whazoo84 Posted November 21, 2016 Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 Biggest shit I did on a stock alt: Powerbass ASA1200.2X drawing a nasty 120A at full tilt. Hifonics X1200.4 drawing between 30-50 amps at full tilt. Walmart bargain 560CCA shitbox battery. 2 Pyle Blue Wave 12's In a ported box that was 2.67 Cu. Ft. to compensate for the magnets and baskets, this shit hit an easy 140db full tilt. Surprising for how these subs were just 50$ each. The subs got quite hot if I ran them for long periods of time, but never blew. Except for one, it got magnet rub from me tearing the spider :C. Alternator's stock amps was 100A, believe me this thing suffered. It couldn't even do that if I'm honest. The lowest voltage would be 11.1 at the battery. I got rid of this shit a long time ago, so it's long gone. Since then I've learned a little more and decided not to fuck around. Hence my Buick build. That I'm going to be doing soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpydreX Posted November 27, 2016 Report Share Posted November 27, 2016 Im going to contribute, but do not have all of the data your asking for. Stock alternator : 150 amps Battery: Die Hard stock size for car Amp: Crescendo BC3500d Big 3: NO Wiring: 300amp fuse- 1 run of 1/0 and one run of 4 ga. (when I was running the 1/0, I said well hell, might as well leave the 4ga there and use it. more copper=better The highest clamp I have done was 2100w which im sure is all my electrical system can support. Now at the same time, I did not clamp it at any frequency below 40hz, so it could likely be higher on a 35 hz tone around the tuning of the barrel. Note: When I first got the amp, I had only the 4 ga for 2 days, and was waiting on my 1/0 to show up in the mail, I also only had a 125 amp fuse on the amp, I could not pop the fuse, the wire would not let enough current go through to allow the amp to blow it. So technically the amp could have only produce approx. around 1,500w tops off that wire and 125 amp fuse. So, so far, off of my stock electrical, leaving voltage drop out, if i go based off of 12.5v, I've carried approx 168 amps to the amp. then if I went based off of an idle at 13.8, thats approx 152 amps. (again leaving out voltage drop) So in my theory, and very little recorded data, I can tell pretty accurately that I only get about as many amps as my alternator can produce back to the amp. Edit: Also, I am in the process of picking out battery power and a 300amp alternator for this season, Holyshit.... A BC3500 on a 150amp alt and stock battery?? Thats pretty impressive.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoberBrent Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 Stock alt: 70amps Stock Batt: 550cca? I think 4 ga Big 3. Pinoeer Gm9601 1200w rms Old sony xplod 40x4 Very very clean sounding amp. Love having a separate eq for front and rear. at idle I can pull it down to 10.8-11v. Going down the highway at 4k rpm it will fall to 12.8-13v I used to have a pair of red top optimas(free) but i now know why they were free.. They kicked the bucket shortly after i got them. Going down the Highway with no major winds I can literally feel the car slow when the bass hits. Normal daily driving my voltage stays between 13.8-14.8v Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRaGiK53 Posted December 7, 2016 Report Share Posted December 7, 2016 2003 Honda Civic 70 amp alternator 2 Group 34 AGM batteries DC Audio 2.0k Execution Audio 60.4 Drops down to 12.7 driving, 11.8 at idle (admittedly haven't played at idle for longer than 30 to 45 seconds). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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