Daniel Harbeson Posted October 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 You have an expedition. I'm sure you have more than enough room. Don't worry about tuning to 28 hz. As long as you arent overpwoering some ungodly amount you can still play under tuning. Id shoot for 33 or so to be honest. But you need to build bigger stronger and better with more port area. That thing would shred itself in minutes single baffled all the way around. I know, my measurements were with the side panels still intact, I still gotta rip all that good stuff out and get some new measurements and see what im working exactly. The amps I wanna put two racks in, 1 on each side of the car in the windows slanted. I just gotta dive in and get a box built So I can build the rest of the car lol. ^^^Agree with the others. 300+ inches of port to start and 1.5" on all sides. Tuning in mid to low 30s. Those subs will do their job in a box without high 20s tuning. High 20s is silly to me if you plan on playing ANYTHING other than Decaf or chopped and screwed music. I really only been playing decaf and low hitting songs. Don't big into high note songs. I will change it if i don't like how it hits. this is what i came up with. Port is still small for me, but not knowing how much height you are willing to give up, this is about as good as it is going to get. Doubled all around, triple baffle, didnt do bracing because it is just a visual representation. Thanks for the help with specs. I will take them into consideration . I kinda wanna keep the top of the box level with the top of my back seats head rest. but I may have to sacrifice that want lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy95 Posted October 27, 2013 Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 You have an expedition. I'm sure you have more than enough room. Don't worry about tuning to 28 hz. As long as you arent overpwoering some ungodly amount you can still play under tuning. Id shoot for 33 or so to be honest. But you need to build bigger stronger and better with more port area. That thing would shred itself in minutes single baffled all the way around. I know, my measurements were with the side panels still intact, I still gotta rip all that good stuff out and get some new measurements and see what im working exactly. The amps I wanna put two racks in, 1 on each side of the car in the windows slanted. I just gotta dive in and get a box built So I can build the rest of the car lol. ^^^Agree with the others. 300+ inches of port to start and 1.5" on all sides. Tuning in mid to low 30s. Those subs will do their job in a box without high 20s tuning. High 20s is silly to me if you plan on playing ANYTHING other than Decaf or chopped and screwed music. I really only been playing decaf and low hitting songs. Don't big into high note songs. I will change it if i don't like how it hits. this is what i came up with. Port is still small for me, but not knowing how much height you are willing to give up, this is about as good as it is going to get. Doubled all around, triple baffle, didnt do bracing because it is just a visual representation. Thanks for the help with specs. I will take them into consideration . I kinda wanna keep the top of the box level with the top of my back seats head rest. but I may have to sacrifice that want lol. if you want a box that wont flex and is done right, you will. Quote Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockford96 Posted October 27, 2013 Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 Have you thought about paying someone for a design? 1 Quote My setup, Digital Designs M80 3 Re audio 10's ported tuned to 36 hz Kenwood x-696 SHCA 0 gauge Polk audio coax running off hu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted October 27, 2013 Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 seee you are thinking in whats going to look cool. not whats going to work. Your wire runs with amps in each window are going to be retarded long. not to mention you will have to fabricate a mount that can take abuse to hold them. more than likely it would need welded in as well or lse its not going to last. If you really want some amps to come humpty dumptying then by all means you can get away with cutting corners. 2 Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted October 27, 2013 Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 Not that I'm half as good in audio as many of your replies. But when I think of something I shoot for the most functional design and try to make it cool while still keeping things 100% functional. Ex, if the amps gotta be logo upside down to be functional > looks then I do that. If I gotta have these wires showing but I have more cooling for my amps, I do that. Ect ect. Try looking at it in a "ideal functional" mind set and try to make it look pretty from there. 4 15's or 6 12's might be better functional because you can double layer the whole box and maybe even a triple layer on the top to add more strength. Putting the amps together instead of on opposite sides of the vehicle, with the power inputs facing closest to your battery bank for short clean wire runs that don't cross over RCA's and speaker wires would also be another thing. Just food for thought. Quote My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Harbeson Posted October 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 seee you are thinking in whats going to look cool. not whats going to work. Your wire runs with amps in each window are going to be retarded long. not to mention you will have to fabricate a mount that can take abuse to hold them. more than likely it would need welded in as well or lse its not going to last. If you really want some amps to come humpty dumptying then by all means you can get away with cutting corners. I just thought it would be a good spot for the amps since I'm keeping the back seats. I don't wanna have room under the seats due to that is where the 1100.4's are going. And the bats are going under the front of the box where the 3rd row seating folds down into. Only other option would be to mount them on the front of box behind the seats. Would be closer to the bats :0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Harbeson Posted November 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2013 (edited) RE did the box after talking with 1clio6. Took his advise. Came up with this. The supports are half inch threaded rod. triple baffle on top, double all around. And I even put the amps on front of the box. Lemme know what you guys think of that. P.s. Yes I'm gonna round the edges of the port and supports in the port. Also the cut outs are the actually size of the gasket of the speaker. Not sure why i did that lol. Cut out is inch n half less in diameter sp 3/4 inches off each side. so its not so scarey looking at how close the holes are lol. Edited November 3, 2013 by Daniel Harbeson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy95 Posted November 3, 2013 Report Share Posted November 3, 2013 port is way too small..... i would use that port for maybe 2 18s..... you have the cone area of almost 4 18's.... Quote Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoudBimmer Posted November 3, 2013 Report Share Posted November 3, 2013 why not just do 4 18"? more cone area, so you'll get more shakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Harbeson Posted November 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2013 port is way too small..... i would use that port for maybe 2 18s..... you have the cone area of almost 4 18's.... I know, Im working on making it atleast 10 sqin per cuft. Clio box is tuned like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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