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That poor driveshaft will never be the same. Lol

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91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

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Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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On 4/17/2017 at 9:46 AM, rocking.that.eclipse said:

When you're tired of screwing into wood on your box you make these....

 

Studs that go through baskets and this will bolt through baffle. Perks of working with CAD every day and having access to CNCs at work

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Meh, it is a good idea but basket diameters changed constantly. I've always had good luck with spiked t-nuts and matching allenhead bolts. Loosen and tighten all day long. The problem is most people have a strongarm hence why the t0nuts don't always work out for them. Or just too rough.

Wouldn't mind seeing a pic or two of the protype final stages assembled. Or hell, make a vid then throw it up on youtube for the world to see. You might even start small side work doing those.

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The basket diameter wont matter so much since he is making them for his subs, and not making them to reproduce and sell, so as long as his measurements are good, their should be no issue.

No matter what with t-nuts, the constant torque from woofers being installed and removed will oblong the holes where the spikes dig in since metal is stronger than mdf, "birch" plywood people use.

I used some t-nuts in my skates to mount the plates and was even skeptical doing that, but since I wont be removing the plates from the boots repeatedly there shouldnt be an issue.

Insert nuts imo are by far superior than t-nuts, for mounting woofers, or beauty panels, or anything that may see a lot of in and out. Plus you can drop a couple drops of epoxy on them before screwing them in, and you will strip out the bit long before the insert nuts thinks of budging.

 

 

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8 hours ago, audiofanaticz said:

The basket diameter wont matter so much since he is making them for his subs, and not making them to reproduce and sell, so as long as his measurements are good, their should be no issue.

No matter what with t-nuts, the constant torque from woofers being installed and removed will oblong the holes where the spikes dig in since metal is stronger than mdf, "birch" plywood people use.

I used some t-nuts in my skates to mount the plates and was even skeptical doing that, but since I wont be removing the plates from the boots repeatedly there shouldnt be an issue.

Insert nuts imo are by far superior than t-nuts, for mounting woofers, or beauty panels, or anything that may see a lot of in and out. Plus you can drop a couple drops of epoxy on them before screwing them in, and you will strip out the bit long before the insert nuts thinks of budging.

Only thing I would suggest with with threaded inserts is to not use a cheap screw for them. I used a 18-8 Stainless Socket Head Button Screw and a lot of them stripped out

 

1349713160_rte.png
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