Troy Mihalcheon Posted October 16, 2013 Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 Okay first of all I'm having an issue with my smaller amp going into protection mode with only the power, remote, and ground attatched after about 30 seconds with the volume at 0. I've done the big 3(only added wires). My power is coming from the front to the rear positive term. the ground is going from the negative term to the chassis. the amps are both going to the positive and negative terminals respectively. Is this a good ground? Should I take both amps to the chassis aswell and not to the negative terminal? It is also causing a strange clipping through my larger amp/woofer but no protection mode. The system was working for a couple weeks then just f'd up all of the sudden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Mihalcheon Posted October 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 It is basically this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rBzksEdE8o0 But there are 2 amps connected to the terminals, not just one.... Im going to check my deck ground and remote tomarrow and see if anything there is buggy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robby512 Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 In my truck Im running daul batteries positive to positive and negative to negative then power to positive and amps are ground into the frame not battery mine works fine I'd try and change the ground Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Mihalcheon Posted October 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Well I just added the factory ground to the chassis behind my aftermarket headunit just to add more groundedness incase something was wierd there but it didnt change anything. after all this I don't care anymore. Im gunna go ahead and drill 2 more holes through my trunk floor and spare tire well to get cables to the chassis and ground the amps and the battery there. maybe even make another ground point on the chassis just for the amps... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truthsayer Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Your amps should be ground to chassis, not the battery. have you also set amp gains correctly? truthsayer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Mihalcheon Posted October 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2013 Just finished grounding the amps to the chassis. the rear battery is grounded to the chassis near the amp ground. still getting protection mode with 0 volume. No I haven't set the gains. the woofer amp i have a 0-12 DB boost and a 0.2v to 6v input level dial. my HU sub rca outputs is like 4.5v so thats what I eyeballed the input voltage to. and the boost is at 0db. http://soundstream.com/store/car-audio/amplifiers/tarantula-ta/ta1-2000d.html. I don't really understand what the input voltage means. This is not the amp that is going into protection mode but the woofer still has a very justy distortion on low volume. a smaller Hertz amp for the mids/high is going into protection and it was working fine on a test bench yesterday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostin302 Posted October 18, 2013 Report Share Posted October 18, 2013 if i remember correct... you want to match your headunit output volts to your amp input volts.. Thats where distortion comes in. how would one measure the adjustable input volts of a amp to a HU volts? i cant remember ever seeing anything in the manual for the DD-1 that covers this. My build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/143943-2001-mustang-gt-system-rebuild-box-build-pics-updated-61512/ 2001 Ford Mustang GT 4.6 SOHC 380HP 270 amp Mechman alt 2 12" Treo SSX custom built. 6.47 cu ft, tuned to 32Hz 2 hifonics Brutus 2400.1, strapped 1 optima yellow top 1 Kinetic HC1800 14.4v @ 29Hz, 2k RPM over 100ft 1/0 XS flex wire Big 3 in 1/0 100sq ft fatmat deadener 145.3 on music, 142.6 sealed on music Stop being a pussy and wall it off. I hate when my google breaks too I think the usps must be ran by a bunch of drunk ass oriental midget monkey's on methamphetamines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Mihalcheon Posted October 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2013 I have no clue about the input voltage adjustment. I just know my HU outputs around 4.5v so I eyeballed the knob to there... thats all just for a system test though I never had it cranked. Okay so I FIGURED IT OUT. I took the car in to a local shop with an installer with 21 years of experience. he is a cunt. he couldnt figure out anything and they just shit on me. so thats when I did all new grounds ect earlier. I also bought a tsunami 140amp breaker from them a month ago which was previously damaged (the installer told me i'd never pull 170 amps and to go with this one). the reset lever was broken and the red push button is loose. anyways I couldnt tell it was popped. there was continuity through it but when I put a light tester to it, the amp side was dead. so I reset it with some pliers and the amps are fine now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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