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Shark shkamp2500d - 2k rms for $100?


321slapinbass

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I'd rather pay more for a lower power,quality amp. My opinion though..

1999 grand prix gt

kenwood x994 head unit

1/0 big 3 all shok industry single run to the back

New mid/highs coming not sure what

Soundqubed q2200d at .5 (have)

2 soundqubed hdc3 12s (have)

New box to be built.. sealed firing forward (yet to be designed)

200 amp alt not sure exact size or manufactor xs power batts

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You know it's all about what u want... My setup on the VVME was hitting hard windshield flex on 1k for 80$ I'm not one at all to hate on a brand.. Be it 1$ or 1000$ if its loud its good to me. I pushed my 80$ VVME at .5 for 5-6 months with no problem. Never got hot and was vary reliable. The way shit is going in car audio.. Soon all car audio will be cheap. To easy to have the same build house as the"big guy" make a amp for 1/4 of the price.

I think your definition of "hitting hard", "windshield flex", "vary reliable" and not getting hot are vastly different than mine.
ok...

01 focus se

110 amp alt

Big 3 sky high and stinger hpm ofc 1/0

Super start platinum AGM (starting)

2 runs of 1/0 Execution audio front to back

Kenwood double DIN DDx271

A pillars- orion 4" super tweeter and 2-1" alpines.

Orion xtx 64 in the front doors

2:1 4th order bandpass

Sealed off trunk

Digital designs deadener on roof/ rear deck

Orion hcca 12s (black coils)

Orion xtr3700.1

Orion xtr250.2 mid/highs

All sky high 1/0 in trunk dual runs(power/ground)

Sky high dual 1/0 inputs

2 xs power D3100 in back

Sky high batt blocks

Rose audio batt blocks

Stinger volt meter

All sky high 1\0 fuse and holders

Db link remote/ rca

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Actually... I think these share boards with that new Pure stuff.

Although the board reeks of AP/VVME, they must have added some to the parts count because the Pure amp that I tested did rated and stayed clean under load.

I doubt it's very durable though. So if you can afford 100 bucks for a "disposable" amp, give it a whirl.

you need to make a video of that pure amp. theres a thread here about them

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You know it's all about what u want... My setup on the VVME was hitting hard windshield flex on 1k for 80$ I'm not one at all to hate on a brand.. Be it 1$ or 1000$ if its loud its good to me. I pushed my 80$ VVME at .5 for 5-6 months with no problem. Never got hot and was vary reliable. The way shit is going in car audio.. Soon all car audio will be cheap. To easy to have the same build house as the"big guy" make a amp for 1/4 of the price.

I think your definition of "hitting hard", "windshield flex", "vary reliable" and not getting hot are vastly different than mine.
ok...

This is hitting hard to me,flex, reliable... Subs,amp,HU,wire, everything for under 500$ sorry if you don't like it. But I Do! I just like to get a deal.

http://youtu.be/whbR8AZnGn8

01 focus se

110 amp alt

Big 3 sky high and stinger hpm ofc 1/0

Super start platinum AGM (starting)

2 runs of 1/0 Execution audio front to back

Kenwood double DIN DDx271

A pillars- orion 4" super tweeter and 2-1" alpines.

Orion xtx 64 in the front doors

2:1 4th order bandpass

Sealed off trunk

Digital designs deadener on roof/ rear deck

Orion hcca 12s (black coils)

Orion xtr3700.1

Orion xtr250.2 mid/highs

All sky high 1/0 in trunk dual runs(power/ground)

Sky high dual 1/0 inputs

2 xs power D3100 in back

Sky high batt blocks

Rose audio batt blocks

Stinger volt meter

All sky high 1\0 fuse and holders

Db link remote/ rca

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2k rms... 2x 25a fuses..right

edit:

might be a pic of a different model nvm. still got a laugh hah

yes that's the 4ch model. this amp does not have fuses on it, like my DD amp and others. might buy one (or 2) of these for S&G and put it on my 2 vvx 15s, then send them to Meade to dyno them.

2000 Dodge Durango

Subs - (2) SKAR VVX 15 D2's

Box - 7.2 ft^3 @ 33hz, 120 in of port

Sub amp - Digital Designs M2 @ .5 ohm

Mids + Highs - PRV Audio

Mids + Highs amp - Hifonics 2000.4

Headunit - Alpine CDE-100

Equalizer - Clarion EQS746

Batteries - Mopar group 27 + (2) C&D 52ah

Wiring - 1/0 BIG 3, (2) runs 1/0

Alternator - Singer 250A

147.79 dB @ 35hz - burp - sealed on dash

147.47 dB @ 35hz - music - sealed on dash

YOUTUBE: http://www.youtube.com/user/321slapinBass/videos

SKAR_468x60.jpgDD-1.jpg

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You know it's all about what u want... My setup on the VVME was hitting hard windshield flex on 1k for 80$ I'm not one at all to hate on a brand.. Be it 1$ or 1000$ if its loud its good to me. I pushed my 80$ VVME at .5 for 5-6 months with no problem. Never got hot and was vary reliable. The way shit is going in car audio.. Soon all car audio will be cheap. To easy to have the same build house as the"big guy" make a amp for 1/4 of the price.

car audio is already cheap, the overpricing is the killer

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You know it's all about what u want... My setup on the VVME was hitting hard windshield flex on 1k for 80$ I'm not one at all to hate on a brand.. Be it 1$ or 1000$ if its loud its good to me. I pushed my 80$ VVME at .5 for 5-6 months with no problem. Never got hot and was vary reliable. The way shit is going in car audio.. Soon all car audio will be cheap. To easy to have the same build house as the"big guy" make a amp for 1/4 of the price.

