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Charging Systems 101 - Video on Page 3!


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Battery negative to engine block would be a great upgrade if:

- A nice big one didn't already exist from the OEM

- The alternator didn't bolt to the bracket which bolted to the head which bolts to the block with a gasket in-between the head and block . . . etc.

I don't know why you keep bringing up the gasket, Are suggesting it is an insulator? The head bolts go into the block and also touch the head itself, not to mention the 4 or 5 brackets tat bolt to the head itself and the engine block at the same time. Plus the whole thing is full of water. Regardless of all that, you have to have a ground from block to frame or something. You can't trust the motor mount bolts for a ground. I had a truck that we swapped motors in, we forgot the block to frame ground and it used the brake lines for the ground for some damn reason and boiled my brake fluid. No lie.

edit.

grammar>me

Notice my first point. Of course you have to have a cable between the block and battery negative! However, every single vehicle produced has one. If it didn't, problems as you describe would be commonplace. My point is that upgrading this is not the best use of time or money to improve the return path between one's audio system and the charging system. I suggest you read my thread about the Big 3 for some insight.

Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing
Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner!

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Technically, you still have a ground to earth from your power supply, since neutral is grounded in the load center(breaker box) but you won't see that until you plug the power supply into the outlet. But good video just the same.

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Technically, you still have a ground to earth from your power supply, since neutral is grounded in the load center(breaker box) but you won't see that until you plug the power supply into the outlet. But good video just the same.

Can you prove what you just wrote?

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Correct, otherwise the power supply would not function. However, the neutral connection is not common with the negative terminal of the power supply - as evidenced by my continuity tests in the beginning of the video. The negative terminal on the power supply is simply the return path for any load connected to it, no different than the negative terminal on the battery.

Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing
Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner!

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Technically, you still have a ground to earth from your power supply, since neutral is grounded in the load center(breaker box) but you won't see that until you plug the power supply into the outlet. But good video just the same.

Can you prove what you just wrote?

It's really not that important, since there really isn't a "ground" in a/c anyway. It's just one conductor that is neutral one that is hot and some systems have a safety ground that is earthed. The power comes from one wire that alternates between pos and neg. Most modern a/c system should have neutral grounded. But this topic isn't about a/c systems.

Edited by strangeduck
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great video! ive actually seen a lot of your other ones before and great stuff! it's cool to see it actually tested and proved

I think you have a bit of truck stuck in your mud bro

~Ford Ranger, ext cab
Kenwood DDX470
1/0ga stinger wiring for big 3
1/0ga ofc flextech wiring

3 kinetik 800's

AQ2200 @1ohm

Sundown Audio X15

in a 27Hz tuned ported box

LE BUILD LOG!!!

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Battery negative to engine block would be a great upgrade if:

- A nice big one didn't already exist from the OEM

- The alternator didn't bolt to the bracket which bolted to the head which bolts to the block with a gasket in-between the head and block . . . etc.

so does the gasket act like an insulator? if so is the head bolts a good enough connection for in my case an audio system that will be bulling between 200-300amps of current with a 250amp alt and 2 xs d3100 ( or equivalent battery ) voltage sitting at about 14.4volts before the stereo is turned on and putting a load on it? or would it be a good idea in that situation to worry about upgrading the ground between the head - block - battery?

i would think it would be a good choice just to ensure a smooth flowing current since the electrical system would only be as good as the weakest point.

great video by the way, really enjoyed it and it help clear up how the battery plays a role in keeping up with the demand that the alternator cant keep up with.

Edited by alaskanzx5

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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Hmmm . . . all of that stuff you keep discussing - gaskets, bolts, etc. are really not an ideal return path. Take a moment to read this thread and you will clearly understand the correct approach - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/151155-the-big-3-upgrade-whats-the-real-benefit/

Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing
Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner!

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great video! ive actually seen a lot of your other ones before and great stuff! it's cool to see it actually tested and proved

Thanks - It's my intention to remove the mystery surrounding all of this. It's time we start working off of facts and not opinions.

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Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing
Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner!

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