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again ... we're just trying to give proper info .... you're asking and we're providing.... bigger box adds efficiency to a degree... obviously too big will cause over excursion as will not setting SSF properly ... tune lower if you want to play lower.... 32-35hz should allow you decent output on mid 20's ... obviously you should model this in WinISD to get a better idea of the response it would put out at certain tuning .... but it's just a reflection of possible output.... your install will yield many differences due to air space in the vehicle and shape of vehicle as well... just food for thought

You guys is bosses! :D

Pioneer Premier P880PRS ll Front Stage: US Acoustics 4060 - Random speakers currently ll Sub Stage: Crescendo BC3500D - 15" Xcon sealed @ 3.28 cubes ll Electrical: - Kinetik HC1800(front) NEW***DieHard P-2(rear)

beaker- I know this sounds like a lot of anime bullshit, but it is true.

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the obvious thing to do would be to TUNE lower not use a larger box.... he should have the ability to due it that way which is the RIGHT/BEST way to do so

Obviously I wasn't on top of the right thread.... but I'd honestly not recommend all this for OP .... inexperience can cause a lot of mayhem in itself.... I'd say go for mid - lower side to be on the side of safety with all that equipment.... That's just my opinion

those specs are not posted anywhere

edit:on sundown website or SSA where they sell them.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164370-sundown-x-series-10121518-pre-order-eta-june-2013/

Scroll down a little bit and there ya - post #16 by sundownz....

Right here on the SMD forum...

he wants more lows so a larger box would be better..

Im sorry but im learning alot from you right now.. a larger box will give him more xmax for better lows and plus tuning a 4 cuft is easier than a 2cuft box..

how so? the Fi Q has the xmax of 28mm and have no problem getting low

it has to do with the tuning. bigger box is more efficient which will get you louder with less power not hit lower notes

it easier to tune a bigger box lower than a smaller box and to hit lower notes 25hz> you need xmax and air. a bigger box is going to allow for more xmax to produce the lows needed to be louder.. to do it with a small box you will need more power..

Vehicle: 2005 Kia Sorrento Ex

Head Unit: Samsung Galaxy Note 10.1

Mids & Highs: Motorola KSN-1005s & Alpine SPR-17C Type R 6.5s

Speaker Amp: Sony XM-ZR1252

Sub Amplifier: Pure Audio 3000.1

Subwoofer: Incriminator Audio Death Penalty 21"

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the obvious thing to do would be to TUNE lower not use a larger box.... he should have the ability to due it that way which is the RIGHT/BEST way to do so

Obviously I wasn't on top of the right thread.... but I'd honestly not recommend all this for OP .... inexperience can cause a lot of mayhem in itself.... I'd say go for mid - lower side to be on the side of safety with all that equipment.... That's just my opinion

those specs are not posted anywhere

edit:on sundown website or SSA where they sell them.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164370-sundown-x-series-10121518-pre-order-eta-june-2013/

Scroll down a little bit and there ya - post #16 by sundownz....

Right here on the SMD forum...

he wants more lows so a larger box would be better..

Im sorry but im learning alot from you right now.. a larger box will give him more xmax for better lows and plus tuning a 4 cuft is easier than a 2cuft box..

All having a larger box does is relieve the driver of some of the back pressure pushing back at it causing less control over the linear motion. You lose control over the sub also by playing below tuning which is why it is recommended to set your subsonic filter as close to tuning as possible. When you lose control you run the risk of damage: such as the coil rubbing and bottoming out.

I would suggest you to sit back, don't touch any equipment, read much more of the forums, and ask educated questions related to box design and a system's electrical.

Hell two subs on 3.5k will hit lows! Be smart and build a box when the specs are released and you have the sub in your possession. It's not a smart thing to build before you order/own the sub(s) you are building for.

while im building my box off these specs and im going to be happy with it..

10 cuft box total

8 cuft =subs

2 cuft =port

If your using 10's or 12's send me your motors after you blow them.

b_350_20_692108_381007_FFFFFF_000000.png

Krakin's Home Dipole Project

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370

Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist?

I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself

but what has drawn your attention

in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums

An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space

Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears,

thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.

