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So, whoever coined the term "Big 3" says to upgrade the following:

Charge Lead

Block to Battery Negative

Battery Negative to Chassis

Ever since then, car audio enthusiasts all over the world have taken this to be the gospel, but one of those cables has no use whatsoever for car audio applications - Block to Battery Negative. [see this thread for an explanation why.]

So, why is it that so many are still doing this?

Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing
Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner!

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it may not affect anything car audio wise but if you unhook the stock on my vehicle it wont start so when i replaced my wiring i had to re place that wire just for car to start some cars must have this

your not meant to replace your stock wire, only add to it

PSN: Rcp_soundz

Good rule of thump is go by what fuse size is being used in these amps. The higher the more amperage it pulls, this is what I look at.

I'll stick a 300 amp fuse in a potato and sell it to you for $2k.

1991 Mazda 323VERY small build thread here: http://www.stevemead...23-small-build/

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i did a ground on the frame right by the battery but without the second ground the car wouldnt start once i put the stock ground back on with the upgraded ground it started so i just upgraded both

my stock wiring was bad had to be replaced only line to starter an fuse box are stock now an it works fine

Edited by suckerfreebass
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Guys, of course this cable is required to start the engine! That's it's purpose. Last I checked, all cars came with one from the factory. If yours was "bad" then replacing it or repairing it is the natural course of action if you'd like for your vehicle to start when you turn the key.

What I'm asking, is why are people slapping another one on a vehicle as part of the "Upgrade" ?

Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing
Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner!

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Guys, of course this cable is required to start the engine! That's it's purpose. Last I checked, all cars came with one from the factory. If yours was "bad" then replacing it or repairing it is the natural course of action if you'd like for your vehicle to start when you turn the key.

What I'm asking, is why are people slapping another one on a vehicle as part of the "Upgrade" ?

i didnt when i did my big 3. i did alt pos to batt and batt to frame, then another batt to frame.

EDIT: thats just how i roll, wrong or not, i gained .6 volts.

Edited by Sheena

09 Civic EX

KDC-X395

(2) SKAR Audio VVX-12

Skar Audio SK-1500.1

4 cu ft @32 (new box and more port soon)

Firing Forward not sealed off

Stock 80 Amp Alt

Big 3 In 1/0 Knu

2 Runs To The Back 1 Pos 1 Neg In 1/0 Knu

DD-1'd 13.8v drop

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very good question. for as long as its been done its been done that way. I remember when hight output alternators werent as mainstream as today and super expensive and this was the end all be all of electrical upgrades.

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1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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I thought that wire was supposed to be from chassis to block. Not battery negative to block. But I thought that it's overall purpose was to ground to the alternator. So you should just ground chassis to a bolt on the alternator case. Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

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On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said:

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