Daniel Harbeson Posted November 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2013 Thanks clean! And yeah, he's helping. Only reason I was .5 ohm was I'm using dual 2 ohm subs. I already bought one of them for sizing and to play with for shits n giggles. Guess if I have to I can sell that one and buy dual 4 ohm subs. To run 1ohm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95 south Posted November 3, 2013 Report Share Posted November 3, 2013 Is it that Clio guy that it's helping you? I can see after the bad input you've received over the couple designs that you've posted, why you're wanting to keep the future designs secret. I'm sorry if I've come off as harsh. I really want to see you succeed man, seriously. All I will say, as far as real advice goes is please give the subs enough port area to perform. Don't get caught up in "port per square foot", that isn't going to help you. A sub needs how much port a sub NEEDS. It doesn't matter if that sub is in 3 cubic feet or 2 cubic feet. So don't pay attention to port per square foot. Overall port area is what you're after. And I'll throw in another idea, don't run your amps at half ohm. You're going to have tons of cone area you don't need to overpower the subs like that. 1 ohm per sub will be just fine, meaning you need to but subs that will wire at a final load of 1 ohm per two subs. If you truly plan on sending a SHITLOAD of power to each sub, consider that you'll need to shrink the box size to compensate for overdriving your woofer. If you have those subs in an enclosure meant for a sub being sent RMS power, you could have issues with keeping the sub under control mechanically(not to mention the extra heat you'll create with the extra power and stress the sub thermally TOO) Anyway, those area my $.02(maybe more). Like I said, I want to see you succeed with this project and I want to see videos of this monster. Have a nice day Very well said man......That encouragement helps guys a lot. Quote No System......GFY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cox Posted November 3, 2013 Report Share Posted November 3, 2013 Secret plans. Lol Quote Kenwood Excelon x396AQ2200Fi Q 12XS D3400 XS XP30001/0 RADAFLEXStinger volt meter Mechman 240a alt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cox Posted November 3, 2013 Report Share Posted November 3, 2013 Guys here have all the knowledge in the world and have tried to help. Why do you want it to be "secret"? Quote Kenwood Excelon x396AQ2200Fi Q 12XS D3400 XS XP30001/0 RADAFLEXStinger volt meter Mechman 240a alt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1clio6 Posted November 8, 2013 Report Share Posted November 8, 2013 Is it that Clio guy that it's helping you? I can see after the bad input you've received over the couple designs that you've posted, why you're wanting to keep the future designs secret. I'm sorry if I've come off as harsh. I really want to see you succeed man, seriously. All I will say, as far as real advice goes is please give the subs enough port area to perform. Don't get caught up in "port per square foot", that isn't going to help you. A sub needs how much port a sub NEEDS. It doesn't matter if that sub is in 3 cubic feet or 2 cubic feet. So don't pay attention to port per square foot. Overall port area is what you're after. And I'll throw in another idea, don't run your amps at half ohm. You're going to have tons of cone area you don't need to overpower the subs like that. 1 ohm per sub will be just fine, meaning you need to but subs that will wire at a final load of 1 ohm per two subs. If you truly plan on sending a SHITLOAD of power to each sub, consider that you'll need to shrink the box size to compensate for overdriving your woofer. If you have those subs in an enclosure meant for a sub being sent RMS power, you could have issues with keeping the sub under control mechanically(not to mention the extra heat you'll create with the extra power and stress the sub thermally TOO) Anyway, those area my $.02(maybe more). Like I said, I want to see you succeed with this project and I want to see videos of this monster. Have a nice day Im guessing its me you mean with the clio. ive had no input on the box design that has been given above, I just stated some details of my box. in the uk we use a smaller port area because of the frequencies we have to run in the propper droppers format. try playing a 20hz tone full tilt on anything over rated power with a larger port area and you will run into mechanical problems, that's why we limit our port area to below 10sqin per cuft as that seems to work best. the loudest in out country run just over 6sqin per cuft and still doing over 160db at 33hz and 157db at 20hz. that is not to say its loudest with a smaller port area, but its what we have to stick to if we want to compete in the format and have good results. just to clear up that is not bad advice, just what works best for us Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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