Bradprobert Posted April 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 Here is the alternator i have. The factory was replaced with a re-manufactured one. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_alternator--remanufactured--105-amps-toughone_19210070-p [sharedmedia=garage:vehicles:2223] 4th-order under rear seat build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/165708-4th-order-under-rear-seat-chevy-extended-cab/#entry2410477 SD, thank for the input. I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted April 28, 2013 Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 105amps is enough alt to run your truck and you likely arent getting that at idle. Add an amp to that and the fact that you don't even have big 3 done and your poor battery is taking a beating. You need to do at least big 3 with your setup, this is assuming your gains are set to where you arent clipping also. When I had stock alt (chevy 105amp reman) and no big 3 with an 800-1000w amp and a yellow top I had to drop the volume at idle or the alt would burn up. At the time i was probably clipping a bit because i set the gain by estimate on deck voltage output and the range on volt input accepted by the amp. I didnt know what volume my deck clipped at but i always played at a conservative level. Still would burn up the alt at idle after bumping for a while. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt14 Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 So the alternator is charging when reading with a DMM 14.whatever and 16.8 at teh cluster... then the guage is probably bad. Ive heard that they are a common problem with these clusters. When I had asked a while ago, that you were charging 16.8v on a 12 volt system, I was making sure that you were typing in the correct numbers. If you were charging that high, then I would be on a 14volt system. Its your guage. Get a aftermarket volt meter and use that to measure 2006 GMC YukonPioneer HU SHCA ran throughout Crescendo BC3500 One 18 AA Mayhem in a 4th order ZED Levithian 6 channel Rainbow Dual 6.5 comps ran Activehttp://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/155628-matt14s-yukon-mayhem-in-a-4th-ordernew-amps-and-bats/page-3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bradprobert Posted April 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 No with a DMM it was 16.8 and at the cluster. but the charger had shown 14.4 while the cluster had shown ~16. As i was driving home from school today, the cluster was showing 14.4. [sharedmedia=garage:vehicles:2223] 4th-order under rear seat build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/165708-4th-order-under-rear-seat-chevy-extended-cab/#entry2410477 SD, thank for the input. I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullz Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 Use a test lamp between the battery and the B+ and start pulling fuses one at a time until the light goes out letting you know which circuit is causing the drain and letting you be able to trace it to what the exact cause is. I had a H/U that was drawing power with the key off draining my battery and once i used the test light to see which circuit was the culprit i was able to trace it down fairly quick and get it replaced. 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bradprobert Posted April 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 Thanks for all the replies. i will try the test lamp tomorrow as it was raining today. :/ my dad and i have both done the same thing with a multimeter but failed to find it. i will probably try to do it when it is as dark as i can stand it out side in case there isnt a noticeable difference. [sharedmedia=garage:vehicles:2223] 4th-order under rear seat build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/165708-4th-order-under-rear-seat-chevy-extended-cab/#entry2410477 SD, thank for the input. I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostin302 Posted April 30, 2013 Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 i highly recommend you tracing your ground from your battery. relocating it or sanding off any grim or paint where it might be at. i had this issue on my mothers mustang, where the battery would slowly drain. 6 alts , 3 battery's and many days of tracking it down, it was just the ground becoming messed up some how My build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/143943-2001-mustang-gt-system-rebuild-box-build-pics-updated-61512/ 2001 Ford Mustang GT 4.6 SOHC 380HP 270 amp Mechman alt 2 12" Treo SSX custom built. 6.47 cu ft, tuned to 32Hz 2 hifonics Brutus 2400.1, strapped 1 optima yellow top 1 Kinetic HC1800 14.4v @ 29Hz, 2k RPM over 100ft 1/0 XS flex wire Big 3 in 1/0 100sq ft fatmat deadener 145.3 on music, 142.6 sealed on music Stop being a pussy and wall it off. I hate when my google breaks too I think the usps must be ran by a bunch of drunk ass oriental midget monkey's on methamphetamines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bradprobert Posted April 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 Thanks for letting me know. I am probably gonna order some sk high 1/0 cca and do the the big three this weekend. While checking that at the same time of course. Thanks! [sharedmedia=garage:vehicles:2223] 4th-order under rear seat build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/165708-4th-order-under-rear-seat-chevy-extended-cab/#entry2410477 SD, thank for the input. I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snafu Posted April 30, 2013 Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 16.8 Volts is WAY too much voltage for a 12.6 Volt battery ... problem #1 ... 2.4 Volts per cell is MAX (14.4) ... in addition, a test light will not help you determine the exact current draw like a quality DMM will ... like another member said, the ECU in your truck will consume between 25 and 50mA ... if you can not measure that you need a better quality DMM ... or at least verify the internal fuse in the one you have has not been blown accidentally Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertR Posted April 30, 2013 Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 I had the same problem with an eagle talon. turned out to be a loose power wire from the main fuse box that leads to the battery. BMW 325i Kenwood KVT-647DVD re xxx components re 6.5 FR's 2 RE XXX 12's 2 US amps MD3D's 2 batcap 4k's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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