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the obvious thing to do would be to TUNE lower not use a larger box.... he should have the ability to due it that way which is the RIGHT/BEST way to do so

Obviously I wasn't on top of the right thread.... but I'd honestly not recommend all this for OP .... inexperience can cause a lot of mayhem in itself.... I'd say go for mid - lower side to be on the side of safety with all that equipment.... That's just my opinion

those specs are not posted anywhere

edit:on sundown website or SSA where they sell them.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164370-sundown-x-series-10121518-pre-order-eta-june-2013/

Scroll down a little bit and there ya - post #16 by sundownz....

Right here on the SMD forum...

he wants more lows so a larger box would be better..

Im sorry but im learning alot from you right now.. a larger box will give him more xmax for better lows and plus tuning a 4 cuft is easier than a 2cuft box..

All having a larger box does is relieve the driver of some of the back pressure pushing back at it causing less control over the linear motion. You lose control over the sub also by playing below tuning which is why it is recommended to set your subsonic filter as close to tuning as possible. When you lose control you run the risk of damage: such as the coil rubbing and bottoming out.

I would suggest you to sit back, don't touch any equipment, read much more of the forums, and ask educated questions related to box design and a system's electrical.

Hell two subs on 3.5k will hit lows! Be smart and build a box when the specs are released and you have the sub in your possession. It's not a smart thing to build before you order/own the sub(s) you are building for.

while im building my box off these specs and im going to be happy with it..

10 cuft box total

8 cuft =subs

2 cuft =port

If your using 10's or 12's send me your motors after you blow them.

im done..lol.. and its for 2 15's

Vehicle: 2005 Kia Sorrento Ex

Head Unit: Samsung Galaxy Note 10.1

Mids & Highs: Motorola KSN-1005s & Alpine SPR-17C Type R 6.5s

Speaker Amp: Sony XM-ZR1252

Sub Amplifier: Pure Audio 3000.1

Subwoofer: Incriminator Audio Death Penalty 21"

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Good then you might invest some time in research.

b_350_20_692108_381007_FFFFFF_000000.png

Krakin's Home Dipole Project

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370

Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist?

I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself

but what has drawn your attention

in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums

An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space

Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears,

thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the obvious thing to do would be to TUNE lower not use a larger box.... he should have the ability to due it that way which is the RIGHT/BEST way to do so

Obviously I wasn't on top of the right thread.... but I'd honestly not recommend all this for OP .... inexperience can cause a lot of mayhem in itself.... I'd say go for mid - lower side to be on the side of safety with all that equipment.... That's just my opinion

those specs are not posted anywhere

edit:on sundown website or SSA where they sell them.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164370-sundown-x-series-10121518-pre-order-eta-june-2013/

Scroll down a little bit and there ya - post #16 by sundownz....

Right here on the SMD forum...

he wants more lows so a larger box would be better..

Im sorry but im learning alot from you right now.. a larger box will give him more xmax for better lows and plus tuning a 4 cuft is easier than a 2cuft box..

how so? the Fi Q has the xmax of 28mm and have no problem getting low

it has to do with the tuning. bigger box is more efficient which will get you louder with less power not hit lower notes

it easier to tune a bigger box lower than a smaller box and to hit lower notes 25hz> you need xmax and air. a bigger box is going to allow for more xmax to produce the lows needed to be louder.. to do it with a small box you will need more power..

wizard_eh.jpg

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Pioneer Premier P880PRS ll Front Stage: US Acoustics 4060 - Random speakers currently ll Sub Stage: Crescendo BC3500D - 15" Xcon sealed @ 3.28 cubes ll Electrical: - Kinetik HC1800(front) NEW***DieHard P-2(rear)

beaker- I know this sounds like a lot of anime bullshit, but it is true.

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I would suggest you to sit back, don't touch any equipment, read much more of the forums, and ask educated questions related to box design and a systems electrical.

Krakin I've tried reading up and posting threads, asking questions and I always get different answers. Always. I asked what size alternator I should get, some people said 250 with 3 batteries, some said 270 with a couple batteries, a lot said a 370 with 4 batteries cause they like overkill. What's your OPINION on what I need? I know that there are always debates, thats why i want an opinion. You know what I'll be running.

