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Here is the alternator i have. The factory was replaced with a re-manufactured one.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_alternator--remanufactured--105-amps-toughone_19210070-p

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SD, thank for the input. I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

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105amps is enough alt to run your truck and you likely arent getting that at idle. Add an amp to that and the fact that you don't even have big 3 done and your poor battery is taking a beating. You need to do at least big 3 with your setup, this is assuming your gains are set to where you arent clipping also.

When I had stock alt (chevy 105amp reman) and no big 3 with an 800-1000w amp and a yellow top I had to drop the volume at idle or the alt would burn up. At the time i was probably clipping a bit because i set the gain by estimate on deck voltage output and the range on volt input accepted by the amp. I didnt know what volume my deck clipped at but i always played at a conservative level. Still would burn up the alt at idle after bumping for a while.

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

Build Log

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Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db
Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
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So the alternator is charging when reading with a DMM 14.whatever and 16.8 at teh cluster... then the guage is probably bad. Ive heard that they are a common problem with these clusters. When I had asked a while ago, that you were charging 16.8v on a 12 volt system, I was making sure that you were typing in the correct numbers. If you were charging that high, then I would be on a 14volt system. Its your guage. Get a aftermarket volt meter and use that to measure

2006 GMC Yukon
Pioneer HU

SHCA ran throughout

Crescendo BC3500

One 18 AA Mayhem in a 4th order

ZED Levithian 6 channel

Rainbow Dual 6.5 comps ran Active
matt142-1-1.jpg
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/155628-matt14s-yukon-mayhem-in-a-4th-ordernew-amps-and-bats/page-3

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No with a DMM it was 16.8 and at the cluster. but the charger had shown 14.4 while the cluster had shown ~16. As i was driving home from school today, the cluster was showing 14.4.

[sharedmedia=garage:vehicles:2223]

CAFForumSig_zps376518ed.jpg?t=1364077982

SD, thank for the input. I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

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Use a test lamp between the battery and the B+ and start pulling fuses one at a time until the light goes out letting you know which circuit is causing the drain and letting you be able to trace it to what the exact cause is. I had a H/U that was drawing power with the key off draining my battery and once i used the test light to see which circuit was the culprit i was able to trace it down fairly quick and get it replaced.

01 Ford focus ZX3

Pioneer AVH-X491BHS

PPI PC 4800.2

Morel Maximo 6.5" x2

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Thanks for all the replies. i will try the test lamp tomorrow as it was raining today. :/ my dad and i have both done the same thing with a multimeter but failed to find it. i will probably try to do it when it is as dark as i can stand it out side in case there isnt a noticeable difference.

[sharedmedia=garage:vehicles:2223]

CAFForumSig_zps376518ed.jpg?t=1364077982

SD, thank for the input. I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

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i highly recommend you tracing your ground from your battery. relocating it or sanding off any grim or paint where it might be at. i had this issue on my mothers mustang, where the battery would slowly drain. 6 alts , 3 battery's and many days of tracking it down, it was just the ground becoming messed up some how

My build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/143943-2001-mustang-gt-system-rebuild-box-build-pics-updated-61512/

2001 Ford Mustang GT

4.6 SOHC 380HP

270 amp Mechman alt

2 12" Treo SSX custom built.

6.47 cu ft, tuned to 32Hz

2 hifonics Brutus 2400.1, strapped

1 optima yellow top

1 Kinetic HC1800

14.4v @ 29Hz, 2k RPM

over 100ft 1/0 XS flex wire

Big 3 in 1/0

100sq ft fatmat deadener

145.3 on music, 142.6 sealed on music

Stop being a pussy and wall it off.

I hate when my google breaks too

I think the usps must be ran by a bunch of drunk ass oriental midget monkey's on methamphetamines.
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Thanks for letting me know. I am probably gonna order some sk high 1/0 cca and do the the big three this weekend. While checking that at the same time of course. Thanks!

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CAFForumSig_zps376518ed.jpg?t=1364077982

SD, thank for the input. I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

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16.8 Volts is WAY too much voltage for a 12.6 Volt battery ... problem #1 ... 2.4 Volts per cell is MAX (14.4) ... in addition, a test light will not help you determine the exact current draw like a quality DMM will ... like another member said, the ECU in your truck will consume between 25 and 50mA ... if you can not measure that you need a better quality DMM ... or at least verify the internal fuse in the one you have has not been blown accidentally

Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing
Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner!

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I had the same problem with an eagle talon. turned out to be a loose power wire from the main fuse box that leads to the battery.

BMW 325i Kenwood KVT-647DVD

re xxx components

re 6.5 FR's

2 RE XXX 12's

2 US amps MD3D's

2 batcap 4k's

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