moh.vze.com Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 (edited) I am doing some rewiring and was wondering if the positive at the amp is one big block and vice versa for the negative. In other words, does it matter where the positive from sub 1 and sub 2 plug into at the amp's positive inputs? Diagram 1 Diagram 2: Method 1 (my old method) - I have twisted the 2+ and 2- together and ran them into 1 speaker output.Method 2 (trying to do) - I will wire each sub in series on its own up to 2 ohms (diagram 2). I will then parallel them at the amp (diagram 2) BUT my question is, does it matter which positive input I plug it into at the amp? So looking at Diagram 2, would it be bad if the negative orange and negative blue wire switch places at the negative input of the DC5K amp? Edited March 22, 2013 by moh.vze.com Quote DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 correct. they are connected internally. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ric006 Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 its just and extra + and - for the subs its still a mono amp so that would be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 They are connected on the inside. There are only 2 positives and 2 negatives for wiring convenience Quote ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moh.vze.com Posted March 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 (edited) Going to thread jack my own thread so I don't have to create a new thread. The box CJ18 built for me is tuned to 35hz. My old box was tuned to 30hz. Subsonic filter is currently set to 25hz. Should I set my subsonic filter to 30hz for the new box? Edited March 22, 2013 by moh.vze.com Quote DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacomaguy1 Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 doesn't really matter Quote Team Flex Issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 Going to thread jack my own thread so I don't have to create a new thread. The box CJ18 built for me is tuned to 35hz. My old box was tuned to 30hz. Subsonic filter is currently set to 25hz. Should I set my subsonic filter to 30hz for the new box? Play a 60-20hz sweep full tilt and adjust your SSF as needed. Quote ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 Your Method #2 is actually a better way to wire it up (assuming you're using the same gauge wire on both methods). You're dividing the current up on a separate cable run to each sub rather than pushing all the current through one wire. Less current through the wire = less voltage drop. Not that you'll get much with a fairly short cable run to the subs but every little bit helps. Quote This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 And.... OUTputs. Quote SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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