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the obvious thing to do would be to TUNE lower not use a larger box.... he should have the ability to due it that way which is the RIGHT/BEST way to do so

Obviously I wasn't on top of the right thread.... but I'd honestly not recommend all this for OP .... inexperience can cause a lot of mayhem in itself.... I'd say go for mid - lower side to be on the side of safety with all that equipment.... That's just my opinion

those specs are not posted anywhere

edit:on sundown website or SSA where they sell them.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164370-sundown-x-series-10121518-pre-order-eta-june-2013/

Scroll down a little bit and there ya - post #16 by sundownz....

Right here on the SMD forum...

he wants more lows so a larger box would be better..

Pioneer Premier P880PRS ll Front Stage: US Acoustics 4060 - Random speakers currently ll Sub Stage: Crescendo BC3500D - 15" Xcon sealed @ 3.28 cubes ll Electrical: - Kinetik HC1800(front) NEW***DieHard P-2(rear)

beaker- I know this sounds like a lot of anime bullshit, but it is true.

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Hell two subs on 3.5k will hit lows! Be smart and build a box when the specs are released and you have the sub in your possession. It's not a smart thing to build before you order/own the sub(s) you are building for.

b_350_20_692108_381007_FFFFFF_000000.png

Krakin's Home Dipole Project

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370

Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist?

I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself

but what has drawn your attention

in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums

An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space

Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears,

thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.

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those specs are not concrete as of yet. those are just his testing specs and never confirmed how they did

with the xmax being more i think he can get away with 1.5 per sub ported

Edited by Miguels
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the obvious thing to do would be to TUNE lower not use a larger box.... he should have the ability to due it that way which is the RIGHT/BEST way to do so

Obviously I wasn't on top of the right thread.... but I'd honestly not recommend all this for OP .... inexperience can cause a lot of mayhem in itself.... I'd say go for mid - lower side to be on the side of safety with all that equipment.... That's just my opinion

those specs are not posted anywhere

edit:on sundown website or SSA where they sell them.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164370-sundown-x-series-10121518-pre-order-eta-june-2013/

Scroll down a little bit and there ya - post #16 by sundownz....

Right here on the SMD forum...

he wants more lows so a larger box would be better..

Im sorry but im learning alot from you right now.. a larger box will give him more xmax for better lows and plus tuning a 4 cuft is easier than a 2cuft box..

Vehicle: 2005 Kia Sorrento Ex

Head Unit: Samsung Galaxy Note 10.1

Mids & Highs: Motorola KSN-1005s & Alpine SPR-17C Type R 6.5s

Speaker Amp: Sony XM-ZR1252

Sub Amplifier: Pure Audio 3000.1

Subwoofer: Incriminator Audio Death Penalty 21"

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I get the sarcasm and that's cool BUT .... you're telling me you know that going "bigger" will give him more "XMAX" which will provide more lows?

AFAIK .... XMAX provides more movement of cone i.e. more displacement of air .... or a bit more loudness .... not sure how XMAX correlates directly to ability to play lower ... but if someone can provide the tech explanation I'd love to learn

the obvious thing to do would be to TUNE lower not use a larger box.... he should have the ability to due it that way which is the RIGHT/BEST way to do so

Obviously I wasn't on top of the right thread.... but I'd honestly not recommend all this for OP .... inexperience can cause a lot of mayhem in itself.... I'd say go for mid - lower side to be on the side of safety with all that equipment.... That's just my opinion

those specs are not posted anywhere

edit:on sundown website or SSA where they sell them.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164370-sundown-x-series-10121518-pre-order-eta-june-2013/

Scroll down a little bit and there ya - post #16 by sundownz....

Right here on the SMD forum...

he wants more lows so a larger box would be better..

Im sorry but im learning alot from you right now.. a larger box will give him more xmax for better lows and plus tuning a 4 cuft is easier than a 2cuft box..

Pioneer Premier P880PRS ll Front Stage: US Acoustics 4060 - Random speakers currently ll Sub Stage: Crescendo BC3500D - 15" Xcon sealed @ 3.28 cubes ll Electrical: - Kinetik HC1800(front) NEW***DieHard P-2(rear)

beaker- I know this sounds like a lot of anime bullshit, but it is true.

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Well I'm just planning and designing I'm not building yet! But damn this is funny to read! Lol anyways thanks for the advice fellas, I might check back in once the specs are released, and I know it's late but here. :D also! Any more advice on an alternator? I don't want to overkill it so I don't wanna throw in any money that I don't have to.

null_zps60473582.png

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02 Lexus IS300 (2JZ FTW)

Mids/Highs: JL Audio C5 6.5s all around

Mids/Highs Amp: JL Audio HD 600/4

Subs: four SA-8v2s in 3.8cubes @ 32hz

Sub Amps: SAZ3k

Battery: Huge Interstate Batteries relocated to trunk

About 80ft. of 1/0 OFC....

Head Unit: Pioneer 4200NEX

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Hell two subs on 3.5k will hit lows! Be smart and build a box when the specs are released and you have the sub in your possession. It's not a smart thing to build before you order/own the sub(s) you are building for.

while im building my box off these specs and im going to be happy with it..

10 cuft box total

8 cuft =subs

2 cuft =port

Vehicle: 2005 Kia Sorrento Ex

Head Unit: Samsung Galaxy Note 10.1

Mids & Highs: Motorola KSN-1005s & Alpine SPR-17C Type R 6.5s

Speaker Amp: Sony XM-ZR1252

Sub Amplifier: Pure Audio 3000.1

Subwoofer: Incriminator Audio Death Penalty 21"

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A Zv4 10" being pushed into clipping on a Sundown 2500D at 1 ohm free air.....I do not see a problem with two of these on a Sundown 3500Dv2 at 1 ohm in 4 cubes....These subs have some serious mechanical power handling

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2011 Ford Ranger Sport 4.0 v6

2 sundown audio prototype nsv4 15s

crossfire 4k wired to 0.4 ohm

15 banks of maxwell 3.0 caps @ 18v

triple alts (x2 us alt 250's, x1 singer 320)

153 at 23hz

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You guys is bosses! :D

02 Lexus IS300 (2JZ FTW)

Mids/Highs: JL Audio C5 6.5s all around

Mids/Highs Amp: JL Audio HD 600/4

Subs: four SA-8v2s in 3.8cubes @ 32hz

Sub Amps: SAZ3k

Battery: Huge Interstate Batteries relocated to trunk

About 80ft. of 1/0 OFC....

Head Unit: Pioneer 4200NEX

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A Zv4 10" being pushed into clipping on a Sundown 2500D at 1 ohm free air.....I do not see a problem with two of these on a Sundown 3500Dv2 at 1 ohm in 4 cubes....These subs have some serious mechanical power handling

More like a Zv4 6" with a 4" surround! ;D look at that absolute beauty move!

02 Lexus IS300 (2JZ FTW)

Mids/Highs: JL Audio C5 6.5s all around

Mids/Highs Amp: JL Audio HD 600/4

Subs: four SA-8v2s in 3.8cubes @ 32hz

Sub Amps: SAZ3k

Battery: Huge Interstate Batteries relocated to trunk

About 80ft. of 1/0 OFC....

Head Unit: Pioneer 4200NEX

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