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What basis is that info given on? I'm about to start buying and load testing cable because there seems to be a lot of bs surrounding the issue.

What do you mean what basis? It's is what the actual real world results are of these wires I guess

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OP said his gain was half way up... IIRC that amp has a 6-0.2 gain on it. He stated that he has 4v pre outs so technically 1/2 gain is about 3v. Gain is set to high but not sure if that could cause that much drop. I was running my sax-1200d on stock 100a alt with a xs d3400 under the hood(no big 3) @ 1 ohm with little to no voltage drop. I do have 1/0 OFC power and ground though. Not sure if this means anything, just added info of something that wasn't set properly if you were just matching gain on amp to 4v.

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this was the advice i was given.

http://www.stevemead...-answer-wiring/

here is quote from Ray

I skipped over all the know it alls.

Sorry.

Cca 1/0 is good for 125-150 amps at 17'

Thats it

Ofc 1/0 is good for 250 at 17'

PERIOD

there are other threads where same info was given

Amp is rated at 160 amps.

Remember, an alt for a car is made to handle the car and some minor accessories. You add another 180 amps of stuff on an 85 amp alt, you are already over the alts capabilities. Turn on the a/c or headlights or what ever, and add that fuse rating as well. So you're going to have voltage drop. The extra battery is good and all and will help for the immediate power, but the alt is still working it's ass off. Has to recharge. If his alt is a little bigger, than it should handle it a little better. Basically, CCA OCF isn't gonna mean shit, but start out troubleshooting from the least expensive first. A ground on the rear battery may help or it may not, but isn't going to hurt. (there is more to it, but in a quick round about nutshell?) Biggest thing I have learned in car audio, is if you want to do it right, spend the money on the electrical first. Alt, batt(s) and wire (AND FUSES!). Your stereo is only as good as the weakest point.

What Bassick is trying to say is, if two wires is more than one OCF, and the guy has one CCA already, then buying another run of CCA is more than enough and will cost less.

Money on the Alt, but all ideas listed aren't bad, but some may be unnecessary. If his alt is tiny, the CCA or OCF isn't going to matter, because he isn't able to put that much through either one.

10501650_10203332501847103_1859383749711

Blown

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this was the advice i was given.

http://www.stevemead...-answer-wiring/

here is quote from Ray

I skipped over all the know it alls.

Sorry.

Cca 1/0 is good for 125-150 amps at 17'

Thats it

Ofc 1/0 is good for 250 at 17'

PERIOD

there are other threads where same info was given

Amp is rated at 160 amps.

Remember, an alt for a car is made to handle the car and some minor accessories. You add another 180 amps of stuff on an 85 amp alt, you are already over the alts capabilities. Turn on the a/c or headlights or what ever, and add that fuse rating as well. So you're going to have voltage drop. The extra battery is good and all and will help for the immediate power, but the alt is still working it's ass off. Has to recharge. If his alt is a little bigger, than it should handle it a little better. Basically, CCA OCF isn't gonna mean shit, but start out troubleshooting from the least expensive first. A ground on the rear battery may help or it may not, but isn't going to hurt. (there is more to it, but in a quick round about nutshell?) Biggest thing I have learned in car audio, is if you want to do it right, spend the money on the electrical first. Alt, batt(s) and wire (AND FUSES!). Your stereo is only as good as the weakest point.

What Bassick is trying to say is, if two wires is more than one OCF, and the guy has one CCA already, then buying another run of CCA is more than enough and will cost less.

Money on the Alt, but all ideas listed aren't bad, but some may be unnecessary. If his alt is tiny, the CCA or OCF isn't going to matter, because he isn't able to put that much through either one.

i agree that he should check his grounds first. and add some if necessary. but as Snafu has stated in that thread, CCA has a higher resistance. not only will OFC carry more current, it will do so with less resistence. What Im trying to say is by switching to OFC, and doing it right the first time like you say, he would give his stock alt as much help as possible to keep up. the resistence in the CCA is what is causing the voltage drop especially his long runs of it. but grounds are number 1 thing to check.

now in OP case, yea adding a 2nd run to each and every CCA run, ground, power kine he has, would work and decrease resistence and add current carry maximum but at the end of the day isnt it easier and probably less expensive and less work (after ring terminals, solder, etc) to just switch to OFC and do it the right way? less wire in the car, easier to conceal. Im nnot saying he needs to, but as one of his final changes if his voltage drop is not fixed, OFC is what I would do before I bought an alternator or another batttery

CCA has 30 - 40% greater resistance per foot than OFC of the same size. Most recommend using one to two cable sizes larger in CCA to get equivalent current carrying capacity as OFC.

Ohms law is your friend here . . . it's a law, not just a good idea.

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Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4...
Best Scores out of a trunk
153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz
154+ windows down, 155+ kick

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2 runs of CCA > 1 ofc all day everyday and if i was chasing numbers and it wanted less voltage drop i would run 2 runs of CCA over 1 run of ofc again all day everyday

for real tho just because 1 run of OFC you felt was the way to go and fit you install better does not mean it will be the best way to go for everybody

but what do i know i only had a truck that would pull over 2000 amps of current

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I would first check both batteries and then the alternator.Then after that start checking grounds and most important why is your back battery grounded all the way in the front? If I read that correctly. Grounds should be short as possible which means you should ground your rear batt in the rear. As for the wire I wouldn't bother thinking about OFC or CCA right now cause thats not the problem.Try some stuff and get back with us with updates

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Ok so I went out today and redid my front ground thats connected to the alt case, rescraped the spot thats connected to the frame for the big 3 & grounded the rear batt to the frame which was a PAIN IN THE ASS!! Had to cut the carpet in the cargo area, jack the truck up, remove the right rear tire and drill away! Scraped the frame and prayed!!!! Full tilt and doesnt drop below 13.7!!!!!! Excellent!!! Thanks for all the help guys!!! Will be upgrading my front batt and got a quote from Singer!!

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Ok so I went out today and redid my front ground thats connected to the alt case, rescraped the spot thats connected to the frame for the big 3 & grounded the rear batt to the frame which was a PAIN IN THE ASS!! Had to cut the carpet in the cargo area, jack the truck up, remove the right rear tire and drill away! Scraped the frame and prayed!!!! Full tilt and doesnt drop below 13.7!!!!!! Excellent!!! Thanks for all the help guys!!! Will be upgrading my front batt and got a quote from Singer!!

:runlaugh:

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Ok so I went out today and redid my front ground thats connected to the alt case, rescraped the spot thats connected to the frame for the big 3 & grounded the rear batt to the frame which was a PAIN IN THE ASS!! Had to cut the carpet in the cargo area, jack the truck up, remove the right rear tire and drill away! Scraped the frame and prayed!!!! Full tilt and doesnt drop below 13.7!!!!!! Excellent!!! Thanks for all the help guys!!! Will be upgrading my front batt and got a quote from Singer!!

hmmmm looks like you dont have change your wire ether

:shok: imagin that!!!!!!!!!!

Have you ever had your woofers blown?

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