2010gmc Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 Ok, first off, I do not know much about this website or about car audio, but I do know more now than I knew when I got my system installed. So anyway, I have a 2010 GMC Sierra 1500 with an Alpine MRX-M50 (500 watt) amp with two RF P1 12" woofers in a pre-fab box. The box is a Bbox by Atrend made for 07-newer GM crew cab trucks. My first problem is a rattle coming from the box from the cutouts where the magnets of the subs are supposed to fit. The rattle occurs mainly with higher bass frequencies but if I turn them up pretty loud it will rattle at almost any frequency. If I put a lot of pressure on the cube shaped extensions of the box (the best way i can describe them) the rattle will stop. So i tried to fix this by taking the woofers out and putting pressure on the cutouts and putting screws in all four side of the inside to hold them tight. Anyway, it did not work, the rattle is still there, any ideas? This is my first question, i have others but this is most important right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbeljefe Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 Hmmm.... from the box manufacturer's website: Mounting Depth = 6" From the Fosgate manual: Mounting Depth = 6" You can't mount a woofer with a 6" mounting depth in a box with a 6" mounting depth or you'll get rattles. Not only that but you'll restrict the pole vent and cause the driver to overheat. Looks like you should have room to shim the drivers out about a quarter inch. That won't help with cooling the woofers but it will help with the rattle. You could also try taking the boots off the motors. I'm not sure what the boot is like on the newer P1s but I have an older P1 10 I got with no boot and its mounting depth is about a quarter inch shallower than the manual states. But... if a shop did the work or even just recommended that combination of box/drivers, I'd take it back to them and let them provide the gaskets to shim the woofers. Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010gmc Posted July 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 I found the same mounting depth you did for the subwoofer, but on the Atrend website it says the mounting depth is 6.62 inches. http://www.atrendusa.com/bbox/vehicle-specific-carpeted/gm My box is the second from the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbeljefe Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 Ah... sorry about that. I looked at the wrong box. Well, that changes things then. However, I wonder how wide the motors are on those woofers? I wonder if the edges of the motors are coming in contact with the edges of the recessed areas of the box? That's the only thing I can think of now because if it was a woofer rattling and the clearances are good, holding pressure on the cabinet wouldn't help. It just about has to be that or a loose panel in the box. Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010gmc Posted July 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 is there anyway to find that out without taking my subs out of the box because the mdf is already starting to separate from taking the screws out and putting them back in. i put a screw in all four sides of the cutouts on both cutouts so im pretty sure theyre tight, now that i think about it though, i dont remember if both sides of the box rattle, i'll check tomorrow, but if both sides are rattling then it would almost have to be the motor coming into contact with the box right? because it wouldnt be very likely that both sides would have a loose panel. at least i think not Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbeljefe Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 It sure sounds to me like a clearance problem but it's hard to say without knowing the width of the motors with relationship to the width of the recesses. And no, I wouldn't think both sides of the box got missed in the gluing and nailing process. Otherwise, these people wouldn't be selling too many boxes. Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010gmc Posted July 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2013 ok well next question then i guess while i try to figure out the rattle. i was thinking of going to two 10's maybe p3 or JL W3v3 with a JL jx1000/1. I dont think the p3's will fit, but anyway, with my alpine 500 watt amp i have now, the lights already dim when the subs hit, would i be able to run the JL without adding a battery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quiet Posted July 14, 2013 Report Share Posted July 14, 2013 I owned a RF P1 15" and had the same problem. Long story short it's a shitty built sub. I had a rattle that happened almost exactly as yours did. Well it finally go worse and I ripped the motor off the basket and when I looked at the coil, the former had buckled and would strike the motor on certain frequencies. Get yourself a better built sub. I was disappointed when I got it because of the cheap stamped frame, then I realized it was only $90. Live and learn. 2007 Pacifica Rebuild. Less quiet. Still not loud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010gmc Posted July 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2013 Im not saying youre wrong but the rattle sounds like its coming from the box and when i put pressure on the recesses the rattle goes away so im not sure that im having the same problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quiet Posted July 14, 2013 Report Share Posted July 14, 2013 I thought the same thing. I even added extra bracing, and God help me, Screwed down the baffle because I thought it was loose. When you press on the box it shifts the cone slightly and the rubbing/rattling goes away. I bet you lift or press on an opposite side of the box it gets worse, right? 2007 Pacifica Rebuild. Less quiet. Still not loud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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