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Equipment:


Headunit- Pioner AVH-X4500BT


Subs- 2 10" DC Level 3's with AR cones, 8 layer level 4 coil, and spider upgrades


Sub Amps- 1 Formula X 5k


Components- 1 set of Crescendo Mezzo components (replaced mids with carbon CNF 6.5's)


Mids Amp- RE Audio CTX-1600.2


Power Wire- Audiotechnix 1/0


Speaker Wire- SHCA 12ga


RCA- T-Spec V12RCA-202


Backup Cam- Crimestopper SV-5130.IR



To-Do List:

1. Rewire 5k with Audiotechnix 1/0

2. Finish RGB's

-already have working in floor boards

-place by amp and in trunk

3. Redo amp rack

-will hold RE Audio CTX-1600.2 and Kicker DX400.4

- DX400.4 will run the removable 6x9's, I play audio outside a lot, tailgating, volleyball and such

4. Take Pictures!!!!!

5. Replace Sub RCA's to match

6. Redo mids spacers or build cheap door pod

Something like this cost $5

93761d1137885986-5-do-it-yourself-door-s

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Goals:

1. Buy DSP and run active. To do so I'd have the RE1600.2 running the mids, then there's a few options

A) DX400.4 runs the 4 6x9's, Off brand 2-channel runs tweets

B ) DX400.4 runs tweets on two channels and the 4 6x9's on other two channels

C) DX400.4 runs tweets on two channels, 2 6x9's on other two channels, and off brand 2-channel runs other 2 6x9's

The options are ranked in order. Option A provides most power to the system but idk how the 2-channel will make the tweets sound. If it doesn't meet my standards then I'll go to option B. If option B isn't loud enough then I'd throw in the other 2-channel. 6x9's main goal is volume but I still don't want it sounding like shit.

2. Port the subs and have box in rear half of the trunk instead of front

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You should try sealing off around the box so there is no leaking under the strut bar. That way back of the car acts like the ported side of a 4th BP with port being the space above the strut bar. I think it makes a difference in sound in my Z and my sub is sealed.

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You should try sealing off around the box so there is no leaking under the strut bar. That way back of the car acts like the ported side of a 4th BP with port being the space above the strut bar. I think it makes a difference in sound in my Z and my sub is sealed.

I'll add that to the to-do list!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Goals:

1. Buy DSP and run active. To do so I'd have the RE1600.2 running the mids, then there's a few options

A) DX400.4 runs the 4 6x9's, Off brand 2-channel runs tweets

B ) DX400.4 runs tweets on two channels and the 4 6x9's on other two channels

C) DX400.4 runs tweets on two channels, 2 6x9's on other two channels, and off brand 2-channel runs other 2 6x9's

The options are ranked in order. Option A provides most power to the system but idk how the 2-channel will make the tweets sound. If it doesn't meet my standards then I'll go to option B. If option B isn't loud enough then I'd throw in the other 2-channel. 6x9's main goal is volume but I still don't want it sounding like shit.

2. Port the subs and have box in rear half of the trunk instead of front

So I need input on what to do here, I'm probably going to be buying the Kicker Front Row today, looks like a good deal and reliable

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Installed some LEDs in the back, changed a couple bolts, fixed some rattles, and added some deadener.

D0C46E11-D34C-4C5B-9057-72DB696AB7A2_zps

Ran out of washer so had to redneck engineer in the meantime

2460936A-C65F-4535-810D-07F81E3A1A9F_zps

Amp back in. Still going to rewire later so all wire matches. This is installed with old scrap pieces. Just need to buy lugs and solder

C4889262-7154-4CDC-A843-F7A55ECF6397_zps

All lights on white

D0F08DF2-ABAC-4122-A389-16F9963D1EF7_zps

Video of the RGBs

http://vid619.photobucket.com/albums/tt273/graham0599/350z%20Build/FD1007D8-1A0A-499A-90CB-E6BCEB663A57_zpsvireuwv8.mp4

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