fritosaregood Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Im sure the company would rather you ask them now, than wait and ask ppl who really wont know a definite answer. seller feedback: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=61719 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=68281 build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/index.php?showtopic=44800 Gf's build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/54346-kickergirls-camaro-new-box-pg-5/#entry753970 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Since it is a single alt set up, the ecu of the computer can be limiting the amount of power that it can produce. I know the newer chevys have that problem where it only allows the alternator to produce a limited amount of power due to fuel economy. I'm going to guess that is your problem. formerly known as Blue86f150 its a 4th order just because its tuned in the 40z doesnt mean it wont reach down and jiggle your balls at sub 30 hz frequencies. Regardless if they were dipped platinum and were stuffed in Beyonce's twat.....way too fucking exspensive this sux camel dicks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jg23 Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Since it is a single alt set up, the ecu of the computer can be limiting the amount of power that it can produce. I know the newer chevys have that problem where it only allows the alternator to produce a limited amount of power due to fuel economy. I'm going to guess that is your problem. i think thats only 07 and up 2008 TahoeHU-PioneerMids/Highs amp- sundown 200.4Mids/Highs- hertz xls, hertz ml 700, audison voce tweetsAmp-2 AQ 3500sSubs-FI SP418sAlt-singer 350Big 3 1/0 Build Log UBL My YouTube channel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Real96SS Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Shoot Kyle a message on here and he will be able to help you. Vehicle 2007 Chevrolet Avalanche(Co-Co) DNX9980HD 6 Team Fi 15's(King Edition) 3 DC 9k's 8 Nendo PWX 8's 4 Custom Steg 4" Super Tweeters 1 DC Audio 175.4 1 DC Audio 90.4 Rockford 360.3 3 DC Power 370xp Alts(Externally regulated) 21 D1600's 2 D4800's All SMD RCA's AudioTechnix Deadner Viper Alarm My YouTube- http://www.youtube.c...NG?feature=mhee Link to buildlog- http://www.stevemead...4-15s-2-dc-9ks/ Link to UBL- http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/165059-ublkings-avalanchecoco-new-build-starting8-king-edition-15-team-fis-in-a-wallyes-a-wall/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Going to chime in for a second here: I went over all his connections and they were fine. So it's no that. Also checked for belt slip and he didn't have any One of the things I've read about on some of the newer cars is they have a shunt of some sort that measures the amperage and the alt won't work right unless all the wires run through that. And I know the car does something funky where it will bump up the voltage to 15v sometimes while other times it will charge at 14? ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_racin4 Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 What style plug does it have Long 4 pin oval? 1998 gmc extd cab 12 crossfire C710s 4 SAZ-4500s 3 Singer 400A altsbuncha mids/highs Team Asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dereileak Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 I'm having the same issue on my mazda3, I have a Mechman 220 amp Alt, 110 idle, I could only get about 80 amps idle, and 160 at 3k engine rpm, and that is with the voltage dropping down to the low 12s, all 1/0 throughout, d3400 up front, d3100 in the rear, not sure what to do, missing out on a lot of power, should be holding at 13.8v @ 220 amps. I had to clamp it through both wires one at a time, the stock Alt wire and the 1/0 run from the Alt to the battery. Each was doing about 40 idle and 80 at 3k rpm, which is exactly what the stock Alt was designed to do, so I'm wondering if that has something to do, stock Alt is an 80 amp max. So the computer is regulating it down somehow... I need to fix 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd ManualPioneer 4300DVD2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub AmpKicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)Kicker KQ3 Active CrossoverKicker KQ30 EqualizerKicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -) 1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -) 300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker WireXS Power D3400 (Rear)XS Power D3100 (Front)Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Stupid Posted February 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 What style plug does it have Long 4 pin oval? No, small oval. 2006 Cadillac Escalade 2/3 drop on 28" wheels Two RE SX 18" subs RF T2500-1bdCP amp, 3531watts on birthsheet Custom carbon fiber sub box EVERYTHING else is stock, for now 149.4 @ 37hz, Termlab, dash, open window on two AQ3 18s all stock electrical, wired to .25 ohm on a RF T2500 148.8 @ 36hz, Termlab, dash, open window on one AQ3 18 all stock electrical, wired to .5 ohm on a RF T2500 147.8 @ 38hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on two RE SX 18s 146.4 @ 36hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on one RE SX 18 Link to my hack-built, stupid, carbon fiber wasting project.... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/149946-carbon-fiber-box-update-1494db-37hz-on-tl/ http://gifsoup.com/NDM3MTc1MQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Hey guys. I just bought a new DC Power 270a alt, internally regulated. We clamped it and are only getting 170a at 2000+ RPM on a load. The amplifier is drawing the voltage down and cutting off after maybe 20 seconds because it isn't getting enough power. All Shok 0-ga, big 3 done, D3100 battery with RF T2500bdcp amp on two 18s. Since you overlook the obvious, let me point that out for you. You have a 270amp alternator. You have an amplifier that draws 300amps max. You have a D3100 battery that is capable of 5000amps max, and can easily provide 1000+ amps continuously over the length of your clamp testing done on your alternator. Do you see where Im going with this? An alternator is not made to charge the batteries, its made to maintain them. The alternator will only work as hard as they need too. Your amplifier is pulling as much as 300amps of current on a solid test tone from such a big battery and your alternator is not going to need to work hard. You remember back in the day with discmans, and how you had that 30second antiskip? Where the CD is being read 30seconds ahead of the time then the music your hearing in your ears. Think of that big d3100 battery as the antiskip feature on that diskman, that battery is giving you a huge reserve time, where the alternator is not needing to work at full load. If you cant create the current demand needed to drain your battery reserves, then that battery is being a huge buffer in your electrical system (which is what they are designed to do). Not to mention that Im sure your d3100 is the battery in your rear, and you also have a stock battery under the hood of the vehicle, which is creating even more of a buffer.. Current pulls from the path with least resistance. Your rear battery has a shorter power wire running between your amp and battery, so most of your amps power is going to pull from that battery, before it even thinks about going thru that 18+ feet of power wire that runs to the front of your truck where another battery is. Another thing most people forget to do is also clamp your factory charge wire on the alternator along with your 1/0gauge power wire you added to it when you did your big 3 upgrade. That factory wire can support an add 20-50 amps of current, and if you left the factory wire connected (like you should), theres going to be additional current flowing there that is not being clamped. So if you want to officially get a legit clamp on your alternator you need to clamp all the power wires that are bolted to it, and you need to either A) create a higher current demand then what all your batteries can support, or disconnect the d3100 and wire your amps power directly to the power wire that runs to the front, and even at this point, your factory battery will still create somewhat of a buffer and hinder your clamp test results but not as bad as a d3100 would. This goes for any brand alternator out there, if you can not create more load then your batteries can support, or disconnect those batteries, you wont get accurate clamp results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trey_Dog650 Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Makes sense Brian. But how come is amp is shutting off from low voltage? 13 Kia Forte Build! 07 Hyundai Accent Build ***Super Seller*** N8ball2013 And then he gets to say ok all you guys were right. im sorry for being a dummy poo poo head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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