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Audiofanaticz PC "upgrading watercooling Page12" updated 2/3/16


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It was rather a strange taste, to best describe few years ago my girl had a friend that wore some cucumber scented body spray stuff. I dont know why but the smell of it was not to appealing imo but somehow i was dared to take a swig of it... It tasted noting like it smelled, and who would want to smell like a pickle is beyond me anyways. The stuff was very very bitter, had a huge chemical taste, and tasted nothing like it smelled to say the least. The burn from the stuff was something like taking a shot of everclear, and it just did not go away! Now of coarse i didnt drink my nanofluid, just dabbed a tad on my finger but the taste was something very similar but more oily it seemed but some what chalky at the same time like a Tums.

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So I am finally doing a full water cooling setup.

More EK radiators

Bitspower GPU waterblocks

BitspowerPETG Rigid tubing
Bitspower fittings

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So when I first did the CPU and MOBO loop I used IceDragon Nanofluid. I ran it for a few months and then flushed 3 times replaced the old tubing and refilled with distilled water because my old tubing turned yellow on the inside. A few months later I flushed and refilled again, and just 2 months ago I replaced the tubing and flushed it again and refilled. Yet the tube was still changing colors.

As I pulled this loop apart Im still seeing the white Icedragon nanofluid....

My nickle plated waterbloocks are starting to show copper as well, so I am taking apart the old blocks and giving them a good cleaning, and flushing each radiator as well several times.

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Decided tonight I may want a few more fittings and some extra PETG rigid tubing since I never bent it before and I want extra incase I mess up.

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redid the glue on my tempature probe that screws inside the radiator and is hooked up to the SMD TM-1

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Debating on keeping this plexi in it, I decided to black out the back side of it, dont know if it will be better or worse than before.

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Making a fill hole on the top of the case, something I didnt have before.

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you're sick.... completely off... but i fcking love what you're doing with this build lol

Pioneer Premier P880PRS ll Front Stage: US Acoustics 4060 - Random speakers currently ll Sub Stage: Crescendo BC3500D - 15" Xcon sealed @ 3.28 cubes ll Electrical: - Kinetik HC1800(front) NEW***DieHard P-2(rear)

beaker- I know this sounds like a lot of anime bullshit, but it is true.

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That whole setup is ridiculous. I never would have thought to put it on plexi like that.

Hey did you ever have issues with your Corsair cooler? Mine popped a couple of weeks ago, got that rancid burning electronics smell, scared the shit out of me but found out it was the fan controller and the LED on the top of the cooler, rest of it was working fine.

I went i7/Nvidia GTX for my latest build but I keep coming back to my server board that I built awhile back...dual xeons or dual opterons keep calling me.

Love seeing all the pics man keep up the good work!

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Hey did you ever have issues with your Corsair cooler? Mine popped a couple of weeks ago, got that rancid burning electronics smell, scared the shit out of me but found out it was the fan controller and the LED on the top of the cooler, rest of it was working fine.

Ive actually been wanting to do more plexi in it, but before the rear panel was too bright, and I wanted to tone it down a little.

Whenever I order more I have some more things to do to clean it up a little.

Ive used my old Corsair h60i for about 2-3months or so iirc.

Then I sold it to a member on the forums for around $50.

He got to use it for a few months and then it crapped out on him.

It was still under warranty but it was nontransferable.

So I created a RMA, had him ship it in to Corsair using my return address.

Almost 2 weeks later a new one arrived at my house I think it was a H80i (never opened the box), and just shipped it back off to him.

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So these are the Bitspower full cover waterblocks I ordered for my cards. They were $60 off making them something like $80 each so I had to buy them even if it meant not using them for a little while.

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Installing my old EK 240mm radiator back in the system after it was cleaned.

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Getting ready to mount these 4 fans on my new EK 480mm radiator.

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A little added heatshrink on the wires.

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Bottom radiator in.

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Starting to install the new Bitspower fittings that will replace the old EK fittings.

