^_^ Gem132 Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Can you get around that ^^^ Pioneer deh-80prs2 10" Tantric Sounds HD's Ported Box Tuned to 33hzSoundqubed 3500.1Hertz HSK 165Tantric Sounds 6.5" Coaxials80sq ft of MurdermatXs Power D3400 & D3100 Sky High Car Audio Cable Throughout Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getgcs Posted July 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 sounds like you have added resistance somewhere in your big 3. How did you terminate your wire ends and what wire are you using ? Did you remove stock wires or add to them ? I added to them with 1 awg and respliced the ends of the existing wires. I used ring terminals and hammered them on. (is that what you mean by terminate?) what are you using to measure voltage? and what are you running for amps? The pioneer deck measures the voltage for me. I have (2) hertz hdp4 (150x4 each), 1 alpine pdx-f6 (150x4) and a Rockford T1500.1 at 1920rms could the cars computer controlling the amount of charge? Also did you fuse between the alt and battery? I did not fuse between the alt and the battery... I fused after the battery and before the equipment...you said the cars computer might prevent the voltage?... I have no idea but it better not that would be terrible I fix computers for people not for cars most modern day cars computers regulate the voltage, When i start my car, i run at 14.1, after a wwhile driving, and it gets hot it goes to 13.6, then after driving for 3-4 hours through out the day, and its really hot outside, like 90+ degrees, it goes to 13.2 thats nuts so when its hot out you will lose voltage for everything. I don't think thats my case though because my change in voltage only happens when I am playing music and it doesnt matter if it is hot or cold. Last thing is my car is a 2003 jeep liberty with a 1 year old alternator and battery. my alternator is rated at 90amps at 2k rpm and I have a yellow top battery. Thanks for your help.. I think we all might be getting closer to the problem .. possibly a wrong way of installing the big 3? Maybe I wasn't supposed to keep the factory wiring? If that is the case then why would a small tiny 8awg wire interfere especially since I renewed the ends and put them into the jl audio battery terminals? Please help... Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Should he fuse between the alt and battery? lol............? 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getgcs Posted July 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Should he fuse between the alt and battery? lol............? Should I? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprkn_ranger Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Should he fuse between the alt and battery? lol............?Should I? It doesn't hurt anything if you do...if its a really short run (2ft or less) I wouldn't bother but just make sure the wire isn't ran close to anything that it can rub a hole in the jacket or melt from too much heat and short. Check out my build log! 4 Havocs in a blowthrough http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187506-sprkn-rangers-blowthrough-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Should he fuse between the alt and battery? lol............?Should I? It doesn't hurt anything if you do...if its a really short run (2ft or less) I wouldn't bother but just make sure the wire isn't ran close to anything that it can rub a hole in the jacket or melt from too much heat and short. Also, if you are the dude that chooses to fuse the CHARGE line from alt to battery, you need to charge it at the positive post of the battery, close as possible, and the charge stud of the alt, close as possible. . Think,.... if you put 1 fuse, middleish of the line, and it made contact before or after, the fuse would eliminate one HOT, say the alt. (depending where the fuse was, and where the contact was made) But, your battery and that line would still be hot. Feel me? SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 sounds like you have added resistance somewhere in your big 3. How did you terminate your wire ends and what wire are you using ? Did you remove stock wires or add to them ? I added to them with 1 awg and respliced the ends of the existing wires. I used ring terminals and hammered them on. (is that what you mean by terminate?) I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "respliced the end of the existing wires" but i think we are getting down to where the problem is. Hammered on terminals is not a proper solution. Do some search on this forum for proper crimp or soldering help. If you crimp use hydraulic, if you solder use a soldering torch and silver solder and flux. There are no shortcuts to a good termination. I'm assuming stock alternator and maybe even batteries. At this power level you need additional non-stock type battery(ies) and start to consider and a quality H.O. alternator. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprkn_ranger Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Should he fuse between the alt and battery? lol............?Should I? It doesn't hurt anything if you do...if its a really short run (2ft or less) I wouldn't bother but just make sure the wire isn't ran close to anything that it can rub a hole in the jacket or melt from too much heat and short. Also, if you are the dude that chooses to fuse the CHARGE line from alt to battery, you need to charge it at the positive post of the battery, close as possible, and the charge stud of the alt, close as possible.. Think,.... if you put 1 fuse, middleish of the line, and it made contact before or after, the fuse would eliminate one HOT, say the alt. (depending where the fuse was, and where the contact was made) But, your battery and that line would still be hot. Feel me? Yea this is very true...I should have mentioned it in my post. Thanks Kyle. Check out my build log! 4 Havocs in a blowthrough http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187506-sprkn-rangers-blowthrough-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 you should fuse every positive wire that you add into your vehicle. even the pos/neg for a volt meter. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getgcs Posted July 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Should he fuse between the alt and battery? lol............?Should I? It doesn't hurt anything if you do...if its a really short run (2ft or less) I wouldn't bother but just make sure the wire isn't ran close to anything that it can rub a hole in the jacket or melt from too much heat and short. Also, if you are the dude that chooses to fuse the CHARGE line from alt to battery, you need to charge it at the positive post of the battery, close as possible, and the charge stud of the alt, close as possible. . Think,.... if you put 1 fuse, middleish of the line, and it made contact before or after, the fuse would eliminate one HOT, say the alt. (depending where the fuse was, and where the contact was made) But, your battery and that line would still be hot. Feel me? sounds like you have added resistance somewhere in your big 3. How did you terminate your wire ends and what wire are you using ? Did you remove stock wires or add to them ? I added to them with 1 awg and respliced the ends of the existing wires. I used ring terminals and hammered them on. (is that what you mean by terminate?) I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "respliced the end of the existing wires" but i think we are getting down to where the problem is. Hammered on terminals is not a proper solution. Do some search on this forum for proper crimp or soldering help. If you crimp use hydraulic, if you solder use a soldering torch and silver solder and flux. There are no shortcuts to a good termination. I'm assuming stock alternator and maybe even batteries. At this power level you need additional non-stock type battery(ies) and start to consider and a quality H.O. alternator. I'm not fusing alt to battery.. I just care about the one fuse i have right now which protects the system. Now thanks very much for your help and I have 2 last questions. 1. what exactly will happen if I add my stock non gel type battery to my system when I have a yellow top gel type already installed? 2. how much voltage drop prevention could there possibly be gained from hammering versus soldering? right now at idle its at 13.5-13.4 and when I crank it it can drop to 12.6v. At 2k rpm it is at 13.6v and can drop to 12.8v Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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