013 USACI 1st place Street Q+ - 162.8 db 2013 MWSPL 3rd Kaos2 & 4th Xtreme 4 2011 USACI 2nd place MOD 1001-2k - 160.0 db 2011 MWSPL 4th place: Adv3 - 157.8 db, Kaos2 - 150s db, Xtreme4 - 140s db 2010 ARSPL 1st place 501-750 - 160.3 db Arkansas loudest Best score to date 164.4 db - Termlab Outlaw Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db MWSPL on Dash Legal door open (Music) - 162.5 db Sealed on dash Legal (Music) - 161.1 db - Termlab THE BLACK NASTY CURRENT BUILD & FAB The Black Nasty (6) 15 Rebuild Log 2012 (4) 15 Walled Sierra Build Log Evo X build log Facebook page The Black Nasty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thorshammer Posted October 27, 2012 Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 I just want to point this out... Cody said Moral of the story is, if you dont have a reactive ohm load of 1 ohm, the amp will protect and it will put out 0 watts. This is a true statement. Quite trying to pick apart and bash him for good info. O.P. You can expect rated as long as your reactive is above .8. Anything less than that and the amp does go into protect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted October 27, 2012 Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 as stated, to have a reactive ohm load of .35 ohms, your amps would have to be wired of a nominal load so low its not even funny...... No one in their right mind would talk about wiring an amp at 0ohms, let alone chances are even if you wired at 0ohms chances are your reactive load would be much higher than .35ohms. Again, when people say they want to wire their amps at .35 ohms, or .5 ohms, or .75 ohms they are talking about a NOMINAL load, not a REACTIVE load.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ18 Posted October 27, 2012 Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 Im fully aware that they are talking about wiring to a nominal of .35 or .5. My point is that if you dont know what you are doing then you shouldnt be wiring an amp that low and praying that you have enough rise to get you to 1 ohm reactive. Its just not worth the stress on your electrical and amp for maybe a few hundred more watts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
memphisBred Posted October 27, 2012 Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 You can't learn how without asking questions/researching. Someone who credits SMD for their knowledge like you do, should understand you gotta ask questions sometimes. Granted this "power under 1 ohm" topic is everywhere on the site. Just not specifically for the 7.5k. Quote SMD Super Seller/Buyer Audison----Hertz----Rainbow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikitaaa Posted October 27, 2012 Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 (edited) Im fully aware that they are talking about wiring to a nominal of .35 or .5. My point is that if you dont know what you are doing then you shouldnt be wiring an amp that low and praying that you have enough rise to get you to 1 ohm reactive. Its just not worth the stress on your electrical and amp for maybe a few hundred more watts. Out of curiosity, what do you mean by "a few hundred more watts". I think that the difference between 1 ohm reactive and 1 ohm nominal is a bit more than just a few hundred watts; on a 7.5k anyways.. I'm not trying to bash your post, but people always say that there will be minimal gains from wiring to get a 1 ohm reactive load. But in my head, it seems like being at 1 ohm reactive and wiring at 1 ohm (+3xish rise) would be quite the change. Maybe I'm wrong or misunderstanding your post.. Edited October 27, 2012 by Nikitaaa Quote 2007 M/T Honda Civic Coupe EX (4) Sundown Audio X-8's (2) Ampere Audio 3800.1's (3) Stinger SPV-44 Batteries (1) Mechman 240 3:1 Ratio 4th order sealed from the trunkTEAM NWSPLBest termlab scores to date in Honda trunk:151.7db legal (official) IASCA trunk 3 classBest termlab scores to date in my walled Subie:152.9db legal (unofficial) IASCA advanced 2 class155db outlaw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ18 Posted October 27, 2012 Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 Difference in .35 and .5 nominal, the gain would be minimal when building a daily system. If you are chasing numbers, then it's a different story. I am all for wiring below 1 ohm nominal, if you know what you are doing and are willing to take the risk and pay to have your equipment fixed if something goes wrong. I'm not going to go running to rusty if something happens to my 9ks when I am wired at .5. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamHT Posted October 27, 2012 Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 You can't learn how without asking questions/researching. Someone who credits SMD for their knowledge like you do, should understand you gotta ask questions sometimes. Granted this "power under 1 ohm" topic is everywhere on the site. Just not specifically for the 7.5k. That's not something you learn by asking questions. Because I throw 3x rated power at my subs and tell someone keep the signal clean and watch out help someone understand the mechanical and thermal limits of their equipment? The point is, people who are going to ask are people who don't know any better (nothing wrong with that) but that also means they dont know their equipments mechanical limits. I didn't know either, I learned, and I just did it. I blew a lot of equipment (giggity) in my day. Quote Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMI CUSTOMS Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 (edited) And just to add, there is a big jump in power going from 1 ohm down to .35 or lower. I gained exactly 3 db on my last wall going from 1 ohm down to .25 ohm on burp. Also doubled my power output clamped style, went from 5500 watts to 11k on two 3500D.1 AQ amps. And I have seen similiar gains from DC amps doing the same thing. Edited October 30, 2012 by AMI CUSTOMS Quote TEAM SOUNDQUBED -- TEAM SOUTH TEAM S.O.B. - Founder & Captain 3x Streetbeat World Record Holder 2017 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 2016 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem/2nd Adv 4/2nd Xtreme 4 2015 MWSPL 2nd place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 2014 USACI 2nd place Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db 2014 MWSPL 2nd place Xtreme 4 - 144.9 db 2013 USACI 1st place Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db 2013 USACI 1st place Street Q+ - 162.8 db 2013 MWSPL 3rd Kaos2 & 4th Xtreme 4 2011 USACI 2nd place MOD 1001-2k - 160.0 db 2011 MWSPL 4th place: Adv3 - 157.8 db, Kaos2 - 150s db, Xtreme4 - 140s db 2010 ARSPL 1st place 501-750 - 160.3 db Arkansas loudest Best score to date 164.4 db - Termlab Outlaw Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db MWSPL on Dash Legal door open (Music) - 162.5 db Sealed on dash Legal (Music) - 161.1 db - Termlab THE BLACK NASTY CURRENT BUILD & FAB The Black Nasty (6) 15 Rebuild Log 2012 (4) 15 Walled Sierra Build Log Evo X build log Facebook page The Black Nasty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamHT Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 If power output and SPL scores matter, wiring down can definitely help. Imagine if at a specific frequency, you rise 3x. Wired to .25 nominal puts you at .75 ohm. Whereas wired to 1 ohm you'd rise to 3 ohms. Definitely a huge difference in power output from 1 to 3 ohms in a lot of the class D bigger amps. Quote Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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