mocrawlin Posted May 25, 2013 Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 doing an upgrade in the wifes expedition. the factory 8 inch sub went last week. so i did some research and ordered a kicker comp 8 with single 4 ohm coil. it is 100w rms, and the factory amp does 85w rms. so i figured it was a good match. well, after moding to factory sealed box to fit a deeper sub in it, it sucks! lol cant hardly hear it unless you are in the 3rd row seats. so, i read thru the book and it lists a ported box from .66 to 1.2 cubes. says .66 is for a compact build and the 1.2 cu ft is for a sq/spl build. so i built a 1 cube gross box (before sub and port goes in) and the book shows to do a 1.5x8x18 port in the .66 box and a 1.5x8x12.25 port in the 1.2 cu box. so, what do i use for a 1 cu ft box? i tried the torresbox tuning program and i cant figure out what im doing with it. lol can anyone tell me anything as far as what i need to put in the box for a port, for a daily driver. she listens to everything, rap to country. i have the pieces cut for the exterior panels, just trying to figure out what to do with the port. and is this even big enough after sub and port goes in? book doesnt say if it is gross or net cu ft on their sizes. any help would be great. i know it is not a mega build or anything, but we want it to sound good. hell the cheap home theater sub sounds better then the comp in the factory sealed box! lol and it an old magnavox with a 6 or 6.5 inch woofer in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamHT Posted May 25, 2013 Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 Well how exactly did you mod the sealed enclosure? In this case, if it were me, I would just keep it a sealed enclosure. Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocrawlin Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 had the heat the back up to push it flat to make the sub fit depth wise. and i do not want to stay with the sealed, i want to go with a slot ported box. any help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocrawlin Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 can anyone give me an idea as what hz to tune it to? i can figure the slot port size and length. i have never worked with an 8, book says resonance frequemcy is 40 hz. any help or info would be great. like i said above, the box is 1 cu ft before sub and port goes in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted May 25, 2013 Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 can anyone give me an idea as what hz to tune it to? i can figure the slot port size and length. i have never worked with an 8, book says resonance frequemcy is 40 hz. any help or info would be great. like i said above, the box is 1 cu ft before sub and port goes in. If they say you can do 1.2 cubic feet net, then do it 1.2 cubic feet net as the bigger box will be most efficient and it's possible since you are not going above 100W, tuning of 35-36 Hz would be ok. If you are willing to cut your wood again I can give you a cutsheet that meets the spec. The other thing that you need to bear in mind is that in a vehicle with 3 seat rows you are not going to blow the windshield with that small low power sub. Get a 12" on 400W and it will hit quite a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocrawlin Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 i can cut it again, have plenty of material here. lol right now i only have the 8, it is the wifes rig. when i get my car, i will be doing a couple 10's or a 12 in it. then i can get a lil crazier. if you can get me a cut sheet that would be great. my only issue is, the one i cut is 13.5 inches wide, and i need a box that is 12 inches wide. can go longer with the sub and port on one end. thanks. will pm you my email. thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocrawlin Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 well, i have no idea how to message you. lol let me know how if we need to do it that way. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted May 25, 2013 Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 is this still going to be hooked up to the factory amp? If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocrawlin Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 yes for now. plan is to change the factory head unit for an eclipse with navi in the future, at that time i will buy a small mono amp for the sub. and if she likes this setup i may go up to a 10 in there also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akrja_07 Posted May 25, 2013 Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 Was the original sub that quit working 4 ohms? I know you said you did some research, just throwing that out there... 2001 Chevy Silverado Ext. cab - Kenwood KIV-BT901 - 2x 12" DC Audio level 3 m2D1 in 4.2 cuft. @29Hz. - DC Audio 2.0k - Alpine Type-X components - US Amps USA-4300x - XS Power D4700 - Bosch 145a alternator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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