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New Alternator whines through speakers!!! HELP!!!


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I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 that has about 260,000 miles on it. Before I replaced the alternator it was whining in the engine bay and through my speakers (JL Audio c2-650). After I replaced it with a dbelectrical 200amp alternator and did the big 3 with 0 gauge wiring. After I finished I started up the truck and it blew hot air through the a/c instead of cold air so I restarted it. After I did so the a/c fixed itself and I turned on my headunit (JVC Arsenal) and noticed I still had a bad whine coming through the speakers but not from the engine bay. About a month ago I noticed that my ground to my highs amp (Boston Acoustics gt-275) was a little loose so I tightened it down and put some lock-tite on the threads so it would not come loose. I re-checked the ground today and it was not loose at all, still tight. What could my problem be? Also where does everybody run their power wire and speaker wire in the truck to prevent having to overlap cables? My amp is located on the center hump in front of the cup holders.

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Is your power separate from your other cables? Only thing i know that causes any form whining or static is if all cables are run together, or bad grounds.

From what i fond on youtube and reading few comments one the replies did sound logical, as well on this page of crutchfield!

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-AnyvMlznmPq/learn/learningcenter/car/noise_suppressors_installation_guide.html

Part of RCA in car audio is a ground from my understanding.

I'v seen on youtube people using a piece of wire added as an extra ground on the RCA.

other suggestions is check all grounds that happen to do with audio, mostly starting at your head-unit.

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  • 1 month later...

The general things are is the noise starting at the head unit, make sure the head unit is properly grounded

are you using the proper rca's, theres a thread on here that tony d'amore pointed out you need to make sure the amp is made for twisted pair, if it wants shielded you will get noise in your system

make sure the rca's are of a good quality

make sure any power source is far enough away from the rca's to keep out even a minor hum

could also check to make sure the engine's components are properly grounded

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  • 4 weeks later...

check rca's!! unplug one at a time and see if it goes away when you unplug a certain one! i had one from a defective rca. check for kinks aswell

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4 fully loaded Fi sp4 15's

2 Crescendo bc5500s

Crescendo c1100.4

6 focal mids

Vifa tweets

5 XS Power d3100's

Pioneer avh-p4200dvd

All crammed into a mustang.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/150569-mikeg321s-fi-nendo-mustang-getting-walled-videos-page-4/

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dbelectrical doesntt exactly make the best alts either...

2004 Grand Prix GT

(2) 12" RE XXXs (04/05 XBL^2)

5 cu. ft tuned @ 35 Hz

MMATS HD4000.05

MMATS SQ4100

Infinity Kappa components

Juice Box black cherry

Duralast platinum group 34

1/0 KNU OFC, 2/0 welding

Singer 250A

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You need to sand all your grounds down to bare metal and make sure they are to the frame. Also get some good RCA's

2010 Mazda 3s 2.5L

Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS

Knu OFC 1/0 

SS Platinum AGM / XS Power XP750

Alpine PDX F-4 / Morel Maximo 5 + Coax 5

IA 10.1 / SSA XCON 12 

 

 

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Sometimes its just the alternator, or a bad piece of wiring or circuit somewhere in the vehicle. As i had stated in a previous thread, because of all the possible reasons. I always install a toroidal choke noise filter, in all my vehicles and all the kids friends.( weather needed or not) They are cheap, around $10 bucks for a good one. (amazon is usually the cheapest) They go inline with the positive cable feeding each peace of equipment. So odds are you would need more than one. Another great benefit is you will be amazed how well it keeps a tweeter sounding so clean. The number one comment i always get from people is how clean the system sounds. And i believe a big part of that is due to the toroidal choke noise filters, and of course tuning helps out.

truthsayer

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