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Ill let him explain since I don't know the exact #s.....

Ray is an electrition by trade..... prollly knows more about electricity than 98% on this forum

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SCSB

Santa Cruz Speaker Box

Build logs:

Daily Driver Lemon Marquis

2 american bass 750.1s

350.4 on 14 focal 6.5s

sq 945 on 4 hertz tweeters

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Nothing to explain .. I post from phone an posted wrong simple mistake.. I want more power so amps are going up for sale

TEAM DC AUDIO

VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop

HEADUNIT:alpine 9886

PREAMP:arcaudio

FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door

KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4

REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s

HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors

SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV

SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s

ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket

WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back

BATTERIES:6-d1400s

TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5.

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  • 1 month later...

Does anyone have any numbers on the 7.5 run at. .35ohms

First off let me start with this. If you run any DC amp below 1 ohm, you WILL void your warranty.

Now lets get to the lesson.

If you are asking this question, then you have no clue about nominal and reactive ohm loads and should not be wiring any amplifier below 1 ohm.

Nominal Ohm Load= What you are wired to at the amp before any signal is applied. Example- If you have 2 Dual 2 ohms subs wired in parallel, then you would be seeing a .5ohm load at the amp.

Reactive Ohm Load= actual ohm load seen by the amp once a signal is applied to the sub. Example- If you have 2 Dual 2 ohm subs wired in parallel down to .5 ohm nominal and then apply a signal to the subs, now the subs are effected by different variables that cause impedance rise.

Moral of the story is, if you dont have a reactive ohm load of 1 ohm, the amp will protect and it will put out 0 watts.

So you still want to know how much power the 7.5k will put out, 7500w at 1 ohm reactive and 12v.

If you see .35 ohm reactive at the amp, then you probably just cost yourself $1000 repair bill because your amp is gonna go boom.

lmfao

1999 oldsmobile alero

optima yellow top

Alpine CDE 124SXM

hifonics brutus 1200.1d

(2) lanzar opti 1232d inverted in mtx side ported box

lanzar cheap 80 dolla holla 1000 watt 2 channel - infinity 6x9

factory door speakers on bass blockers (dont judge me)

big 3 in 4gauge

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Does anyone have any numbers on the 7.5 run at. .35ohms

First off let me start with this. If you run any DC amp below 1 ohm, you WILL void your warranty.

Now lets get to the lesson.

If you are asking this question, then you have no clue about nominal and reactive ohm loads and should not be wiring any amplifier below 1 ohm.

Nominal Ohm Load= What you are wired to at the amp before any signal is applied. Example- If you have 2 Dual 2 ohms subs wired in parallel, then you would be seeing a .5ohm load at the amp.

Reactive Ohm Load= actual ohm load seen by the amp once a signal is applied to the sub. Example- If you have 2 Dual 2 ohm subs wired in parallel down to .5 ohm nominal and then apply a signal to the subs, now the subs are effected by different variables that cause impedance rise.

Moral of the story is, if you dont have a reactive ohm load of 1 ohm, the amp will protect and it will put out 0 watts.

So you still want to know how much power the 7.5k will put out, 7500w at 1 ohm reactive and 12v.

If you see .35 ohm reactive at the amp, then you probably just cost yourself $1000 repair bill because your amp is gonna go boom.

lmfao

Please explain to me the point of your very first post on this site being "laughing my fucking ass off"

Edited by CJ18
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i'm kinda laughing at the tool bags worthless ramblings myself. Trying to tell us that an amp wired below one ohm will automatically protect is pretty stupid since we have all seen it done many many times and the majority of us have probably done it ourselves and still have the equipment running to this day.

And .35? We have seen that ran in daily set ups with out the magic smoke coming out. Not all amps are built like the sony amps that i am sure this dude is so used to using that is trying to give us the "Lesson."

Edited by kandiman71874
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Daily Driver 1999 Kia Sephia

Kenwood DNX-893s
Audison Bit One Processor
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Sundown Audio SCV-6k
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No, Its Not A Burp Truck!!!!

2016 Season 3rd place in Xtreme 1 At Finals

2016 Season 6th Place In Kaos 1 At Finals ( Blew The Subs Up In First Round Eliminations)

2 Kansas State Records Set In 2016 In Xtreme 1 And Kaos 1 In Midwest SPL

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David said:

audio is a lifestyle, not a hobby

newls1
I cant read a tape to save my life... 1/2's are ok, but other marks confuse me
kingsuv
only men who cant read a tape, take it in the ass
kingsuv
you sir, get a pink hard hat on jobsites

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Does anyone have any numbers on the 7.5 run at. .35ohms

First off let me start with this. If you run any DC amp below 1 ohm, you WILL void your warranty.

Now lets get to the lesson.

If you are asking this question, then you have no clue about nominal and reactive ohm loads and should not be wiring any amplifier below 1 ohm.

Nominal Ohm Load= What you are wired to at the amp before any signal is applied. Example- If you have 2 Dual 2 ohms subs wired in parallel, then you would be seeing a .5ohm load at the amp.

Reactive Ohm Load= actual ohm load seen by the amp once a signal is applied to the sub. Example- If you have 2 Dual 2 ohm subs wired in parallel down to .5 ohm nominal and then apply a signal to the subs, now the subs are effected by different variables that cause impedance rise.

Moral of the story is, if you dont have a reactive ohm load of 1 ohm, the amp will protect and it will put out 0 watts.

So you still want to know how much power the 7.5k will put out, 7500w at 1 ohm reactive and 12v.

If you see .35 ohm reactive at the amp, then you probably just cost yourself $1000 repair bill because your amp is gonna go boom.

lmfao

Please explain to me the point of your very first post on this site being "laughing my fucking ass off"

I am going to report you so the mods can keep an eye on you to see if you are going to be a useful member or just a douche bag with nothing useful to add.

hahahahahahah u mad bro? i didnt kno we couldnt laugh i dont see that on the forum rules. if u rly wanna know i was lmfao @ i thought ur post was good til i read the dozens after it. please dont reply to me with any nerd rage kthxbye

Edited by tgunnem
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1999 oldsmobile alero

optima yellow top

Alpine CDE 124SXM

hifonics brutus 1200.1d

(2) lanzar opti 1232d inverted in mtx side ported box

lanzar cheap 80 dolla holla 1000 watt 2 channel - infinity 6x9

factory door speakers on bass blockers (dont judge me)

big 3 in 4gauge

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