RyuunosukePanda Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 Yeah, looking at that alt more I wouldn't get it, but Mechman and DC Power offers pretty good alts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_Kao Posted September 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Well I've looked into mechman, and i got a quote. For a 180amp alt for my car, they want $499.... Build in progress: -Pioneer Premiere DEH-P49OIB _Kenwood Excelon KFCX173 6.75" -Kenwood KFC-1094PS 4" -DB Link 4AWG -Soundstream DTR1.900D -Obsidian Audio v2 12" D2 @1ohm -L-Port, 2.5cubes @32hz CHECK ME OUT ON YOUTUBE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diegoclass2010 Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 dont cut corners... get a dc or mechman alt, for now you could just get a second battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Well I've looked into mechman, and i got a quote. For a 180amp alt for my car, they want $499.... This is because the alternator for $499 works as you expect it to. The $200 alternator does not work. Where do you want to put your money ? $200 today + $499 tomorrow = $699 or $499 tomorrow = $499 Save up, spend your money on the right stuff the first time and give yourself $200 - or you can send me half for saving you the stress and aggravation. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyuunosukePanda Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Dual battery setups, and spare battery banks, are a smart choice. In combination with an added or replacement alt the power system could handle much more than expected. Since alts are costly you could do the dual batteries and save for the alt like Tarball suggested. That's the reason I'm doing the dual batteries first is because it is much cheaper, especially working Batteries+ the only costly part is all the cable and fuse holders to do it properly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyuunosukePanda Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 This image should help how it would look when done. The second battery must be grounded to the chassis, not just the amp, For example, to wire from the negative terminal, one to the chassis the other to an amp or distribution block.Basic Dual Battery This isn't needed unless you're running with your car off otherwise you can just straight wire battery to battery. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PU1er9xfMg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_Kao Posted September 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 Hmm... I'm still a bit confused by that video. I dont ever listen to my system with car off. Its always either running or im driving. So I'm assuming just doing a basic parallel run would be ok? Am i wrong? And also, people say use similar batteries, I have a basic brand new Bi-Mart starter battery, and I was planning on just picking up a small sealed Kinetik or XS. will that be ok? Build in progress: -Pioneer Premiere DEH-P49OIB _Kenwood Excelon KFCX173 6.75" -Kenwood KFC-1094PS 4" -DB Link 4AWG -Soundstream DTR1.900D -Obsidian Audio v2 12" D2 @1ohm -L-Port, 2.5cubes @32hz CHECK ME OUT ON YOUTUBE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranny Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 Well I've looked into mechman, and i got a quote. For a 180amp alt for my car, they want $499.... its worth it. literally. that price gets you a custom alt casing (as opposed to the ebay ones where all they literally do is stuff bigger internals into a casing that cant handle the heat output), and quality parts (instead of chinese shit). plus the customer service is better too, usually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 This image should help how it would look when done. The second battery must be grounded to the chassis, not just the amp, For example, to wire from the negative terminal, one to the chassis the other to an amp or distribution block. Basic Dual Battery This isn't needed unless you're running with your car off otherwise you can just straight wire battery to battery. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PU1er9xfMg Disagree. No reason for a relay. Even if you occasionally play with the car off. It's only useful if you play with the car off to the point of dead batteries. OP has a volt meter, he can see if his batts are getting drained. It's another expense, another piece to break, and another source of resistance. Ground both batts to strut tower, run a positive run from one battery (or alt) to the other. Fuse next to each battery. Boom done. And regarding alts: I know DC power costs a pretty penny. But believe me, there's a reason they do. I've clamped 215a at idle from mine ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyuunosukePanda Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 There are a lot of videos and everyone says something different about a parallel run, things I've heard are 1) Instant drain on both batteries. 2) Overcharging. 3) Shortened lifespan. 4) You'll be just fine. 5) The batteries will equal each others voltage out possibly blowing in-line fuses. 6) Higher strain on the alternator. I haven't tested it myself, yeah it is another expense true but if you have very dissimilar batteries, I would not run straight parallel. Try to match up your specs as closely as possible on your batteries. I'm really debating whether or not to just try it instead of using a relay, but I may buy another battery, I work at Batteries Plus, but regardless I have to wait for my 1/0 cable to come in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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