I think your definition of "hitting hard", "windshield flex", "vary reliable" and not getting hot are vastly different than mine.
ok...

This is hitting hard to me,flex, reliable... Subs,amp,HU,wire, everything for under 500$ sorry if you don't like it. But I Do! I just like to get a deal.

http://youtu.be/whbR8AZnGn8

The problem with that is, the last meet I went to this past Friday there was a guy with 4 12s on 1.6k I think it was in the trunk (2 shitty sealed boxes with 2 pioneers a piece in them facing weird ass directions. Trunk vibrated like crazy and all just like that hatch was and sounded like it would be loud when you get in. Except, you get in the vehicle and there's barely any bass at all. It's not that hard to make things like trunks and hatches vibrate, and it's not that hard to have flex, but when you actually sit in there and it's not that loud with all that flex and all it's pretty disappointing

EDIT: And to the OP, I'm one of those people that has learned just to go with the higher quality stuff instead of getting cheaper products and then having to wait on warranty to exchange them and all that hassle. Went through that with one of my Brutus 2100s (while the other worked perfectly the entire time). Really cheap equipment like that is going to be hit or miss from my experience

ninja.gif Build in progress ninja.gif
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You know it's all about what u want... My setup on the VVME was hitting hard windshield flex on 1k for 80$ I'm not one at all to hate on a brand.. Be it 1$ or 1000$ if its loud its good to me. I pushed my 80$ VVME at .5 for 5-6 months with no problem. Never got hot and was vary reliable. The way shit is going in car audio.. Soon all car audio will be cheap. To easy to have the same build house as the"big guy" make a amp for 1/4 of the price.

I think your definition of "hitting hard", "windshield flex", "vary reliable" and not getting hot are vastly different than mine.
ok...
This is hitting hard to me,flex, reliable... Subs,amp,HU,wire, everything for under 500$ sorry if you don't like it. But I Do! I just like to get a deal.

http://youtu.be/whbR8AZnGn8

The problem with that is, the last meet I went to this past Friday there was a guy with 4 12s on 1.6k I think it was in the trunk (2 shitty sealed boxes with 2 pioneers a piece in them facing weird ass directions. Trunk vibrated like crazy and all just like that hatch was and sounded like it would be loud when you get in. Except, you get in the vehicle and there's barely any bass at all. It's not that hard to make things like trunks and hatches vibrate, and it's not that hard to have flex, but when you actually sit in there and it's not that loud with all that flex and all it's pretty disappointing

EDIT: And to the OP, I'm one of those people that has learned just to go with the higher quality stuff instead of getting cheaper products and then having to wait on warranty to exchange them and all that hassle. Went through that with one of my Brutus 2100s (while the other worked perfectly the entire time). Really cheap equipment like that is going to be hit or miss from my experience

Yes it's easy to flex a car/truck. In my case I don't have mismatch subs and a junk ass box. I have custom built box @30hz with American bass subs. Never had someone get in my truck and say it not loud... Have had people say o my hcca, w7, mtx9500 12s are better then get in my ride and be like fuck! My setup will move your shirt around inside and hurt your ears...

01 focus se

110 amp alt

Big 3 sky high and stinger hpm ofc 1/0

Super start platinum AGM (starting)

2 runs of 1/0 Execution audio front to back

Kenwood double DIN DDx271

A pillars- orion 4" super tweeter and 2-1" alpines.

Orion xtx 64 in the front doors

2:1 4th order bandpass

Sealed off trunk

Digital designs deadener on roof/ rear deck

Orion hcca 12s (black coils)

Orion xtr3700.1

Orion xtr250.2 mid/highs

All sky high 1/0 in trunk dual runs(power/ground)

Sky high dual 1/0 inputs

2 xs power D3100 in back

Sky high batt blocks

Rose audio batt blocks

Stinger volt meter

All sky high 1\0 fuse and holders

Db link remote/ rca

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You know it's all about what u want... My setup on the VVME was hitting hard windshield flex on 1k for 80$ I'm not one at all to hate on a brand.. Be it 1$ or 1000$ if its loud its good to me. I pushed my 80$ VVME at .5 for 5-6 months with no problem. Never got hot and was vary reliable. The way shit is going in car audio.. Soon all car audio will be cheap. To easy to have the same build house as the"big guy" make a amp for 1/4 of the price.

