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set gain with multimeter


littlehitter

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So I have an audiopipe 1800d and 2 re srx 12 dvc 4s. Subs are rated 300 watts a piece. Im gonna find a dd-1 soon to find where it clips. Then im gonna use a multimeter to turn it down. The math is square root of watts times ohms right? Wired at 4 ohms gives me a bigger number than 1 ohm. So should I just wire them at 1 ohm just to be safe?

Current System:

Clarion CZ702

Stock 5 channel amplifier

Infinity Reference 4022i 4"

GRS 6.5"

Audiopipe 1800.1

2 RE Audio SEX V2's In a 4th order ported though the armrest

2003 130 Amp Toyota Highlander alternator

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Yeah your correct 1 ohm will be a lower number than 4ohm. Even better, how about a chart?

RMSchart-nodirections.jpg

* Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface
* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )
* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )
* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )
* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver

* One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL
* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement
* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling
* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator

* KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables
* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable
* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries
* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery

My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL

My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold

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This whole chart is a FARCE! Yes the math is correct and the ideal is correct but this ASSUMES a perfect constant resistance at a given frequency! So on a reactive load with drifting voltages and variable frequency this will not work. In other words a speaker is not a fixed load, your car does not supply a stable/ constant voltage and you don't listen to just test tones.

Yes a DD-1 combined with a good scope-meter will insure that you are not clipping and in the correct wattage range for your application!

1975 Oldsmobile Omega SalonStill Under ConstructionTeam Sound QubedTeam H-O Alternators / Team Kinetik AudioR.I.P Team US Amps

WHOOOOOOAAAAAAAAAAAAAA HOLD THE FUCK UP!!! I know your honey bun smugglin ass aint talking shit!
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I feel like the chart could be helpful at times. I mean yeah its not gonna tell you exactly what kind of output you are getting with impedence rise and voltage drop, but it is a good base number wgen setting gains. Its not like you are gonna screw something up using this table along with a scope/dd-1. Thanks for the replies guys, It was just bugging me trying to figure it out

Current System:

Clarion CZ702

Stock 5 channel amplifier

Infinity Reference 4022i 4"

GRS 6.5"

Audiopipe 1800.1

2 RE Audio SEX V2's In a 4th order ported though the armrest

2003 130 Amp Toyota Highlander alternator

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You're is getting it.

Yes, you can set your gains with that chart.

No, that chart does not have a way of telling if you've set gains correctly or if you're clipping.

Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?

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I mean if you use the dmm method for voltage you will.prolly never have clipping issues. W.e its rated at to set the voltage. You will never see that number anyway because of rise and music.it 'll be so far off as long as your h.u settings aren't crazy youll be fine.

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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People used to swear by that chart before the DD-1 came out. No point in not offering as an option. Is it the best option? No. Is it the worst option? Again, No..

Back when i had my DC PAI3000.1... I ran @ .5 ohm with the DMM method using that same chart. I didn't have any proplems and it was ran on that same amp since 2009.

* Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface
* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )
* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )
* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )
* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver

* One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL
* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement
* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling
* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator

* KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables
* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable
* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries
* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery

My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL

My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold

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You're not getting it either. No one is saying use the DD1, don't get caught in the anti SMD wave. It cannot and will not show clipping. Feel free to Google USAampfreaks post, of course you can use the chart. But if there are better options now, why not use them?

Last I checked no one still rode wagons. Technology changes :)

Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?

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