mrdavebasshead75 Posted September 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 All wiring is new, and the grounds are scraped to bare metal with no paint or fancy fixings covering them. Should I ground the Shuriken in the back as well? It just has the ground from the front batt run. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141026-2001-bravada-build-2-15supdated/?fromsearch=1 ----old build!! http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194247-2005-chrysler-300c-buildslowwwww-lol/ -----new build!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Go back through and make sure all bolts are tight and terminals are soldered/crimped tight. Again, how was your gain set? SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bump4life Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Battery up front is a brand new Walmart special. Biggest I could get BEFORE I had beats in the truck. I have one negative run to the back Shuriken and its grounded up front along with the big 3 scraped to bare metal and engine block. The Shuriken is NOT grounded in back. Should I ground it in back? The front rests @ 12.2 & Shuriken rests at 12.4. When running, Shuriken is at 14.2 & front is at 14.1. I figured im only running just a tad over 1800 watts total and believed the big 3 and Sburiken would suffice. And all wire is Knu CCA.. how is your rear bat at a higher voltage than your front with the engine on? also your resting voltages with car off seems kinda low as well. it is proven that the run from bat negative up front to bat neg in rear is not needed until higher power systems. yes it is good to have but if you can ground your bat in rear to a good grounding point, I would do that in addition to other run. frame strut tower, anything like those are good grounds 2nd Your run fromt he front bat is more than likely 15 feet+ to be generous correct? With CCA, that is really only able to supply around 120-150 amps yet again beign generous. my friend switched 2 3 foot runs from CCA to OFC and say goodbye to major voltage drop. yes OFC makes a huge difference. If it were me, id sell all the CCA and get OFC, especially with your long runs. and i would make sure all your grounds are as good as possible Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildbillpb Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Those resting voltages are terrible you should be at 12.7+, when was the last time you charged the batteries on an actual battery charger? An alternator only maintains them it doesnt fully charge them. Also I personally ground to the alternator, you want the ground as close to the source of output as possible. Grounding in the back isnt needed. Team DC Audio Build Log: 4th order flat wall, 8 15s! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdavebasshead75 Posted September 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Go back through and make sure all bolts are tight and terminals are soldered/crimped tight. Again, how was your gain set? Still waiting on my DD-1 I ordered. But I hooked it up to make sure everything was running since I bought used equipment. Skar is from a member on here, subs are from Kevin over at Skar and box was wonderfully made by me. Gain is set by ear but only halfway up. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141026-2001-bravada-build-2-15supdated/?fromsearch=1 ----old build!! http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194247-2005-chrysler-300c-buildslowwwww-lol/ -----new build!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bump4life Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Go back through and make sure all bolts are tight and terminals are soldered/crimped tight. Again, how was your gain set? Still waiting on my DD-1 I ordered. But I hooked it up to make sure everything was running since I bought used equipment. Skar is from a member on here, subs are from Kevin over at Skar and box was wonderfully made by me. Gain is set by ear but only halfway up. my gain is all the way down to minimum. it all depends what your rca voltage to the inputs are. you could be clipping your amp and subs to shit with the gain half way. if you dont know what your doing turn it down!!!! or risk blowing equipment. Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdavebasshead75 Posted September 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Those resting voltages are terrible you should be at 12.7+, when was the last time you charged the batteries on an actual battery charger? An alternator only maintains them it doesnt fully charge them. Also I personally ground to the alternator, you want the ground as close to the source of output as possible. Grounding in the back isnt needed. I do have the the ground to the alt and correction on my part, I just checked and it rests at 12.9 in the front and 12.8 in the back. I only got the cca due to budget restraints and running a small system. Figured it should do just fine. I also researched and found alot if people use knu cca with no issues. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141026-2001-bravada-build-2-15supdated/?fromsearch=1 ----old build!! http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194247-2005-chrysler-300c-buildslowwwww-lol/ -----new build!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ight Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 I think your batteries probably aren't charged, that BT-100 would hold a 1.5k amp all day charged with a 120a alt. I'm gonna hate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ight Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Those resting voltages are terrible you should be at 12.7+, when was the last time you charged the batteries on an actual battery charger? An alternator only maintains them it doesnt fully charge them. Also I personally ground to the alternator, you want the ground as close to the source of output as possible. Grounding in the back isnt needed. I do have the the ground to the alt and correction on my part, I just checked and it rests at 12.9 in the front and 12.8 in the back. I only got the cca due to budget restraints and running a small system. Figured it should do just fine. I also researched and found alot if people use knu cca with no issues. Don't let anyone tell you CCA is terrible and the cause of your issue, especially Knu's stuff it's oversized and if you have 1/0 that's plenty for a 1500w amp. I'm gonna hate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildbillpb Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 I do have the the ground to the alt and correction on my part, I just checked and it rests at 12.9 in the front and 12.8 in the back. I only got the cca due to budget restraints and running a small system. Figured it should do just fine. I also researched and found alot if people use knu cca with no issues. You should charge those batteries still if they havent been for a while. The cca is fine you should be able to get 250 amps through it, which doesnt matter any ways because you arent pulling more than probably 120 amps at a time. The wire front to back only needs to be as big as it has to be to pull from the front what you need in the back, your not trying to discharge your whole battery through your one piece of 1/0 for daily and the amount of amperage your running that is fine. Team DC Audio Build Log: 4th order flat wall, 8 15s! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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