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Copper Bus Bar Ground Question


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I recently bought a copper bus bar and want to use it for grounding my amps.

I plan on attaching it to the negative terminal on the battery under the hood and both negative terminals on the two batteries in the trunk.

Do I also need to attach it to the chassis as well?

Of the three batteries in the car the only one grounded to the chassis is the one under the hood.

Any setup options and advice would be greatly appreciated.

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I would like to add question as well (without thread stealing)

What type of metal bolts would others suggest? I read about using stainless on aluminum but what to use on copper buss bars?

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If you don't ground the batts in the trunk then they won't work

Once you flaten them they will have no way of recharging

Use the buss bars to join the 2 (-) and 2 (+) together

You don't need then in the front at all

Run big 3 to front batt like normal

And run another 1-3 lines to rear batt from all (number of lines depends in alt power)

How're ever many (+) lines you have you need the equal amount of earths

For a 300 amp alt idd do 2 0g run to rear batt

And 1 to front batt

I would then do 2 grounds at rear batt

And 2 grounds from alt/engine

1 from alt/engine to main batt

And 1-2 from main batt to chassis

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I was under the impression that the "best" ground for trunk batteries and amps would be a 0 gauge wire from the negative battery terminal under the hood rather than the frame/chassis/body. This is why I wanted to run the hood battery to the copper bus bar in the trunk and attach everything to this.

I was told that a vehicle frame is skeptical and could carry lots of resistance (metal, rust, etc). I figured the 0 gauge copper wire would be a better option.

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I was under the impression that the "best" ground for trunk batteries and amps would be a 0 gauge wire from the negative battery terminal under the hood rather than the frame/chassis/body. This is why I wanted to run the hood battery to the copper bus bar in the trunk and attach everything to this.

I was told that a vehicle frame is skeptical and could carry lots of resistance (metal, rust, etc). I figured the 0 gauge copper wire would be a better option.

tony damore did a video on this and unless you are running MASSIVE power chassis grouns id the way to go versus buying all the extra wire to run from front battery to back battery.

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