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02 Lexus IS300 (2JZ FTW)

Mids/Highs: JL Audio C5 6.5s all around

Mids/Highs Amp: JL Audio HD 600/4

Subs: four SA-8v2s in 3.8cubes @ 32hz

Sub Amps: SAZ3k

Battery: Huge Interstate Batteries relocated to trunk

About 80ft. of 1/0 OFC....

Head Unit: Pioneer 4200NEX

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Obviously I wasn't on top of the right thread.... but I'd honestly not recommend all this for OP .... inexperience can cause a lot of mayhem in itself.... I'd say go for mid - lower side to be on the side of safety with all that equipment.... That's just my opinion

those specs are not posted anywhere

edit:on sundown website or SSA where they sell them.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164370-sundown-x-series-10121518-pre-order-eta-june-2013/

Scroll down a little bit and there ya - post #16 by sundownz....

Right here on the SMD forum...

he wants more lows so a larger box would be better..

Larger box = higher peak in response curve

Smaller = has a flatter curve.

Shit changes depending on every vehicle.

Just because its big doesn't mean it hits the lows or small hits the highs, thats with port tuning. Unles you get excessively small or large. For daily I would bet the OP would be happy with something on the smaller side because it would be more musical.

The subs will do fine in a big enclosure on over rated power, look at the mechanical travel they have when he tests them free air on over rated.

If the OP wants the Lows, he clearly shoudl do a 18th order reflex bandpass with quatrro ports and double coupling loading walls.

In all seriousness I would lov eto see one of those new sundowns in a 1/4 wave/Tline build with all that excursion and the fact that they can take almost rated free air without bottoming.

I was seriously contemplating it before I decided to give away my Tline, tuned to high 20's it was surprising with 1 vvx10, one of the z4 10's on around 2k would get down.

Edited by Chris Hammer

MY BUILD *****http://tinyurl.com/gmcbuild*****

Vehicles

2005 GMC Canyon

CB1000r - Currently where any future funds are going. (exhasut,bazzaz, ohlins shock, screen, etc.)

crf250r - Used to be race bike..now I just trail ride..practice at the track on it.

CH80 - Daily beater (when nice weather)best 150$ ever spent. 100+mpg

Sold to:

Skullz - pstone11 - Leo1103 - Volvo 63' - pavelpardo - imnew59585

Shower farts still piss me off.

I think theyre pretty neat. When the water runs down your crack as you let one out... its like shitting in a crockpot.
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I would suggest you to sit back, don't touch any equipment, read much more of the forums, and ask educated questions related to box design and a systems electrical.

Krakin I've tried reading up and posting threads, asking questions and I always get different answers. Always. I asked what size alternator I should get, some people said 250 with 3 batteries, some said 270 with a couple batteries, a lot said a 370 with 4 batteries cause they like overkill. What's your OPINION on what I need? I know that there are always debates, thats why i want an opinion. You know what I'll be running.

I currently haven't gotten into changing the alternator in my truck yet so I'm not going to give a direct answer on what you should get. I have not heard anything bad about Mike and his products. As for battieries those are nice as a "safety net" to try and keep from damaging some equipment. But too many batteries for an alternator becomes a strain. Because just like the amp a battery is another component of the circuit.

If I am wrong on any of that and anyone has anything that they would like to add/critique please do so, just please have a way of explaining it well of some sort of proof just for all viewers to get a better understanding of this topic.

I would study up on Ohm's and Kirchhoff 's laws for circuits, mainly Ohm's I'm a little weak on Kirchoff since my electrical course focused on Ohm's.

Some starting points. I know that Wikipedia can be somewhat overwhelming on some topics, but anything you don't fully understand, google doesn't have closing hours or breaks.

Ohm's Law:

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm's_law

Kirchoff's Law:

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kirchhoff's_circuit_laws

b_350_20_692108_381007_FFFFFF_000000.png

Krakin's Home Dipole Project

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370

Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist?

I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself

but what has drawn your attention

in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums

An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space

Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears,

thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.

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