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my $.02 for what it is worth, and it may not be much.

but I think the word "through" when talking about the battery is the confusion here. The flow doesn't go through the battery, the flow goes from source to what needs it. If the car is running, the source is the alternator (and battery when the alternator can't keep up). When the car is not running the source is the alternator. When the car is running, the battery acts as a supplement to the alternator, supplying power when it can't keep up and "smoothing" the ripples in voltage (or current).

That is my best guess.

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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Update - I am all set up to do video on this. I am waiting on one additional part before I can actually begin shooting the video. Patience is a virtue . . . I promise it will be worth the wait. It looks like there is enough material here to do several videos. These videos will:

- Debunk the mystery surrounding how a properly functioning charging system actually works

- The role of the alternator and battery and their relationship to the accessories

- Demonstrate surface charge

In addition, I will prove that the battery negative is not the ground - yes . . . prove. In some cases, what I will demonstrate will be a direct conflict of what so many believe to be true so I encourage you to have an open mind.

Stay tuned . . .

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Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing
Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner!

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OK, this was a BIG project. The video ended up being nearly 20 minutes long after editing and it's in 720p. It's uploading to You Tube now - I expect that will take several hours. When it's complete, I'll post it up here.

I believe this video answers all questions I've raised. Guys, I'd like to make one thing perfectly clear - it's one thing to believe something is true. It's quite another to prove that something is true. If you take nothing else from this video, I'd like you to understand that you can easily prove most of the stuff you hear to be true or untrue.

Finally, for those of you that believe that car audio doesn't necessarily follow the rules of physics because . . . you would be absolutely incorrect. The rules of physics govern every aspect of it and we simply cannot circumvent that.

Stay tuned . . .

Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing
Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner!

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definitely still tuned

I think you have a bit of truck stuck in your mud bro

~Ford Ranger, ext cab
Kenwood DDX470
1/0ga stinger wiring for big 3
1/0ga ofc flextech wiring

3 kinetik 800's

AQ2200 @1ohm

Sundown Audio X15

in a 27Hz tuned ported box

LE BUILD LOG!!!

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im in complete agreement with snafu right now.

think about it, is you amp going to pull from the battery where the power supply is less then the alt? no, its gonna pull from the best possible source, the alt.

everyone is realy thinking to much about this. like he said if the alt is able to support the electrical of the car

a with the car off what does the current look like? from battery to what ever is creating a load return path to chassis, chassis to battery ground.

b with the car on what does the current look like? from alt to what ever is creating the load, return path to either chassis then alt or straight to alt if what is creating the load is grounded to the alt.

snafu, quick question. with the alt being the power source and ground while the car is running the reason to upgrade the engine to batt ground is to give the entire electrical system a better connection to the alt chassis? and wouldnt that be the reason why when grounding an amp straight to the batt that is grounded to the engine that is grounded to the alt we can sometime/usually have a smoother working electrical system and at time gain on the meter?

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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Battery negative to engine block would be a great upgrade if:

- A nice big one didn't already exist from the OEM

- The alternator didn't bolt to the bracket which bolted to the head which bolts to the block with a gasket in-between the head and block . . . etc.

Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing
Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner!

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Battery negative to engine block would be a great upgrade if:

- A nice big one didn't already exist from the OEM

- The alternator didn't bolt to the bracket which bolted to the head which bolts to the block with a gasket in-between the head and block . . . etc.

I don't know why you keep bringing up the gasket, Are suggesting it is an insulator? The head bolts go into the block and also touch the head itself, not to mention the 4 or 5 brackets tat bolt to the head itself and the engine block at the same time. Plus the whole thing is full of water. Regardless of all that, you have to have a ground from block to frame or something. You can't trust the motor mount bolts for a ground. I had a truck that we swapped motors in, we forgot the block to frame ground and it used the brake lines for the ground for some damn reason and boiled my brake fluid. No lie.

edit.

grammar>me

Edited by strangeduck
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Battery negative to engine block would be a great upgrade if:

- A nice big one didn't already exist from the OEM

- The alternator didn't bolt to the bracket which bolted to the head which bolts to the block with a gasket in-between the head and block . . . etc.

I don't know why you keep bringing up the gasket, Are suggesting it is an insulator? The head bolts go into the block and also touch the head itself, not to mention the 4 or 5 brackets tat bolt to the head itself and the engine block at the same time. Plus the whole thing is full of water. Regardless of all that, you have to have a ground from block to frame or something. You can't trust the motor mount bolts for a ground. I had a truck that we swapped motors in, we forgot the block to frame ground and it used the brake lines for the ground for some damn reason and boiled my brake fluid. No lie.

edit.

grammar>me

I would have loved to see boiling brake fluid

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
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  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
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  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
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  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
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  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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