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I am having trouble fitting two 12 inch subs and a 6-inch aero port into my front baffle. The aero port has a 8.25 inch cutout and 9.25 inch diameter. This is becoming an issue because I am limited by the size of my front baffle fitting into my trunk.

I am thinking about leaving the internal flare on the aero port inside the box but removing the outer flare outside the box. If I do this I only need a 6-inch cutout rather than the 8.25 inch cutout. This will free up some space on my front baffle and I can fit my two 12's.

Am I defeating the purpose of the aero port dynamics if I remove the outer flare? Will I lose db gains and increase the risk of port noise?

Thank you in advance for all the help.

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I am having trouble fitting two 12 inch subs and a 6-inch aero port into my front baffle. The aero port has a 8.25 inch cutout and 9.25 inch diameter. This is becoming an issue because I am limited by the size of my front baffle fitting into my trunk.

I am thinking about leaving the internal flare on the aero port inside the box but removing the outer flare outside the box. If I do this I only need a 6-inch cutout rather than the 8.25 inch cutout. This will free up some space on my front baffle and I can fit my two 12's.

Am I defeating the purpose of the aero port dynamics if I remove the outer flare? Will I lose db gains and increase the risk of port noise?

Thank you in advance for all the help.

I wouldn't say ur defeating the purpose, but it won't sound as good. If ur tight on space do a slot port.

Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT

Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-

Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) 

Subs/Amps: TBD

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You will cause more turbulence if you get rid of the flare, which in turn can lead to a lose of output.

I also haven't heard of slot ports being more efficient or space saving compared to aero-ports.

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Krakin's Home Dipole Project

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370

Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist?

I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself

but what has drawn your attention

in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums

An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space

Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears,

thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.

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From my experience you can always go deeper into a trunk build, but not necessarily wider. If he goes deeper into the trunk he can only give up say 5 in of width in the front and have enough room to mount the subs with plenty of clearance from the port. S

Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT

Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-

Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) 

Subs/Amps: TBD

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Depending in the car/trunk. Can always look into porting to the side

My build

98 s10 2.2

3 american bass HD 15s with psi soft parts. (on there way here)

atomic at-3000.1 (soon) 146.2 outlaw @39hz., bad alt an bad batt when termed (old 2 12" build)

alpine 6.5s in doors

infinty 4x6s in dash.

clarion cz201 HU.

mechman 240a H/O alt

stuff i still need.

SHCA 2/0 wire

SHCA 1/0 to 2/0 adapters

Atomic AT-3000.1

Lots of sound deadner

new mids an highs, still debating on what to do.

A few Deka g31 batts.

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Thanks for all the replies so far.

I am facing the subs and port into the cab and sealing off the trunk. My rear seats fold down completely.

If I move the front baffle right behind my rear seat bracket I can get a great seal, but the height and width are limited.

If I move the box back about 10 inches I have more width and height, but the box will be more difficult to seal and deeper in the trunk. I worry I may lose db gains in this position.

Any other opinions would be greatly appreciated.

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