Leo1103 Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 What's the difference? Any pros or cons to each? I've never powered my front stage before, and I'm looking for some info. 2002 Honda CR-VAlpine 9887My BuildRebuilding... Second Skin Damp 4 DC XL 15's 2 DC 5ks Singer 320 amp 6 cap banksSky High wire 2 VM-1's OM-1 all under window line Team DC Audio Obama has a law he's trying to pass right now, trying to ban Leo for being a threat to children everywhere.EDIT: Not in a JP kind of way. I thought I was going to die from all the jizz filling my ears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IH8PunkRok Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 one sounds good the other gets loud in car applications that is -Matt2005 Dodge Magnum RTJVC KD-AVX1 2 PPI S580.2 Obsidian Audio ST1 Horn Tweeters PRV 8MB450s Audio Legion 3500.1D 2 RE MT 18s 360 ah LiFePO4 BatterySHCA 2/0 155.2 @ 29 hzKicker CVR 15's buildDD 3512e buildMini T-Line Build(6) 8s BuildNightshade 15s Wall BuildMagnum AB XFL 12s BuildNewest Magnum Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdgarG0721 Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 If you never powered go components they sound great will be louder then what you have and it's less complicated for them to sound good. Pro audio need a lot of tuning eq, crossovers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armykyle1 Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 i have both. i have cadence midbasses and focal components right now. To me pro audio fills in the gaps that comp cant. thats just from my experiences A midbass driver is different than a pro audio driver.... If you have a massive substage, then you might need pro audio drivers. I ran two 3 way atomic sets up front basically one set per door and kept up with my sub stage(two 18s on almost 8k) Pro audio lacks the warmth needed to sound good imo. TEAM XS POWERTEAM HEAVY HERTZMy build- http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194454-e46-bmw-build-pos/#entry2914134youtube- http://www.youtube.com/user/armykyle1big build starting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamace24 Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 Pro audio is actually not at all complicated with the proper amps crossover settings. They will get louder and what i like most is that they handle more power usually. Try a set of say seleniums 6 and a pair of vifa tweets. Hpf on the tweets either by bass blockers or amp, and lpf on the seleniums with your amp. You can also run a hpf (set at 2000hz or so) on the selenium mids, along with its lpf(set at 125hz on amp). This is just an example of how its not really complicated and its cheap and loud and sounds good. 1st Setup(SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt Audiocontrol Epicenter2 Audioque SDC2.5 15 subs8.7 cubes at 37hz build DONEAudioque 1200d (Audioque 1200d Sold, similar performance to my ap1500)Diamond Audio Hex 6.5 Mids n TweetsCerwin Vega Exl 400 4 channel Bridged(also have MTX 4004 not being used)1 Run of power Knu Fleks 4 Gauge2 Cheap stock Battery setup2nd Setup (SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt Audiocontrol Epicenter2 15 Kicker cvx (maybe two SA 15 in future)7 cubes net tuned at 34hzAlphasonik Old school 1600rms (ap 1500d sold GREAT Budget amp)JBL 6.5 Power Series Components, Infinity Kappa 6.5 3 ways, and 2 Kicker KS Tweets (LOUD)Cerwin vega exl4001 run knu Fleks OFC 0 gaugeBig 3 done1 Odyssey 1500, 1 optima yellow top d31 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToNasty Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 i have both. i have cadence midbasses and focal components right now. To me pro audio fills in the gaps that comp cant. thats just from my experiences ***Super Sellers List***http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ds1919 Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 back when I was younger, i used to run only high end home audio (morel, dynaudio, focal, peerless, seas, scan speak, audax, etc) and whatever pro audio worked for what I needed, budget-wise. It defly takes more R&D to make it sound good in a car. Matching sensitivities with shunts, zobel circuits, etc. And those mids or bass mids usually need some sort of enclosure. They are not designed like car audio gear (voice coil windings, spiders, cones), and can distort much easier if not "tuned". Yeah you can use pro audio stuff, and they usually have a higher sensitivity, but its true imo that they do lack the warmth and sublties of today's comps, if not accurately tuned. And for car audio, you want no less than 12dB xover slope. A capacitor, which is by itself only 6dB xover slope, is not enough, unless you cross over at really high freqs, like 5k for tweets. Otherwise it introduces too much heat from lower freqs and the coils will fry, or the cones will get destroyed. Home/Pro audio in a car is quite a bit of work to dial in. When I was younger, I had more time and patience (ie, no kids lol). and I could not find any high end car audio stuff (early 80's). Now, there is a ton of high end car audio and they did all the R&D for us..... Another note, home and pro audio isnt designed for extreme conditions of a car. Moisture, heat, sunlight, vibration, voltage changes, etc, After a short time, you will notice a difference in the appearance of your door speakers-shrivled,etc. That was my experiences, but my car was not modern like today;s, so maybe its not so bad now.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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