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ZX2500.1 dies after 2 months? wtf?


ncc74656

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can you tell me the resistor color it looks like brown,green,brown and the last one is gold if it is its the 1/4 watt 150ohm 5%

as for the mosfet here you go

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IRF3205-IRF3205PBF-N-POWER-Mosfet-TO-220-1pc-FL-USA-/270876035917?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f11784b4d

if you look at the mosfet next to the melted one look at the pin their gold looking that tells me it got hot as hell.

02 dodge ram 1500 reg cab 3rd gen

2 sundown sd-2 d4

soundstream rub1.2500 amp

all sky high car audio-fuse,fuse holder,wire,ring lugs and rca

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box design by Joe X

supension-mcgaughys 2in drop spindal ,western chassis 6in flip kit,buddy custom c-notch

04 5.7l hemi motor swap and made it an slt eletric everthing

youtube channel-http://www.youtube.c...43?feature=mhee

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/190882-02-dodge-ram-1500-3rd-gen/

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now i read that the date codes MUST match on ALL mosfets or it will fail again. so i need to find where i can specify the date codes.

the resistor colors are: light brown/brown/green/brown

the resistor in between the speaker terminals looks quite roasted. it ohms out at 2.15 @ 20K ohm setting. its colors are: thick red/red/red/gold

nothing, gutted

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Could have just went bad man. Its not always something you did to make something fail. I know I had a kicker 2500 before and i ran mine at 1ohm on a stock alt with 1 Kinetik 2400 in the back and a yellow top up front. Never had any problems out of it beside getting out if I railed on it for too long

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the light brown maybe gold and the other resistor if it reads 2.15k ohms is all right its in tolerance and as for mosfet you don't have to but people says to change all to match but I never did an all the stuff I fixed never broke or anything.as you can see q854 has pd at the bottom right and the rest has 5j and q854 3k at the bottom left an the rest says 3d.

02 dodge ram 1500 reg cab 3rd gen

2 sundown sd-2 d4

soundstream rub1.2500 amp

all sky high car audio-fuse,fuse holder,wire,ring lugs and rca

flex tech

box design by Joe X

supension-mcgaughys 2in drop spindal ,western chassis 6in flip kit,buddy custom c-notch

04 5.7l hemi motor swap and made it an slt eletric everthing

youtube channel-http://www.youtube.c...43?feature=mhee

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/190882-02-dodge-ram-1500-3rd-gen/

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what is going on here? i had a ZX1500.1 for 5 and a half years with zero issues on stock electric between 3 different vehicles. My ZX2500.1 died earlier this year after only about 4 months of use, i sent it off to kicker for repair and got it back, not long after i lost my sub and had to buy a new one. this amp as is has been used less than a month and a half.
i was bumping at close to max volume day before yesterday, i arrive at my destination with time to spare so i sit in the truck with the engine off for about 45 min doing paper work with the stereo on at 1/4 volume. i had to run into the store so i shut off the truck accessories and go in, i come back out and turn the radio on again but no sub. i think the sub may have died or a cable came loose. so today i pull the amp and bring it in. the power light comes on, the protect light stays off. no signal output is produced what so ever. i have not opened it yet to check it out but it has got to be the amp at this point.
zero bass boost on amp, zero deck EQ, loudness, or bass boost. gains at 1/2 up on amp with remote bass volume knobb in use. the remote volume knob is used at 1/3-1/2 level.
the truck has zero gauge power/ground, a 280A mech man, and 4 group 31 batteries. 250A fuse on kicker did not blow, sub and amp were never more than warm to the touch. lowest voltage the amp ever saw was 12.2 while engine off and 13.6-14.2 while running.
im about to pull it apart but WTF am i missing here? should i just go buy a squared audio amp and be done with it? im at my whits end with this system and its failures.
edit: just pulled it apart and i have one resistor and a mosfet up in smoke (from what i can tell). someone please give me data on these parts, the resistor im sure i can find but where can i buy a mosfet? i want to solder this tomorrow and fix it rather than shipping it out.
secondly; WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!?! what do i have FU**ED up that is causing this 2500 to blow up?
J4sWidr.jpg

I was testing an amp when I dropped a copper wire across two transistors and they went up in smoke. Could it be possible that the bar holding the transistors and regulator could have shorted them? or was anything floating aroung in your amp?

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the bar is solid, it has not moved and is not in contact with any other parts.

the ranges that remain constant in the amp are the date codes and the part numbers. i emailed that ebay guy to see if he has them in the code i need or maybe ill buy all the power ones again and see where i get. they are cheap enough.

so my first thought was to solder them from the top so i dont need to pull the board out but idk if thats an option. the mosfets are pretty well stuck on the tape so i dont think im getting them off with out breaking a few of them.

36fnnmc.jpg

nothing, gutted

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ok so i will buy 2 of the mosfets to start with then and see how it goes. if they fail due to mismatched date code it should only be those mosfets that fail right? so i would need to replace all 20 of htem on the power side and call it a day. thats about 15.00 worth of mosfets then right?

nothing, gutted

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