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How to make sure my electrical system can handle 6000 watts, 4 questions ***ADDED PICS ON PAGE 4***


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Exactly /topic. Lol.

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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If your amplifier doesn't have onboard fusing, then you should install another fuse in the supply wire just before it enters the amplifier

I don't fuse my amps i see no point when the wires only a foot to 2 feet long and the only way the it would cause a problem if the wire came out of the amp and hit ground or the battery itself shorts out and if the amps draws a shit load of current for some odd reason your amps gone anyways so it wouldnt matter if it drew enough to blow the fuse

Granted if your running 6 plus amps i probably would just because thats alot of wires to check and make sure there in tight other then that i see no point

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I agree, but disagree that protecting the wire is taken out of context. Its being misunderstood. Which is ok, especially when clarification is provided.

It is however an issue when someone who has no idea of what they are talking about continually giving out incorrect, misleading, or misguided advice

Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?

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they put fuses and brakers in the house to protect the copper wire. Not the house, not you just the copper wire how f ing stooped does that sound?

And why do they put circuit breakers in houses?

I'll give you a hint.

house-fire.jpg

I'm still not sure how you're not getting this.

i shook this one kids hand and it just folded in mine. long story short i fucked his girlfriendso.. yeah..

You want this to happen to you? Give decent handshakes people.

I was gifted with an innate ability to distribute wholesale ass beatings in a timely and orderly fashion.
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Emmet that is my point exactly it protects you from fires, damaging your goods and excetera!

Team ht still following me (he loves me) I don't care how many ways you explain it. What is misleading is the term that u are using it may sound good to yall but it is wrong. you don't protect copper from grounding out you protect your car amps and excetera. Because it is explained in terms that you guys understand does not make it rite. If I walked in to a store and told some one I need a in line fuse to protect the wire they would look at me like I was crazy.

King dingalingIts not finished till i say so Bit@^!

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The fuse size is selected based on the wire. (Size, length, type of metal)

The purpose of a fuse is to protect the wire....FROM GROUNDING OUT.

Sorry I left that last bit off. It's usually a given and it's my mistake for not be thorough.

Power wire grounding out has consequences and fire, melted battery, damage equipment are all examples of possible consequences. We want to avoid these.

General rule is to place a fuse in a power wire at about 12" from any power source, or any time a power wire is split or reduced.

OK, so now we can close that topic and get the thread back on track.

Ed Lester

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Showtime Electronics Video Marketing

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The fuse amperage and wire size is determind by the power, load, length and resistance of equipment you are installing.

King dingalingIts not finished till i say so Bit@^!

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Basicly if you are going to protect the copper from grounding as every is talking about you would have to fuse every brake in that wire run from the alt to your equipment.

from alt to fuse to wire, from wire to fuse to bat, from bat to fuse to wire, from wire to fuse to secondary battery, (if this is part of set up) from battery to fuse to wire then wire to fuse to amp.

with second bat from battery to battery it can short out on either end

King dingalingIts not finished till i say so Bit@^!

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The fuse amperage and wire size is determind by the power, load, length and resistance of equipment you are installing.

Yes, you would choose power wire size based on the power you draw (consume) from the load. And going over this is usually advisable and helpful to reduce voltage drop.

So let's use an example.

Lets say I have a 2000W amp, and upgraded battery under the hood. And a 200A alternator

The alternator would supply current to the battery at a rating of 200A max.

So based on my wire chart I have in my hands. if the wire length is under 5ft long, I can use 4awg OFC from the alt to the battery.

If over 5ft I should use at least 2awg which will give me 300A capabilities.

If I want to fuse this, I would choose a fuse between 200A and 300A. Since 200A is the max output of the alt, I wouldnt want a fuse lower than this because it can blow under normal operation.

Also, you would not want to go over 300A since the wire cannot carry that much current anyway and the fuse will never blow in the event of a short.

So now from the battery to the amp.

If the amp can output a legit 2000W and is 70% efficient, it will consume up to 2857W. At the lowest operating voltage of 10V. This would draw about 285.7A. Now lets say that we need 15ft of power wire from the batt to the amp.

Again I refer to my power wire chart that shows 15ft of 1/0awg OFC capable of 300A. 2awg is only 200A and 1/0awg CCA is 240A. So I go with 1/0 OFC.

My fuse 12" from the batt should be between 285.7A and 300A. Since if lower than that, it could blow under normal operation and if over that it may never blow. So 300A fuse would work here. If any longer than 15ft then I may want to add more lengths of wire since my chart does show 16ft-20ft 1/0awg OFC as capable of carrying only 250A.

It's a tight fit.

Ed Lester

ShowtimeSPL Host

Showtime Electronics Video Marketing

My old Build Log
http://www.stevemead...08/#entry511451

http://www.youtube.com/showtimespl



TeamDeadlyHertz-HHREd.png


5 time dB Drag Finalist
Last ride 2007 HHR, current dB 153.5 and bass race 149.4 dB. 153.0 dB on music

New Ride, 2008 HHR SS. Build under way.
Loudest score ever = 171dB
2009 dB Drag Racing, North American Points Champion

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Basicly if you are going to protect the copper from grounding as every is talking about you would have to fuse every brake in that wire run from the alt to your equipment.

from alt to fuse to wire, from wire to fuse to bat, from bat to fuse to wire, from wire to fuse to secondary battery, (if this is part of set up) from battery to fuse to wire then wire to fuse to amp.

with second bat from battery to battery it can short out on either end

Yes, fusing near each power source and split or reduction in wire size is a standard used by professional installers, MECP regulations. And SQ competition organizations such as IASCA.

If you go to an IASCA competition where they judge install and you dont have a fuse 12" or less from any battery, you get points deducted. If you have a distribution block that splits 1 length of 1/0awg into 2) 4awgs and you do not fuse the 4 awgs, or even if the fuses are more than 12" away, you get points deducted.

Ed Lester

ShowtimeSPL Host

Showtime Electronics Video Marketing

My old Build Log
http://www.stevemead...08/#entry511451

http://www.youtube.com/showtimespl



TeamDeadlyHertz-HHREd.png


5 time dB Drag Finalist
Last ride 2007 HHR, current dB 153.5 and bass race 149.4 dB. 153.0 dB on music

New Ride, 2008 HHR SS. Build under way.
Loudest score ever = 171dB
2009 dB Drag Racing, North American Points Champion

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