Ryan_Kao Posted August 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Alright guys i found this. Its a 140amp HO alternator for my car. Do you think its worth it? Buying this will delay my build quite a bit. http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/11058hiamp.html Theres also a 160amp version for $250 with core exchange. http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/160amphioual1.html And here's just a stock remanufactured 75amp. http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/13820.html Build in progress: -Pioneer Premiere DEH-P49OIB _Kenwood Excelon KFCX173 6.75" -Kenwood KFC-1094PS 4" -DB Link 4AWG -Soundstream DTR1.900D -Obsidian Audio v2 12" D2 @1ohm -L-Port, 2.5cubes @32hz CHECK ME OUT ON YOUTUBE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyuunosukePanda Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 When upgrading you're alt stock wiring will really get hot if the draw is high say you're pulling 50 amps through stock wire. (Usually 10 gauge or 8 gauge) At 10 gauge (25A/Ft) thats pretty much maxing out how much it can handle. At 8 gauge (35A/ 15Ft) you're a little safer. This is using OFC not CCA. Upgrading your alternator power wire and the ground strap from the block to the chassis should be fine. Under a load the voltage will drop slightly, no they aren't strictly regulated, but they are not way out say 18 volts max output from the alt to the battery. Pay careful attention to grounds make sure they are big enough to allow the electrons to flow properly to the positive connection (without shorting) Here's a 150A H/O Alt: http://www.ebay.com/itm/HIGH-OUTPUT-ALTERNATOR-SUBARU-FORESTER-IMPREZA-SAAB-9-2X-2-0L-2-2L-2-5L-150AMP-/281028171927?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1999%7CMake%3ASubaru%7CModel%3AImpreza&hash=item416e959897&vxp=mtr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watch the bass Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 With those alts you would be fine. The question is, how long did you want to drive the car and do you think you´r heart want an upgrade later. If it so go with the stronger one. And do the BIG 3 in O/1 gauge, smaller there arent the big 3, lol. "in the abundance of water, the fool is thirsty" Bob Marley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DC Power Kyle Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Idle output will suffer on those alternators.. you won't be happy with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_Kao Posted August 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Well then what should I do? I cant really afford more than $250 on an Alternator right now. Build in progress: -Pioneer Premiere DEH-P49OIB _Kenwood Excelon KFCX173 6.75" -Kenwood KFC-1094PS 4" -DB Link 4AWG -Soundstream DTR1.900D -Obsidian Audio v2 12" D2 @1ohm -L-Port, 2.5cubes @32hz CHECK ME OUT ON YOUTUBE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watch the bass Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Idle output will suffer on those alternators.. you won't be happy with them. How much suffer´s a 70 amp original alt? "in the abundance of water, the fool is thirsty" Bob Marley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyuunosukePanda Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Get some 1/0 and try the big 3 if that doesn't work go to the next thing, test your battery with and without your car running, the charging system should be 13.8v at idle on average. It is possible that one of the sense wires were pinched or isn't properly connected. There is something off about this, on my other vehicle (no longer runs) only had a 90 amp alt, never had issues but it went out 2 times. But the whole system would stay at 14v running idle even with the stereo and amp on (when I first started out my system was only 200 watts). Did you check the cables like I suggested? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 That's normal. Idle output on those alts SUCKS. I know that one from experience. I can be sitting at a stoplight and if I turn on my fogs and headlights at the same time it will drain down to 12.4v lol ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Well then what should I do? I cant really afford more than $250 on an Alternator right now. A good alt will be more than that. Try double, plus a bit more. Your best bet would be to avoid going full tilt at idle. Rev your car or drive around if you want to bump. Turn off accessories like headlights, vents and air conditioning, etc if you are stopped for more than a little bit ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathcards Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Idle output will suffer on those alternators.. you won't be happy with them. was just gonna say he wasn't gonna get all those amps skar sk2500.1 0 gauge power and ground kunukonceptz alpine HUvxi65 components on BA gt-275new build log -> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/150642-project-d-kon-deathcards-build-log/#entry2148821 2 x-15 sundowns singer alt, odyssey bat, and maxwell ultra caps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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