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Huge Kerfs with T-line building fun!! lots of pics


revoracing247

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I've got a 12" Mojo in a t-line, and it actually hurts. I like the time you spent to show the designs. good job. Also... 24Hz, um, ok....kool, don't forget the sub-sonic filter.

the mojo's i think look kind of cool personally. and thanks! hopefully i can put that time into doing it right! and yeah it's definitely low, but i'm just doing it to the fs of the sub :P

12 inch sub t-line @24hz really?? woot

gets me excited too haha

and also just wanna say i've never really painted anything before in my life (i mean like i've done a oil pan and stuff like that) so don't get mad at me if i can't make it look exactly like my last post! also does anyone know how'd i do the stencil in for the JL logo?

also still on the hunt for a table saw i can borrow from someone and i should have plenty of time this weekend to get to work on this wood!

I think you have a bit of truck stuck in your mud bro

~Ford Ranger, ext cab
Kenwood DDX470
1/0ga stinger wiring for big 3
1/0ga ofc flextech wiring

3 kinetik 800's

AQ2200 @1ohm

Sundown Audio X15

in a 27Hz tuned ported box

LE BUILD LOG!!!

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ok so today i decided to start to dive into t-line theory. and after doing research and finding a couple of math equations that have been used for quite some time now to model t-line boxes, i used it and plugged in my sub parameters and for tuning of 24hz i was 1inch off the port length! i say that's pretty good just using the write up on here.

anyways to make a long story short. my box is actually technically tuned to around 23.83hz. it's close enough that im not really gonna worry about it and change my whole design at this point but just thought i'd share my findings of my insomnia....

I think you have a bit of truck stuck in your mud bro

~Ford Ranger, ext cab
Kenwood DDX470
1/0ga stinger wiring for big 3
1/0ga ofc flextech wiring

3 kinetik 800's

AQ2200 @1ohm

Sundown Audio X15

in a 27Hz tuned ported box

LE BUILD LOG!!!

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pretty excited for today! it's cutting day! thanks to a buddy of mine i finally got a table saw and a router!

just gotta double check my lengths and figure out how im gonna handle 8'X'4 sheets and then it's time to do work!

WP_001822.jpg

im not trying to sound all weak but those sheets are heavy and it sucks moving them while trying not to damage any edges :P

alright enough complaining. time to cut!

I think you have a bit of truck stuck in your mud bro

~Ford Ranger, ext cab
Kenwood DDX470
1/0ga stinger wiring for big 3
1/0ga ofc flextech wiring

3 kinetik 800's

AQ2200 @1ohm

Sundown Audio X15

in a 27Hz tuned ported box

LE BUILD LOG!!!

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ugh it's really hard not to make this exactly like my build log.... so here's my build log if anyone wants more info.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/152974-ranger-t-line-build-tons-of-pics-woods-finally-cut/

anyways!

yesterday was a long day but i got all the wood cut!

WP_001841.jpg

and here's just trying out the puzzle piece design and see what it'll look like somewhat!

WP_001842.jpg

anyways might start drawing lines today and getting ready to put stuff together! just not sure if i should go buy a little thing that holds the boards at 90º before i start putting things together.

hey also do you guys think i should bondo all the hard angles with the 45's? and what should i do about sealing all the seams?

any help is welcomed!

I think you have a bit of truck stuck in your mud bro

~Ford Ranger, ext cab
Kenwood DDX470
1/0ga stinger wiring for big 3
1/0ga ofc flextech wiring

3 kinetik 800's

AQ2200 @1ohm

Sundown Audio X15

in a 27Hz tuned ported box

LE BUILD LOG!!!

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I used my quick clamps to hold peices together while a buddy kept me from scooting the box while screwing..also I pre drilled before putting the glue and screws down so I didn't rely on the quick clamps for too long.. By myself I might need those 90 clamps..

Get those cuts straight and enough titebond should seal it very well..

I read on here that 90's in the corners lose db's, and they r extra work...

Ps I used a bunch of screws too like every 5 inches.. afterwards I think I read more screws isn't the way too go,, but you should research that a little too..

98' dodge ram

140A alt

Big 3

XS D2700

JVC kd-r310

Rockford T500-1BDCP

2 Sundown E12 Ported 4cubes 35hz

Rockford P400-4

2 Infinity reference 3way 6x9

2 Polk DB 5 1/4

2x layer dynamat all doors

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I used my quick clamps to hold peices together while a buddy kept me from scooting the box while screwing..also I pre drilled before putting the glue and screws down so I didn't rely on the quick clamps for too long.. By myself I might need those 90 clamps..

Get those cuts straight and enough titebond should seal it very well..

I read on here that 90's in the corners lose db's, and they r extra work...

Ps I used a bunch of screws too like every 5 inches.. afterwards I think I read more screws isn't the way too go,, but you should research that a little too..

i did the screws like that on my 8" t-line lol im gonna space them a little more on this one. and i already have 45's to help keep the port constant already but i was just wondering if it was worth it to try smoothing them out more.

and i might see about getting a friend to come over and help when i start putting it together or something

Gettin some work done it looks like...... :)

yup! hoping to get more done in the next couple days! tonight im drawing all the lines on the biggest pieces to help get set up for putting it together

I think you have a bit of truck stuck in your mud bro

~Ford Ranger, ext cab
Kenwood DDX470
1/0ga stinger wiring for big 3
1/0ga ofc flextech wiring

3 kinetik 800's

AQ2200 @1ohm

Sundown Audio X15

in a 27Hz tuned ported box

LE BUILD LOG!!!

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personally I would have went with the 2 folded design for two reasons. First reason being is that a perfect transmission line would be straight and round (i.e. a cylinder). folding the t-line is a compromise to save space, so the less you have to fold it, the better it will function. Second reason being is that you want the mouth/opening of the t-line as far away from the front of the sub as possible (as far as I know from my research), I guess it helps with less cancellation.

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personally I would have went with the 2 folded design for two reasons. First reason being is that a perfect transmission line would be straight and round (i.e. a cylinder). folding the t-line is a compromise to save space, so the less you have to fold it, the better it will function. Second reason being is that you want the mouth/opening of the t-line as far away from the front of the sub as possible (as far as I know from my research), I guess it helps with less cancellation.

Interesting...I built two tlines for some cheapy 10" driver..it was louder in my room and vehicle with the port on the same face as the sub instead of coming out the side.

Also I htink earlier in his psts he said he wished he could do a 2bend...but didnt have the room.

MY BUILD *****http://tinyurl.com/gmcbuild*****

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Sold to:

Skullz - pstone11 - Leo1103 - Volvo 63' - pavelpardo - imnew59585

Shower farts still piss me off.

I think theyre pretty neat. When the water runs down your crack as you let one out... its like shitting in a crockpot.
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