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What can they handle?


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Nobody will see full power... Everyone has box rise.

Audio Build

Ride: 2002 Chevy Blazer 4 door

Head Unit: Pioneer deh-80prs

Subs: 4 DC Level 3 15's in a 4th order wall designed by Trent Choate and Jeff Smith

Subs Amp: AQ 3500.1 at wired at .5 (soon to be 2)

Mids/Highs Amp: Skar 85.4

Mids/Highs: Skar components

Electrical: Mechman 270 amp alt, 2 runs of Knu 0 gauge, XS Power d3400, 2 Deka Group 9a31

Build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167658-indianabasshead-blazer-dc-audio-4th-order-wall-build/


Perfomance Build

2003 Nissan 350z

Greddy Twin Turbo, 3" Test pipes with Borla high-flow cats, Crawford Performance Plenum, Greddy E-manage Ultimate ECU

Exedy Racing Clutch, Built Motor by Racing Innovations

Greddy Over-fender aero kit (1 of 20 ever made), 19" Racing Hart r5 pro wheels
466rwhp


Bike

2008 Midnight Blue Kawasaki ZX-14

Stretched 8" and lowered, Brocks Sidewinder exhaust, Power Commander 5

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They don't either, cause as different frequencies are played through the subs, the final ohm load rises, and when your final ohm load rises the amp doesn't output the same amount of power. One of the reasons you can't fix this is because music is dynamic, meaning it changes frequency and is not just a single tone.

Just hook up the AQ2200, it's a good match and will sound good. You shouldn't worry about how much power.

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The only thing I know of that helps combat box rise is running a Rockford Fosgate "constant power" amp. It's power output is almost the same from 1ohm through 4ohms.

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lol well i wanna be the guy that figures it out and makes millions lol jkjk n now that someone actually explained it then it makes since, you cant fix it because music shanges frequencies, but if you do tone test then you can fix it because the frequency doesnt change...now that wasnt to hard to do huh?

Edited by CarShaker4life

Team?????

Vintage 1971 Shit Stained panties

1 can of mace and whistle

2 pairs of thongs

10 holy condoms

Tube sock for extra protection

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Here is the simplest I can put an explanation.

Most amps put out rated power at 1 ohm reactive(ohm load with signal applied). If you are wired at 1 ohm nominal(ohm load without signal applied), you won't see full rates power from your amps.

If you wire to 1 ohm nominal, in reality, look at the amps 2 ohm rating and that will be closer to the amount of power you will actually see.

Now how do you combat this? Fighting rise is why you see guys wiring to .5 ohm. Now remember, wiring under 1 ohm will void your warranty with most companies. Also wiring below 1 ohm puts more stress on your electrical.

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Well you can't fix it really, but if you know you have the least amount of rise at a certain frequency then you can get the most out of your amps.

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ahh that makes since...so then in that case if i wire the lv3s to 1 ohm and cuz of impendence rise it will the closer to a 2 ohm load that the amp it putting out, therefore i could wire 1 aq2200D to each 15 and it would run okay, correct?!?

Edited by CarShaker4life

Team?????

Vintage 1971 Shit Stained panties

1 can of mace and whistle

2 pairs of thongs

10 holy condoms

Tube sock for extra protection

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