White Lightning Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Its simple really ... the fuse will pop in overcurrent, not because of voltage ... that's why they call them a "so n so" amp fuse ... Your volt meter monitors something TOTALLY different than what a fuse monitors ... I thought I made that perfectly clear with my first post in this thread ... Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zack_e89 Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 If you don't want to run fuses, that's fine. .....muwahahahahahahah 97 Suburban 8 custom PSI Platform 3 18's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 The Fuse is there mainly to protect your equipment from the battery. If something goes wrong and goes into overcurrent or a direct short happens, the fuse will pop when it goes past it's current limitations ... It does not care about voltage in any way, plain and simple If there is no fuse between your battery and your equipment when something like this happens ... to the battery, its like giving a kid all the candy in the store he can eat ... That battery source will give ALL ITS GOT until it dies ... something is going to give, and its not going to be your battery. overcurrent produces heat, things are going to warm up and if not taken care of quickly, something is going to catch on fire ... That is basic Electronics knowledge ... Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truconcept Posted January 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 im gonna be getting some expensive car audio stuff in 2 weeks ill be ordering 1/0 gauge wire from knu 4 the amps but ive heard bad things about their fuses 4 me 2 fuse everything right i would need 8 of them and thats not including the remote and voltmeters so itd be a little more than $50 4 quality stuff i think im thinking of getting a fancy battery terminal do any of them come with fuses built in? ive heard anl is the way 2 go but idk and yes, the risk of fire is a good reason 2 fuse but after 2yrs of running no fuses with no problems im wondering what would trigger this fire/wire melting? try 2 learn something new everyday, its good 4 u thanks 2 everyone 4 input The fire could start from metal chafing the sheath around the wire. (That's why you use grommets when going through the fire wall, so the metal doesn't cut into the wire)Once the wire is exposed to bare metal, it will draw extreme amounts of amps through the wire, heating up the wire red hot. The the red hot wire will burn through the sheath. Then set interior on fire and BAM. Car fire. Another case is if something shorts out inside the amp, it could cause the wire coming into contact with the metal on the car. Here are some good looking fuse holders. I bought 3 of them. They look to be the same quality as the lower line of shok. I will let you know how they look in person once I receive them. http://www.ebay.com/...-AWG-ANL-FUSE-H OLDER-/150916386387?pt=US_Car_Audio_Video_Fuses_Fuse_Holders&hash=item 2323514e53 thanks alot i appreciate it ur link doesnt work btw Its simple really ... the fuse will pop in overcurrent, not because of voltage ... that's why they call them a "so n so" amp fuse ... Your volt meter monitors something TOTALLY different than what a fuse monitors ... I thought I made that perfectly clear with my first post in this thread ... no u did not say anything about the fuse reading something diff than volts thats all new 2 me thanks tho disclaimer if your choosing not 2 read the entire thread: i have already said im going 2 fuse my upcoming build i have decided this because i learned that electrical fire can happen randomly with car audio and it can happen when the cars not on thanks 4 those educational posts guys **actin bad like a kid at six flags** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noel989 Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 WHY WOULD A VOLT METER PICK UP A PROMBLEM???? ITS A VOLT METER Build Log - http://www.stevemead...-cruiser-el-pt/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 You are correct ... I reread it. Sorry bro, my mistake Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DubNDodge Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 im gonna be getting some expensive car audio stuff in 2 weeks ill be ordering 1/0 gauge wire from knu 4 the amps but ive heard bad things about their fuses 4 me 2 fuse everything right i would need 8 of them and thats not including the remote and voltmeters so itd be a little more than $50 4 quality stuff i think im thinking of getting a fancy battery terminal do any of them come with fuses built in? ive heard anl is the way 2 go but idk and yes, the risk of fire is a good reason 2 fuse but after 2yrs of running no fuses with no problems im wondering what would trigger this fire/wire melting? try 2 learn something new everyday, its good 4 u thanks 2 everyone 4 input The fire could start from metal chafing the sheath around the wire. (That's why you use grommets when going through the fire wall, so the metal doesn't cut into the wire)Once the wire is exposed to bare metal, it will draw extreme amounts of amps through the wire, heating up the wire red hot. The the red hot wire will burn through the sheath. Then set interior on fire and BAM. Car fire. Another case is if something shorts out inside the amp, it could cause the wire coming into contact with the metal on the car. Here are some good looking fuse holders. I bought 3 of them. They look to be the same quality as the lower line of shok. I will let you know how they look in person once I receive them. http://www.ebay.com/...-AWG-ANL-FUSE-H OLDER-/150916386387?pt=US_Car_Audio_Video_Fuses_Fuse_Holders&hash=item 2323514e53 thanks alot i appreciate it ur link doesnt work btw Its simple really ... the fuse will pop in overcurrent, not because of voltage ... that's why they call them a "so n so" amp fuse ... Your volt meter monitors something TOTALLY different than what a fuse monitors ... I thought I made that perfectly clear with my first post in this thread ... no u did not say anything about the fuse reading something diff than volts thats all new 2 me thanks tho disclaimer if your choosing not 2 read the entire thread: i have already said im going 2 fuse my upcoming build i have decided this because i learned that electrical fire can happen randomly with car audio and it can happen when the cars not on thanks 4 those educational posts guys Fixed it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/150916386387?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 School wouldn't let be view ebay. So I figured that link would work. Because it said this __^_ url is blocked. So I copied and pasted that one. '01 Dodge Stratass Sealed Trunk Build Log 2008 Honda Fit Sport Build Log On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said: Anyone who says they knew everything they wanted out of life at 19 can go suck a bag of dicks cause they are lying to themselves or brought up in a cult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 I use fuses so that if one of the power wires rubs through and shorts out or something, it won't create a loop allowing the power from the battery to essentially flow unobstructed. Please use a fuse, for safety's sake. Put the fuse as close to the battery positive as possible. I made the mistake of not fusing something once and it was not a fun experience. It's not like you can turn off the car and it stops: it keeps going until you eliminate the short or your battery drains. It doesn't happen slow either - at least not in my case. Had some 14ga wire going to my volt meter short out and it was only 3-5 seconds before the car was full of smoke ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Only time I didn't fuse was when my 7.5k was only 6" away from my batteries, trying to get all I could from it. Oh, and my alt to batt 1/0 is not fused, but if that somehow shorts, i've been in a pretty bad wreck already LOL. Always fuse front to back runs at both ends. And now that im not going for numbers, all amps are fused at the battery and the amp, even though the amps have onboard fusing. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Oh: and unless you are drawing the most current your wire can handle, I'd say to use a smaller fuse that's only a slight bit larger than your current draw. Like my wires going to my volt meter (which are now fused) only have a 1a fuse on them. The big ANL fuses are "slow blow" fuses. Which means that they won't blow immediately if you exceed the current they are rated for. It will take a couple second. Think of it like the fuses for transformers - the transformer can short out and it will spark and be all nasty for a good 30 second before the fuse blows (that's the big bang you hear) ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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