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Glue only or did you nail/staple or screw it as well?

Only glue. I had pocket holes drilled, but wasn't getting the screws to bite and grab like I needed them to so I scrapped that idea and just glued.

Looks like I'll probly be trying to retrofit some screws back into the baffle now.

Plus some other things to strengthen it.

In the future, if I ever have another angled baffle, I'll be designing it with more stability then just a glue joint.

I figured a glued double baffle would be sufficient, but I clearly underestimated what 5000W of DC power can do...

;)

Ahh thats the issue. Glue by itself is not quite enough. Even brad nails are better that nothing. But you want something to help hold it. Another option when you cant use screws is those little wood dials that you drill for and insert. That at least gives some support. But if it were me I'd add some steel ;)

HA! Your Cruiser wall has so much steel that it could be used as a roll cage! ;)

I wish I had the room for some steel, but it wouldn't incorporate well with some of the features I'm trying to add.

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TB3 sucks imo.

I've torn apart boxes with it, doesn't work nearly as good as TB2 imo.

Interesting point.

I may have to try some out instead of the TB3.

Waterproofing shouldn't be an issue inside my trunk.

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2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

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TB3 sucks imo.

I've torn apart boxes with it, doesn't work nearly as good as TB2 imo.

Interesting point.

I may have to try some out instead of the TB3.

Waterproofing shouldn't be an issue inside my trunk.

I doesn't seem to bond the wood as good.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Oh yeah. Glue and screws ftw!! I've noticed with mdf, it does need to be the right kind of screws and exactly the right size predrilled holes for the screws for them to bite really well.

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Welp def sticking with glue and screws still lol. Now youll just have to get 4 more 12s and wall it off haha

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Just incase anyone else was wondering I'll be the one to ask, titebond 2 is the glue that should be used? And which screws would be the best to use and Also size hole pre drilled? Thanks!

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(((Ahh thats the issue. Glue by itself is not quite enough. Even brad nails are better that nothing. But you want something to help hold it. Another option when you cant use screws is those little wood dials that you drill for and insert. That at least gives some support. But if it were me I'd add some steel ;))))

>>>actually if u properly clamp glued a boxed together it will be much much stronger than nails or screws. my buddy dave built a box for my friend and he did not use a single nail or screws, ill tell u what 3 years later and still 5k and still the same as the first they he got it. actually he builds all his boxes this way and ships them all over the US and not one problem he ever had of it coming apart, just glue and proper techniques.<<<

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^^^^

Finally some one said it, PROPER glue joint is better then screws or nails or mechanical fasteners..

except some of you guys that do huge steel plates...nothing bettr then that lol.

Wicks I think your on the right track in your build log. Fixing shit is much harder then doing it right the first time...next time I bet you do a nice dado, or dowels or something lol.

Edited by Chris Hammer
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