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So frustrating. Please help me.


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There is just so much information and I have no idea where it’s best to start, therefore ill start from the very beginning.

I own a 2002 Volkswagen Passat with monsoon premium radio with cd changer wiring harness in the trunk.

My first set-up included everything factory (head unit, door speakers, factory monsoon amplifier, battery) but no cd changer just a harness.

I added a Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver and used the line out converter. I wired it in at the factory monsoon (FM) amplifier in the trunk and tapped in to the wires that go from the FM amplifier to the door speakers. I used the cd changer harness, since it turned on with my radio and had a ground source, to power and ground the RF-BLD. Then I used Monster 300 PowerFlex 4 gauge power and ground wiring for my Hifonics Brutus 1200 amplifier. Then I used Monster 402 XLN XTREME interconnects to get signal from the BLD to the Brutus. The Brutus powers a 10'' Cadance 4 ohm subwoofer in a band pass box, I’m not sure of the model or wattage. The BLD turns on with the radio and has a remote wire, wired, to the Brutus in which turns on with the BLD.

This set-up worked amazingly. The sub sounded super clean and had no problem getting loud and hitting low, with the amp volume gain barely turned up and the BLD set on unbalanced and turned the whole way down.

I went to go compete for the first time and broke the RCA connectors off the BLD while moving the box around in the trunk. So I de-soldered the RCA connectors from the input side of the BLD and re-soldered them to the output side. This was slightly faulty. Every so often the guts would move inside of the metal unit and short or something and the Brutus would cut out. But overall it worked well. But I wanted more to my door speakers and wanted an updated head unit.

The problems all start from here.

My new set-up consists(ed) with a Pioneer AVH-3500BHS DVD head unit, Axxess Interface Steering Wheel Control for the factory steering wheel controls, and a Scosche VW07SR / VW07 (select 2002- up VW CAN Bus stereo replacement interface with harness) and everything else remains the same.

I wired all the wires from the radio harness to the vehicle harness with the exception of a blue and white wire, label vehicle year. I’m not sure if it’s supposed to be wired to the remote turn on or not. This may or may not be an issue. I also wired the ignition source to a wire that comes out of the back of my headlight switch. The head light switch is lit up when the key is turned on; therefore I figured it was a good source. Any input on this? I also did the parking brake by-pass by using a relay. It’s wired like in the picture.( http://ts1.mm.bing.n...021672&pid=15.1 ) However, I dont think it works correctly. I have to turn it on to DVD then turn the radio off and back on to DVD in order for it to work. I’m assuming it’s because it senses a signal then off the back on to trigger the on off on effect. Isn’t the relay supposed to do this so I don’t have to? Maybe I have a bad relay? I also wired in the steering wheel control module but yet to have programmed it. For the Scosche and Axxess modules I used the headlight switches' wire as accesory turn on. Should i be using a relay to do this with that type of set up? Lastly, the cd changer harness is not being used anymore, so I cut the wire from the harness that I used to supply power to the BLD and also connected it to the remote turn on.

The Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver was still in the same place, connected to the turn on wire, grounded, has a separate turn on wire that goes to the amp to turn it on, and still has the speaker in for the line output converter.

Upon turning on the head unit to test it out I get a whining sound (making note, the car is not started, but is also there when started.) The lighting on the amp is dimmer than it usually is, and there is zero sound coming from the amp to my sub. I figured maybe it’s the BLD because I messed it up. So I took the unit out of the housing and hooked it back up. The noise is still there. I unplugged the line in harness for the BLD and the noise goes away, along with hearing the relay click. Now I really think it’s the BLD. So to save some money, I buy a Monster 402 XLN XTREME 16 foot subwoofer interconnect. I put the cable it in its place and the sub made no sound at all. I turned the gain the whole way up and the amp equalizer the whole way up and started to hear something. I turned the gain up on the Pioneer the whole way up and now I hear it. It sounds so distorted and doesn’t beat hard at all.

This is where I immediately became frustrated and got super stressed out. I can’t figure out why it would do this. I also can’t figure out why the BLD wasn’t working correctly. Should I spend the money on another RF- BLD and see if I can get it working again?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

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damn bro.......apparently you have some electrical knowledge. byt from all the tapping and upgrading you have apparently done something wrong. (which you know)do you know anyone around you that could helpmand look at what you have done?

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Wow, that was the sound of my mind being fucked

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going to church tried making sense of it all ...

? why did u use the headlight 12volts ... why not get accessory from the ignition should have been 5 inchs away at least on a 2012 :) 02 foggy

are u getting feed back on the Linedriver does it go away when you turn it down ?

just a couple cents quick

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Thanks. My buddy helped me out a little but he only knows a little on the electrical side. Im just introducing him into car audio. He can help me by looking over my wiring but we both cant figure this out. He too thinks its the line driver causeing the isssue but that doesnt explain why when using the the rcas from the pioneer to the brutus it sounds like shit and doesnt get loud.

Other than him nobody else help. I dont know anybody. But i live near pittsburgh, if anyone wants to help me out. =]

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going to church tried making sense of it all ...

? why did u use the headlight 12volts ... why not get accessory from the ignition should have been 5 inchs away at least on a 2012 :) 02 foggy

are u getting feed back on the Linedriver does it go away when you turn it down ?

just a couple cents quick

I used the headlight because it was easy to go to and easy to back prob. The ignition switch was a bit harder to back prob and im having trouble getting a wiring diagram for the ignition switch. Did i mention i work at a VW and Audi dealership as a technition?

Well something is definatly causeing this mess. Im not sure if it is the line driver. What do you mean feedback on the line driver though? And this whine is heard with the head unit volume turned on zero. No louder no quiter.

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Oh wow thats a lot.

Ok My idea of things to try:

For the noise problem, take the wire off your headlight switch, the dimmer might be causing feedback issues. Test it by rolling your dimmer switch t see if the noise changes.

Hook up the remote (blue/white) wire. I did a head unit in a BMW once where I forgot to hook that up and that took care of the problem.

Hope these suggestions help.

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Well i order another balanced line driver, hoping that i ruined the circuitry in the one i though i fixed.

Then i need to get this steering wheel control module working. I can program it to work, but i think when ever i turn the head unit on and off and on again, it has trouble working and causes my head unit to be faulty and laggy. It also doesnt work anymore at this point. I disconnect it and the lag and faultyness goes away.

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