snafu Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 So, whoever coined the term "Big 3" says to upgrade the following: Charge Lead Block to Battery Negative Battery Negative to Chassis Ever since then, car audio enthusiasts all over the world have taken this to be the gospel, but one of those cables has no use whatsoever for car audio applications - Block to Battery Negative. [see this thread for an explanation why.] So, why is it that so many are still doing this? Quote Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... 1.1k 2.1k 9
suckerfreebass Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 it may not affect anything car audio wise but if you unhook the stock on my vehicle it wont start so when i replaced my wiring i had to re place that wire just for car to start some cars must have this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... 8 287
bdog Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 i do the ground but to the alternator or close by Quote REP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... 106 1.4k
RCP Audio Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 it may not affect anything car audio wise but if you unhook the stock on my vehicle it wont start so when i replaced my wiring i had to re place that wire just for car to start some cars must have this your not meant to replace your stock wire, only add to it Quote PSN: Rcp_soundz Good rule of thump is go by what fuse size is being used in these amps. The higher the more amperage it pulls, this is what I look at. I'll stick a 300 amp fuse in a potato and sell it to you for $2k. 1991 Mazda 323VERY small build thread here: http://www.stevemead...23-small-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... 312 1.4k 1
suckerfreebass Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 (edited) i did a ground on the frame right by the battery but without the second ground the car wouldnt start once i put the stock ground back on with the upgraded ground it started so i just upgraded both my stock wiring was bad had to be replaced only line to starter an fuse box are stock now an it works fine Edited October 29, 2012 by suckerfreebass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... 8 287
snafu Posted October 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 Guys, of course this cable is required to start the engine! That's it's purpose. Last I checked, all cars came with one from the factory. If yours was "bad" then replacing it or repairing it is the natural course of action if you'd like for your vehicle to start when you turn the key. What I'm asking, is why are people slapping another one on a vehicle as part of the "Upgrade" ? Quote Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... 1.1k 2.1k 9
Sheena Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 (edited) Guys, of course this cable is required to start the engine! That's it's purpose. Last I checked, all cars came with one from the factory. If yours was "bad" then replacing it or repairing it is the natural course of action if you'd like for your vehicle to start when you turn the key. What I'm asking, is why are people slapping another one on a vehicle as part of the "Upgrade" ? i didnt when i did my big 3. i did alt pos to batt and batt to frame, then another batt to frame. EDIT: thats just how i roll, wrong or not, i gained .6 volts. Edited October 29, 2012 by Sheena Quote 09 Civic EX KDC-X395 (2) SKAR Audio VVX-12 Skar Audio SK-1500.1 4 cu ft @32 (new box and more port soon) Firing Forward not sealed off Stock 80 Amp Alt Big 3 In 1/0 Knu 2 Runs To The Back 1 Pos 1 Neg In 1/0 Knu DD-1'd 13.8v drop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... 278 1.9k 1
n8ball2013 Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 very good question. for as long as its been done its been done that way. I remember when hight output alternators werent as mainstream as today and super expensive and this was the end all be all of electrical upgrades. 1 Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... 15.2k 37.5k 314
DubNDodge Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 I thought that wire was supposed to be from chassis to block. Not battery negative to block. But I thought that it's overall purpose was to ground to the alternator. So you should just ground chassis to a bolt on the alternator case. Correct me if I'm wrong. Quote '01 Dodge Stratass Sealed Trunk Build Log 2008 Honda Fit Sport Build Log On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said: Anyone who says they knew everything they wanted out of life at 19 can go suck a bag of dicks cause they are lying to themselves or brought up in a cult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... 1.8k 3.6k
HJ Customs Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 Since my alternator grounds to the engine, I'd assume it would be beneficial to ground a new oversized cable to the engine as well. Plus the frame because of my grounds in the back Quote This is Hunter Johnson's Mobile Accnt 06 Scion Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... 0 49
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