FamilyB4Others Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 Equipment list: (2)Audioque 3500.1 (2)18" subs (to be determined) Wires: CCA (have it laying around) I know OFC is better... Question: Should I run 4(+) 4(-) power wire from the front battery 1(d5100R) to rear 3(9A31) batteries, inside the car or outside? My goal is for a clean install, safe and reliable. Thanks for the help as always. On more question, do you think I should just buy OFC wire and do 3/3 run instead of 4/4? Is it worth the trouble of having to sale all the CCA wire first to help purchase the OFC wire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 not gonna enter the OFC/CCA battle but it's easier if you can run the wire under the vehicle and have it be protected very well. Also, you don't need to run any negative runs, just positive, according to Tony 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MASTER T KILLA Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 I was wondering this same thing but with running one 0(+) along the passenger side of my 03 Grand Marquis which is what i have now and just adding another strand of 0(+) on the driver side. I dont want to have engine noise from my rca wires touching my power wire and as i live in Michigan and we have pot holes and what not the size of small cars id rather not run my wires outside the car. 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (CVB 25th Chapter) Alpine Head Unit stock 6x9's Powerbass ASA 1500.1Dx FC 1200 krank-it up battery HC 800 Kinetik battery Orion HCCA 12.4 in slot ported box wired down to 2 ohms Audiopipe 1/0 gauge wire Rockford fosgate ring terminals Subscribe to the Youtube page http://www.youtube.com/user/TManMusicPage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Depends on the vehicle. I'm not a fan or 8 holes in my firewall though THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 You'd probably be good with 4 runs total, or only 2 positive with rear batts grounded to the unibody. No need for 4+ and 4-. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoove Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 4 runs at 300amp per run is 1200amps of capabilty. I'm your only gonna have like 1 300am alt. So you dont need more than 2+ runs. Anything over that is a waste of money. Plus those Amps are never gonna draw enough power to need more than 2 runs. 2 Team Fi 15's v1 2 DD M5's 970amps of Alt 6th order blowthroughThe truck Blowthrough build : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/155555-smooves-1996-chevy-ext-cab-c1500-slow-build/The 350z build : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/170694-smooves-2003-nissan-350z/ My FB page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Smooves-Car-Audio-and-performance/719746144805343 Team Fi Audio http://www.ficaraudio.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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