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12 is a little too small, assuming a ~5 foot length. 10 would suffice, unless you've got some kind of stupid long run.

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You can cheat it a bit by cutting off enough strands to fit the wire in the hole... just don't cut more than necessary. That's essentially the same as using a reducer. You can also double up on 12 if you already have enough of it and don't have 10... just be sure and only cut away the amount of strands necessary to get it in the hole.

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Can I ask why you want to run almost double power to the Sa8?

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

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Good box, good drivers & good settings with double the RMS power means you can get rated power to the drivers more often.

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^^^ This exactly

I have a DMM and an Oscope, so as long as i don't screw up it'll be clean power up to full volume on the HU. And it'll only be 1000 watts rms if I have the volume on my head unit maxed out, which I doubt will ever happen. Plus i'll have the remote gain knob which i'll set and make a marking of what blends well with my front/rear speakers (ID CTX65cs abd CTX65) cause i'm assuming the sub will greatly over power the speakers even though they'll be getting ~125 rms at full HU volume. So as bbeljefe said when i'm actually playing at normal listening volumes i'll most likely be giving the sub the rated 500rms.

Besides the fact, tons of people run 750 watts and up to the SA 8 v.2 daily.

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