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"I work in a shop (part owner) its my personal car with my idea just wanted to see people opinion of the setup and if it would work that all"

Hopefully you just push paperwork or sell or something because anyone who has ever done an install would have told you to put it in a 5 gallon bucket.

hahaha not even going to waste my time lol

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"I work in a shop (part owner) its my personal car with my idea just wanted to see people opinion of the setup and if it would work that all"

Hopefully you just push paperwork or sell or something because anyone who has ever done an install would have told you to put it in a 5 gallon bucket.

You mean like this? (10:00)

http://youtu.be/AKH23bamIKU


*New vehicle and system coming soon.*

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I was referring to the SA-8 in the 5G in the back of a CRX burping a 150 but that does work too. I saw that a few weeks ago, I love how the box is just wasted space. Lol.

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zr2usasig.jpg

Yeah, it's slower than your bowel movements.

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OP, if you're talking about one of those stock 8" sealed enclosures, and SD-2 8" would work better, but make sure you check out the mounting depth and cutout size.

If the cutout size is too small you'll need to check if it's possible to enlarge it. If the mounting depth is too shallow, you'll need a spacer (which might mean that you'll have to leave the plastic cover off)

Probably your best bet for an SA-8 would be to build an enclosure. If you wanted to keep a factory look, and the SD-8" wont fit in the stock enclosure, you're going to have to measure out if a fiberglass enclosure would fit inside of that panel, and build yourself one.

If you were thinking of doing Infinite Baffle (free air into the trunk), neither driver would be optimal for an Infinite Baffle alignment. If possible, I would look into maybe doing at least a single 12", I recommend Fi Car Audio's IB3's. For inspiration, here's a good example of IB3 12's installed into a trunk:

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/143276-2003-chevy-monte-carlo-ss-audio-build-ib-build/

Edited by BobbyG2
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*New vehicle and system coming soon.*

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OP, if you're talking about one of those stock 8" sealed enclosures, and SD-2 8" would work better, but make sure you check out the mounting depth and cutout size.

If the cutout size is too small you'll need to check if it's possible to enlarge it. If the mounting depth is too shallow, you'll need a spacer (which might mean that you'll have to leave the plastic cover off)

Probably your best bet for an SA-8 would be to build an enclosure. If you wanted to keep a factory look, and the SD-8" wont fit in the stock enclosure, you're going to have to measure out if a fiberglass enclosure would fit inside of that panel, and build yourself one.

If you were thinking of doing Infinite Baffle (free air into the trunk), neither driver would be optimal for an Infinite Baffle alignment. If possible, I would look into maybe doing at least a single 12", I recommend Fi Car Audio's IB3's. For inspiration, here's a good example of IB3 12's installed into a trunk:

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/143276-2003-chevy-monte-carlo-ss-audio-build-ib-build/

thanks that's what I was looking at doing too ive seen another pic of an actual dart that has his type of setup also I just found it

http://www.mun2.tv/news/slideshow-custom-dodge-dart#/slide/2

this is the way the dart looks with factory sub I don't have one in my I wanted to do on my self

http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/attachments/dodge-dart-electronics/3419d1351733050-8in-free-air-subwoofer-amp-ordered-img_0889.jpg

http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/attachments/dodge-dart-electronics/3420d1351733098-8in-free-air-subwoofer-amp-ordered-img_0893.jpg

http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/attachments/dodge-dart-electronics/3421d1351733531-8in-free-air-subwoofer-amp-ordered-img_0894.jpg

actual factory with the 3.5 speaker

http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/attachments/dodge-dart-electronics/715d1345074712-upgrade-speaker-system-img_0793-1-.jpg

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The sd model is said to be a slim mount, but tgat is a real slim mount.. The sd-2 just has a flatter magnet and vents from sides instead of back of magnet allowing for it to be butted up against the back of enclosure.. It is quite a bit shorter than the sa series tho..

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Yeah, that's infinite baffle. Neither the SA 8 or SD2 8 will work well in infinite baffle. Here's a good quote I found that describes what you need to look for when choosing a driver for IB better than I can:

You need to consider both Qts and Fs. With these two, you can quickly guesstimate what the final response will look like. Ultimately that's what we are aiming for, a certain final response.

We have a particular advantage in a vehicle, and that is cabin gain. Home audio doesn't benefit from room gain nearly as much as we benefit from cabin gain. So typically in home audio to have good low end response from an infinite baffle driver, you need a high Qts (.6-.8) and a low Fs (~20hz, +/-). Why? Because that will provide a really low F3 with a reasonable rolloff thereafter.

In car audio, we don't have to have such a low F3 because we benefit from cabin gain. We can have a higher F3 and a little shallower roll off and still have good low end response because of the boost in output we receive from the cabin gain. And really, having too much low end from the driver itself could result in an exaggerated or bloated low end response once placed in the vehicle due to the addition of cabin gain.

So why does the original IDQ with a Qts of .259 work well IB? Because it has a really low Fs of 19hz. This will keep the F3 at a reasonable point so that when combined with the cabin gain we still get good extended low end response. Another option would be a driver with a higher Qts and a higher Fs. Something like a Qts of .5 and Fs of 30hz has a fairly similar response to that of the IDQ infinite baffle. A high Qts and low Fs can work also depending on the response of your vehicle and your ability to EQ out the low end if it is overbearing.

The main thing to AVOID is low Qts and high Fs. The F3 is too high for cabin gain to make up the low end, so the bottom end will be anemic. For example, when I won the SSA Dcon I tried it IB simply because that's how my car was already setup so it was a simple drop-in installation (among other reasons). And guess what? The low end sucked. But I knew that would happen before I even installed it. Why? Low Qts, high Fs. Bad combination for IB. You could try to EQ in the low end in this situation, but you may run out of driver excursion before you get to where you want to be depending on the driver.

The other thing I would look for is excursion. Output in IB is a function of excursion. It doesn't have to have 30mm of Xmax, but if Xmax is fairly limited you may need to use multiple drivers to achieve satisfactory output depending upon your output requirements.

I use(d) an Exodus Audio Shiva-X infinite baffle in my vehicle and loved it.

The SA 8 has way too low an Qts (.33), and a little too high an Fs (35hz). The SD2-8 has an acceptable Qts(.58), but way too high an Fs(45.2hz). You're going to want to find an 8 with an Qts of >.6, an Fs ~30-35hz, and a decent amount of excursion.

With infinite baffle, I highly recommend getting drivers with more cone area! a Single 8" is not going to be very loud at all. But if you must, than the Dayton RS HF 8" is what I'd recommend. A little low on the Qts(.5) side but with an Fs of 28Hz you shouldn't notice that. Be careful, though, it doesn't have all that much excursion(9mm), and cone area and excursion are the things you need for output in infinite baffle! http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-456


*New vehicle and system coming soon.*

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