I think your definition of "hitting hard", "windshield flex", "vary reliable" and not getting hot are vastly different than mine.
ok...
This is hitting hard to me,flex, reliable... Subs,amp,HU,wire, everything for under 500$ sorry if you don't like it. But I Do! I just like to get a deal.

http://youtu.be/whbR8AZnGn8

The problem with that is, the last meet I went to this past Friday there was a guy with 4 12s on 1.6k I think it was in the trunk (2 shitty sealed boxes with 2 pioneers a piece in them facing weird ass directions. Trunk vibrated like crazy and all just like that hatch was and sounded like it would be loud when you get in. Except, you get in the vehicle and there's barely any bass at all. It's not that hard to make things like trunks and hatches vibrate, and it's not that hard to have flex, but when you actually sit in there and it's not that loud with all that flex and all it's pretty disappointing

EDIT: And to the OP, I'm one of those people that has learned just to go with the higher quality stuff instead of getting cheaper products and then having to wait on warranty to exchange them and all that hassle. Went through that with one of my Brutus 2100s (while the other worked perfectly the entire time). Really cheap equipment like that is going to be hit or miss from my experience

Yes it's easy to flex a car/truck. In my case I don't have mismatch subs and a junk ass box. I have custom built box @30hz with American bass subs. Never had someone get in my truck and say it not loud... Have had people say o my hcca, w7, mtx9500 12s are better then get in my ride and be like fuck! My setup will move your shirt around inside and hurt your

01 focus se

110 amp alt

Big 3 sky high and stinger hpm ofc 1/0

Super start platinum AGM (starting)

2 runs of 1/0 Execution audio front to back

Kenwood double DIN DDx271

A pillars- orion 4" super tweeter and 2-1" alpines.

Orion xtx 64 in the front doors

2:1 4th order bandpass

Sealed off trunk

Digital designs deadener on roof/ rear deck

Orion hcca 12s (black coils)

Orion xtr3700.1

Orion xtr250.2 mid/highs

All sky high 1/0 in trunk dual runs(power/ground)

Sky high dual 1/0 inputs

2 xs power D3100 in back

Sky high batt blocks

Rose audio batt blocks

Stinger volt meter

All sky high 1\0 fuse and holders

Db link remote/ rca

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You know it's all about what u want... My setup on the VVME was hitting hard windshield flex on 1k for 80$ I'm not one at all to hate on a brand.. Be it 1$ or 1000$ if its loud its good to me. I pushed my 80$ VVME at .5 for 5-6 months with no problem. Never got hot and was vary reliable. The way shit is going in car audio.. Soon all car audio will be cheap. To easy to have the same build house as the"big guy" make a amp for 1/4 of the price.

I think your definition of "hitting hard", "windshield flex", "vary reliable" and not getting hot are vastly different than mine.
ok...
This is hitting hard to me,flex, reliable... Subs,amp,HU,wire, everything for under 500$ sorry if you don't like it. But I Do! I just like to get a deal.

http://youtu.be/whbR8AZnGn8

The problem with that is, the last meet I went to this past Friday there was a guy with 4 12s on 1.6k I think it was in the trunk (2 shitty sealed boxes with 2 pioneers a piece in them facing weird ass directions. Trunk vibrated like crazy and all just like that hatch was and sounded like it would be loud when you get in. Except, you get in the vehicle and there's barely any bass at all. It's not that hard to make things like trunks and hatches vibrate, and it's not that hard to have flex, but when you actually sit in there and it's not that loud with all that flex and all it's pretty disappointing

EDIT: And to the OP, I'm one of those people that has learned just to go with the higher quality stuff instead of getting cheaper products and then having to wait on warranty to exchange them and all that hassle. Went through that with one of my Brutus 2100s (while the other worked perfectly the entire time). Really cheap equipment like that is going to be hit or miss from my experience

Yes it's easy to flex a car/truck. In my case I don't have mismatch subs and a junk ass box. I have custom built box @30hz with American bass subs. Never had someone get in my truck and say it not loud... Have had people say o my hcca, w7, mtx9500 12s are better then get in my ride and be like fuck! My setup will move your shirt around inside and hurt your ears. Everyone that has been in my truck has said they can feel the wax comeing out of there ears lol

01 focus se

110 amp alt

Big 3 sky high and stinger hpm ofc 1/0

Super start platinum AGM (starting)

2 runs of 1/0 Execution audio front to back

Kenwood double DIN DDx271

A pillars- orion 4" super tweeter and 2-1" alpines.

Orion xtx 64 in the front doors

2:1 4th order bandpass

Sealed off trunk

Digital designs deadener on roof/ rear deck

Orion hcca 12s (black coils)

Orion xtr3700.1

Orion xtr250.2 mid/highs

All sky high 1/0 in trunk dual runs(power/ground)

Sky high dual 1/0 inputs

2 xs power D3100 in back

Sky high batt blocks

Rose audio batt blocks

Stinger volt meter

All sky high 1\0 fuse and holders

Db link remote/ rca

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Share on other sites

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