ShadeTreeMechanic Posted April 19, 2017 Report Share Posted April 19, 2017 That poor driveshaft will never be the same. Lol 1 Quote 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bighossf150 Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 1 Quote Used to have a loud truck 2009 Corvette Z06, H/C/I, 150 shot, g force tune, 730rwhp/690rwtq 2013 F-150 limited, MPT Tune, leveled on 35"s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3vil Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 (edited) The little propane argument in the Recent Purchase thread got me feelin a King of the Hill vibe. Edited April 20, 2017 by 3vil 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ahmed Johnson Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boomintahoe Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 On 4/17/2017 at 9:46 AM, rocking.that.eclipse said: When you're tired of screwing into wood on your box you make these.... Studs that go through baskets and this will bolt through baffle. Perks of working with CAD every day and having access to CNCs at work Meh, it is a good idea but basket diameters changed constantly. I've always had good luck with spiked t-nuts and matching allenhead bolts. Loosen and tighten all day long. The problem is most people have a strongarm hence why the t0nuts don't always work out for them. Or just too rough. Wouldn't mind seeing a pic or two of the protype final stages assembled. Or hell, make a vid then throw it up on youtube for the world to see. You might even start small side work doing those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 The basket diameter wont matter so much since he is making them for his subs, and not making them to reproduce and sell, so as long as his measurements are good, their should be no issue. No matter what with t-nuts, the constant torque from woofers being installed and removed will oblong the holes where the spikes dig in since metal is stronger than mdf, "birch" plywood people use. I used some t-nuts in my skates to mount the plates and was even skeptical doing that, but since I wont be removing the plates from the boots repeatedly there shouldnt be an issue. Insert nuts imo are by far superior than t-nuts, for mounting woofers, or beauty panels, or anything that may see a lot of in and out. Plus you can drop a couple drops of epoxy on them before screwing them in, and you will strip out the bit long before the insert nuts thinks of budging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ahmed Johnson Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ahmed Johnson Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 5 Quote That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocking.that.eclipse Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 8 hours ago, audiofanaticz said: The basket diameter wont matter so much since he is making them for his subs, and not making them to reproduce and sell, so as long as his measurements are good, their should be no issue. No matter what with t-nuts, the constant torque from woofers being installed and removed will oblong the holes where the spikes dig in since metal is stronger than mdf, "birch" plywood people use. I used some t-nuts in my skates to mount the plates and was even skeptical doing that, but since I wont be removing the plates from the boots repeatedly there shouldnt be an issue. Insert nuts imo are by far superior than t-nuts, for mounting woofers, or beauty panels, or anything that may see a lot of in and out. Plus you can drop a couple drops of epoxy on them before screwing them in, and you will strip out the bit long before the insert nuts thinks of budging. Only thing I would suggest with with threaded inserts is to not use a cheap screw for them. I used a 18-8 Stainless Socket Head Button Screw and a lot of them stripped out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.