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Trying to get it right from the start


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Hey guys,

New to the forums as a member, but not new as a reader. I have recently purchased a car that I want to "do right" from the start and wanted some input. I have done a lot of searching, but it seems that I could not find a similar situation already posted.

2006 Dodge Magnum SXT (3.5L)

Questions

1) The main battery is already in the trunk of the car (next to the spare tire). This already has what seems to be factory 1/0 gauge wiring running to it from the alternator. So my question is.

a) Do I stick with this wire or rewire it with aftermarket wire.

B) If I stick with this wire, should I fuse it before the battery (it currently is not fused).

2) I also want to run 2 more batteries. Should I make a separate run from the alternators to these batteries, or simply hook these batteries up to the main battery and run them like that?

3) Will doing the "big 3" mean as much to me, since the initial run to the main battery (and future additional batteries) be so long (at least for the power wire).

4) Depending on if I keep the current main power wire, or run multiple runs, will either of those affect if the 2 additional batteries (which will be the same) are different from the main battery?

I am planning on running around 3000-4000 watts RMS total (including mids and highs) for this car. I have already ordered a 320 amp hairpin Singer alternator.

Any knowledge is much appreciated. The thing that is throwing me off from reading most posts is the main battery is already in the back.

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Hey guys,

New to the forums as a member, but not new as a reader. I have recently purchased a car that I want to "do right" from the start and wanted some input. I have done a lot of searching, but it seems that I could not find a similar situation already posted.

2006 Dodge Magnum SXT (3.5L)

Questions

1) The main battery is already in the trunk of the car (next to the spare tire). This already has what seems to be factory 1/0 gauge wiring running to it from the alternator. So my question is.

a) Do I stick with this wire or rewire it with aftermarket wire.

B) If I stick with this wire, should I fuse it before the battery (it currently is not fused).

2) I also want to run 2 more batteries. Should I make a separate run from the alternators to these batteries, or simply hook these batteries up to the main battery and run them like that?

3) Will doing the "big 3" mean as much to me, since the initial run to the main battery (and future additional batteries) be so long (at least for the power wire).

4) Depending on if I keep the current main power wire, or run multiple runs, will either of those affect if the 2 additional batteries (which will be the same) are different from the main battery?

I am planning on running around 3000-4000 watts RMS total (including mids and highs) for this car. I have already ordered a 320 amp hairpin Singer alternator.

Any knowledge is much appreciated. The thing that is throwing me off from reading most posts is the main battery is already in the back.

i have a charger and that cable is stock 1 gauge welding cable and it runs from the battery in the trunk through the car and mounts under the dash wall on the passenger side behind the carpet, from there it is splut i believe into 4 gauge wires going to numerous things, alts, fuse boxes, you can leave that stock 1 gauge wire in there welding cable is better than wire you can buy from stores in my opinion. just do the big 3, rewire the alt ground to zero gauge, the alt to battery to zero gauge and the battery negative/ground to chassis in the trunk to zero gauge . if you plan to run more batteries you can always use a dist block probably, i havent ran more than 2 batteries in my builds. or you can always make 2nd or 3rd runs from the point under your dash where the stock power wire is connected. and yes having the battery in the trunk is harsh on $$ when doing a big 3 ONLY if you plan to run multiple power wires from the point under your dash. but seeing the stock is 1 gauge welding cable you could always leave it and splice off that.

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sorry probably should have been a little more clear. big3 the zero gauge from alt to the firewall in the engine bay to where the stock 1 gauge connects. its kind of hard to get to. seeing the chargers and magnums are identical pretty much id be willing to bet the wire is mounted behing the carpet under passenger side dash.

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oh and i belioeve the magnums chargers and 300's have a controlled output for the alt. meaning if you throw in a ho alt you still may not get the ho voltage, the pcm controlls the alternator depending on voltage needs, you may have to bypass the pcm contolling the alt for your new alt to work like you want it to.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/172160-a-list-of-vehicle-manufactures-that-dodont-have-pcm-controlled-alternators/

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Ok thanks for the info on how the car is wired stock.

So yeah I was planning on doing the big 3, so on this vehicle it is only slightly different. So my main question is still the elephant in the room.

If i have this long wire running from the front to the back for the MAIN (stock) battery. should i.

1) just branch off of this battery and link it to my 2 other batteries

OR

2) should i run another run of 1/0 from the alt (or transition spot under the dash) to the 2 new batteries and have them seperated from the main battery.

I am still trying to figure out which is better/safer etc.

anyone have any input.

If it helps any, all 3 batteries would not be the same. the main battery would be your typical high CCA battery, and the 2 new ones would be the typical car stereo batteries.

Thanks in advance

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I have never worked on the newer dodge cars so take my advice for what it's worth.

I would run a double run of 1/0 from the alt to the extra batteries with each wire double fused - 1 near the alt and one near the batteries. I would replace the stock bat with an AGM and link it to the battery bank with a double run of 1/0. All OFC.

4000-5000 watts RMS is a lot of power to support.

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

Build Log

If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD

 
Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db
Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
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I have never worked on the newer dodge cars so take my advice for what it's worth.

I would run a double run of 1/0 from the alt to the extra batteries with each wire double fused - 1 near the alt and one near the batteries. I would replace the stock bat with an AGM and link it to the battery bank with a double run of 1/0. All OFC.

4000-5000 watts RMS is a lot of power to support.

would do this. local car audio stores sell 1/0 gauge wire for alot of $$, so maybe try and look online for a decent brand oz 1/0 gauge power wire you will probably need a good 15+ feet or more if you runnin 2 separate runs for each battery. hopefully you can find a hole in the dash / wal to run power wires. i havent done that since the bats were in the trunk so i have no idea where a access point is that you could feed some wires through.

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