LZTYBRN Posted January 7, 2013 Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 From a physics standpoint, a single ground point should have NO benefits over multiple, more convenient points, assuming they are all good grounding locations. In fact, if anything, multiple ground points should be slightly (negligibly) better under most circumstances. At the end of the day, the quickest run to the frame is best. for one, copper is way more conductive than steel. 0awg wire is .000099ohms per foot. so a 20ft run of 0awg will be .00198ohms. do you really think you will notice that? Depends on how much power you're running. But if you don't notice it, your wallet sure as hell will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted January 8, 2013 Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 maybe you guys didnt read this, they already showed us that the frame is a better ground. http://www.stevemead...-video-on-pg-5/ now with the frame being the better ground to me the shortest path to the frame would be the better ground and not a longer path to a single grounding point. on the other hand i do remeber now that its said that a common ground is better. at what point though? i mean if you have a rather small setup is it still worth the extra cost of wire? does a system under 2k watts benefit from a common ground? im sure the length of the wire would play a factor in it and every application is different meaning the best way to find out wich path is of the least amount of resistance is testing. what im thinking is that it is more so dependent on the aplication. meaning that if the best place for a common ground is 5ft away from one amp and only 2ft from the other amp you would have to test to see if that 5ft wire would create more resistance then grounding to the closest part of the frame. i was just trying to figure out if there is a general rule that we could find/come up with based upon the amount of power being used. he said in a low powered system it was better and the difference is negligible. plus everyone picks a different spot to ground to the chassis, some suck, but a run of wire is predictable. the most important factor is doing the method correctly rather than what method you choose. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted January 8, 2013 Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 maybe you guys didnt read this, they already showed us that the frame is a better ground. http://www.stevemead...-video-on-pg-5/ now with the frame being the better ground to me the shortest path to the frame would be the better ground and not a longer path to a single grounding point. on the other hand i do remeber now that its said that a common ground is better. at what point though? i mean if you have a rather small setup is it still worth the extra cost of wire? does a system under 2k watts benefit from a common ground? im sure the length of the wire would play a factor in it and every application is different meaning the best way to find out wich path is of the least amount of resistance is testing. what im thinking is that it is more so dependent on the aplication. meaning that if the best place for a common ground is 5ft away from one amp and only 2ft from the other amp you would have to test to see if that 5ft wire would create more resistance then grounding to the closest part of the frame. i was just trying to figure out if there is a general rule that we could find/come up with based upon the amount of power being used. he said in a low powered system it was better and the difference is negligible. plus everyone picks a different spot to ground to the chassis, some suck, but a run of wire is predictable. the most important factor is doing the method correctly rather than what method you choose. Brilliant.... And follow.. Quote SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted January 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 yeah they did say for 4k watts or less. still would like to see proof of if a single grounding point is better or not. Quote t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knowledge Posted January 8, 2013 Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 x2^ Quote REFF'SMy linkEBAYhttp://feedback.ebay...ck&myworld=trueI love car audio so much because I will never be done. I can never win, and I will never get it finished or perfect. It always has me coming back for more, I can never get my fill of it, but I get what I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meade916 Posted January 13, 2013 Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 i prefer a single ground point to avoid GROUND LOOP. It helps keep the noise out of your system. The frame, if your car actually has one, is the best ground in the car. Period. If you use bus-bars, its easy to power/ground everything to the same point. You should even ground your deck and processor/eq/xover to the same ground your amp uses if possible. I HATE engine/alternator whine and doing it this way almost ensures i will have none. Quote All SMD products + MORE available at my store here! https://wccaraudio.com/ Subscribe to My Youtube Channel! Over 1,000,000 subscribers strong! Turn on your notifications! http://www.youtube.com/meade916 Follow My Instagram! Daily live feeds from the shop, exclusive content way before it hits my Youtube channel...and little squares with photo's in them http://www.instagram.com/meade916 The Official SMD Facebook fan Page https://www.facebook.com/SteveMeadeDesigns/ Follow my Tweet (Twitter) http://www.Twitter.com/meade916 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snafu Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 Steve is correct. A ground loop occurs when current travels between ground points that have a different potential with respect to one another. IE - the mounting point of the antenna on your fender to your radio, from your radio to your amps via the shield of the RCA cables, from your amplifier to it's grounding point. The mounting point of the antenna on the fender and the grounding point of your amplifier are the ends of the ground loop - one has greater resistance to the charging system return path than does the other. The current traveling between them on the shield of the RCA cable can be amplified and reproduced by your speakers. The idea of having a single grounding point for all things audio related is a great starting point. But, what about when that chosen location is in the middle of a ground loop between two other accessories? As Steve also correctly points out, this is why it is preferable to use the frame for the return path for all things in your audio system - assuming of course you have a body on frame vehicle. From the factory, the frame in such a vehicle is not part of the return path for the stock accessories . . . Now, take all of this and look closely at my Big 3 Upgrade Kits . . . my Battery Relocation Kits . . . my Vehicle Grounding Kits . . . my Alternator Installation Kits . . . notice a pattern? Quote Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted January 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 These are the kinda answers I was hoping for. Thanks guys. Once again proven a good point to such a simple task. Quote t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 Well done. Accurate, correct advice, from the best. This place is on another level. Dig it. Quote SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meade916 Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 Well done. Accurate, correct advice, from the best. This place is on another level. Dig it. :) Quote All SMD products + MORE available at my store here! https://wccaraudio.com/ Subscribe to My Youtube Channel! Over 1,000,000 subscribers strong! Turn on your notifications! http://www.youtube.com/meade916 Follow My Instagram! Daily live feeds from the shop, exclusive content way before it hits my Youtube channel...and little squares with photo's in them http://www.instagram.com/meade916 The Official SMD Facebook fan Page https://www.facebook.com/SteveMeadeDesigns/ Follow my Tweet (Twitter) http://www.Twitter.com/meade916 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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