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Fi options and detailed specs


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I've never seen or heard of anyone using all thread before on sub boxes. Do you use large washers and bolts on the in and out to hold them rigidly together? I'd rather not have bolts sticking out the sides and top and bottom box if possible.

Just double up all around and brace around the center of the panels with thicker wooden dowel rods both screwed and glued if you don't want to use threaded metallic, that's enough to keep larger enclosures than what you are planning on steady. And sound quality does not depend solely on box stiffness, it depends in so much more.

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with doubling do I just glue panels together or do I use screws as well? I'll use some 2" hard wood dowells inside the box, that should work right?

as far as box construction goes, what else should I know to get the most from this guy?

nothing, gutted

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i believe their is a guy on here name joe x, he will do a box design for free, ask him about how it would look with just thread rod. have it roughly 7-8 cubes so its semi efficient, having a larger enclosure helps the use of less power, and result of reaching louder scores, but it takes alot of testing and tuning. Have you done a sweep see what the box peaks and what not at?

Jeep Cherokee 4dr -4.75 in front, new rusty's 4.5 in rear leafs -micky thompson 35x14.50x15 -locker rear -Rusty's offroad Engine/transmission/transfer case/crossmember/gas tank skid plates -Warn front bumper with 8000lb winch -Custom rear bumper -Warrior product tube doors (summertime) -Optima redtop (starter) -26XK miles and still runs like a bat out of hell

Kenwood H/U

1/0 wire,

136 amp alt 200 ah batteries 12.7 daily

2 Apsm 1500 @ 2 ohm strapped on zv3 d1 with ns softparts

Mb quart 125.4 wired to 4 aura 6's

3.6 cube box tuned to 36 plays down to 23hz

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i have not started any real world test on the box yet as it is not built. only torres and ISD. at this point im looking for better ideas of how to build so im going to make a new model tonight and put it up on here for you all to see and laugh at. when i get one that is not laughed at ill know im ready to bu

nothing, gutted

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it will be facing forward so it will be supported by the front screws only.

You'd want to use something a bit heavier than screws for a sub like an sp4. Like T nuts or socket cap machine screws and threaded inserts.

i shook this one kids hand and it just folded in mine. long story short i fucked his girlfriendso.. yeah..

You want this to happen to you? Give decent handshakes people.

I was gifted with an innate ability to distribute wholesale ass beatings in a timely and orderly fashion.
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I use #12 sheet metal screws from Lowe's. Pan head, non-self drilling. Predrill with 1/8" hole.

Never had an issue.

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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