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My first bend of the Bitspower PETG rigid tubing, still needed to cut the ends down to the right length.

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First tube installed.

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Getting the next tube bent and cut to length.

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Ordered more of the tubing in case I mess up and need to remake some pieces (which I did being it was my first time).

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Working on the tube that goes from the top radiator to the res (took me 2 times to make it, first time I cut it down to short).

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Tube installed.

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Went back to work on the tube I started to bend earlier, figured I should to the tube that goes on the radiator in the back before this one that goes in the front for ease of installation.

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After the length was found, I beveled the ends with some sandpaper to make it slide into the compression fittings easier.

I then rinsed it in some distilled water to remove any dust from sanding which is why it is wet.
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Got that tube installed.

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Now onto the tube that goes from the res outlet in to the Swiftech D5 pump inlet.

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At this time I was ready to start plumbing the basement of the case.

I also ordered some Bitspower 90degree corner compression fittings for down here.

Problem came up where I had to pull out the big bottom radiator just to screw these in because of clearance issues!

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Once I got the big radiator back in place I then had to measure, bend, and cut the tube to connect the big radiator to the little radiator.

This was not fun because there is no room down there.

Screwing these compression fittings tight once the tube was installed made my hands cramp up so bad.

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Next tube was installed which goes from the Switctech D5 pump outlet in to the small radiator in the basement of the case.

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Then I had to make this weird double bent tube to go from the big radiator to the bottom video card.

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These 4 little pieces became a HUGE PITA!

These are what connects the 3 video cards together to allow water to flow through.

I had no idea how long they had to be, even measuring I was still off several times!

If you look at the previous pic you can kind of see why.

You can notice that the video cards towards the back by the power plugs are spaced greater apart than they are where you screw them to the case.

The reason for this is because these little 4 tubes are too long.

My EVGA 3-way SLI bridge wouldnt even fit on the cards.

Finally I went out to the garage, stuck my orbital sander upside down in the vice and sanded these things until I got them down to 20 mm.

I was originally at 27mm

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Now the EVGA SLI bridge fits.

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Cards are all installed.

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Started to fill the system with distilled water.

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Cable management... good enough for me I guess for now.

Id like to sleeve my cables or order sleeved ones, I also want to add some more LEDs inside the case.

Both of which brings me to undoing all the cables in the back, so once I get the other things done I will worry about cable management.

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System is full as full can be. I spent a good 2+ hours filling it, burping it, rotating the case in every which way direction to get any trapped water out of the waterblocks, tubes and radiators.

I dont think I can get any more water into it unless a lot of little air bubbles make their way to the top, but even then when the system is off the water exits the top radiator into my funnel as if its overflowing, but when its on it goes back in.

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So this is the edge lit plexi I was using before and painted the back of to soften the glow to make it more like an accent trim light instead of a flood light that lit the entire case up and was overbearing.

Now with that light dimmer I can add some other contrasting lights and not look like to much hopefully.

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Tempatures at load seem to be stick right around 35 degrees Celsius.

This is with my ambient temperature in my house being between 74-76 degrees Fahrenheit (23.3 to 24.4 degrees Celsius),

and my case sitting directly in front of the heat register next to my desk.

So not too bad!

The SMD TM-1 was modded to actual go inside one of my radiators and read the water temp, not the air temp inside the case.

This should be a more accurate reading.

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To verify how accurate the SMD TM-1 senor is reading, here is a picture of my video card tempatures, the cards each have a senors of their own from the factory that I can not tamper with and change the reading of.

Two of the cards read 35 degrees Celsius and the top card reads 36 degrees Celsius.

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insane insane insane!!! great work and patience

Pioneer Premier P880PRS ll Front Stage: US Acoustics 4060 - Random speakers currently ll Sub Stage: Crescendo BC3500D - 15" Xcon sealed @ 3.28 cubes ll Electrical: - Kinetik HC1800(front) NEW***DieHard P-2(rear)

beaker- I know this sounds like a lot of anime bullshit, but it is true.

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