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13 minutes ago, never knows best said:

a hand full of t-nuts would accomplish the same goal for maybe 1% of the cost....  not to mention the huge waist of material and machine time-

 

or am I missing something? 

I used threaded inserts last year (basically a stronger alternative to t-nuts) and i broke 1 basket and had to literally dismantle my baffles to get the subs out. 

 

I decided this year to personally not flush mount and just screw into the wood....

 

 

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5 minutes ago, Skullz said:

That mounts outside of the box, and not inside like you might be thinking of.

When i was into model aircraft i would use aircraft grade plywood laminated to 1/2" thick and would drill a pilot hole and run a screw through it and then use thin CA glue on the threads to act like they were metal after the application, the pieces were usually 1" x 2" CA glued to the bottom of the baffle, very effective and never had one strip.

lol, I dont know how anyone would think it mounts to the inside of the box being one piece lol

 

5 minutes ago, Lbox88 said:

T-Nuts have been known to rip out and then you have a sub hung up on 1-8 bolts depending on how many ripped out. Not the worst deal if you have access to the back from another sub cutout, but if you only have one sub per chamber there's not a lot of options to how to fix it.

I sandwich the t-nuts between the first and second baffle to prevent what you are talking about.

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2 minutes ago, rocking.that.eclipse said:

I used threaded inserts last year (basically a stronger alternative to t-nuts) and i broke 1 basket and had to literally dismantle my baffles to get the subs out. 

 

I decided this year to personally not flush mount and just screw into the wood....

 

 

gotcha, still i would consider dividing it into several pieces to cut material costs and then mounting to the inside of the box.... but to each their own-

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