BassObsessed192 Posted January 18, 2014 Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 As of lately I've been having doubts about my system in regards to installing/putting more into it or just stopping and leaving it the way it is. I have a 2003 Chevy Tahoe with 2 Fi Q 15's on 2K watts. An under-sized Ported Box tuned to 30hz (probably is 4.5 cubes on 2 15's...really small). Stock alternator. 2 Batteries (still dips voltage though). Stock Bose mids + tweeters. Have NO sound deadener installed atm. Anyway I'm just going to list out the things i'd LIKE to do to the truck soon, but don't know how worth it it would be to do so, here it is: single or double layer Murder Mat in the entire truck, get clean+loud mids + highs, get a 7-8 cu ft Ported Box tuned to 33hz (have NO IDEA where port(s) should be - still facing trunk lid OR facing roof? - not to mention id like to keep my middle row seats), and possibly upgrade the alternator to a 250+ amp. My problem is if I decide to do even ONE of those things in that list, I figure i should do ALL of them just to have my system "perfect" as much as it can be and possibly compete hopefully one day soon. You can imagine to do all that it once would cost a decent amount of cash. There's a nerve-wrecking issue I'm having with the overall Sound Quality of my build atm. That would be the front 2 doors + windows rattling / making a heavy amount of unwanted tones. I figured 2 15's on only 2k wouldn't make that much bad noise, but it does in my truck. I literally have to press my leg against the door panel to bring those noises down to a cleaner level of sound. The lows arent as bad as the highs, but it still irritates the heck out of me. Well guys I know this is a pretty lengthy post but if anyone has any advice about sound quality, the box design + space in the vehicle, etc id really appreciate it. I'd HATE to just say that I'm done with the whole bass system after i put quit a bit of time and money into the truck already, but its almost coming down to that. Would anyone with sound-deadened systems be able to tell me how much the deadener helps with door panel and especially window noise? I appreciate whoever can offer anything, thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranny Posted January 18, 2014 Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 proper sized box. proper sized port. proper electrical. deadener. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmets Posted January 18, 2014 Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 Your "perfect" system can take years and can end up changing out equipment/brands some what often. I have been trying to do a perfect system since I started and still am not there. When I am done with what I am doing now I think I will be over ten grand and that isn't counting the time I put into it. Just parts. Deadener is a must. I don't even have it yet. Anyways deaden all the doors, floor and roof. Double up in those problem areas. Get a H/O alt and change your box out. Go with specs to be safe. I like subs up port back. Just my preference and many others will agree. Don't expect to be perfect right away. I may take a while. There are a lot of people that spend all year to get their systems right and the following season they still work on it. Sometimes can be an endless process. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/177477-slowboring-07-trailblazer-build/Pioneer DEH-80PRSPRV 8MR400-NDY (eight) PRV TW350Ti (6)Sky High 1/0 OFC, 12 gauge and 8 gaugeTM Metalworkz battery terminals 120 sqft HushmatXS Power D3100 (6)Singer 350 Amp Alt Singer 320 (2)American Bass SQL3200 JL Audio JX360/4 Crossfire XS 8K (2) DC Audio XL 15s (6) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassObsessed192 Posted January 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 proper sized box. proper sized port. proper electrical. deadener. By proper sized box, lets say i DO get a 7 or 8 cube box tuned @33hz, im having a hard time believing that'll fit in the trunk space without me needing to rip out the middle row seats. Even if it does fit in there (tightly), having the box with subs up port back still would be bad if the port is almost air-tight facing the trunk?? Would port up be better in that case? especially if i double-layer deaden the roof? \ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmets Posted January 18, 2014 Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 I don't know what your dimensions are in the back of the Tahoe but I know I have a box for two 15s that I want to say is a little over ten total. After port and bracing its 7 but I still have a little room in my trailblazer http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/177477-slowboring-07-trailblazer-build/Pioneer DEH-80PRSPRV 8MR400-NDY (eight) PRV TW350Ti (6)Sky High 1/0 OFC, 12 gauge and 8 gaugeTM Metalworkz battery terminals 120 sqft HushmatXS Power D3100 (6)Singer 350 Amp Alt Singer 320 (2)American Bass SQL3200 JL Audio JX360/4 Crossfire XS 8K (2) DC Audio XL 15s (6) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassObsessed192 Posted January 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 I don't know what your dimensions are in the back of the Tahoe but I know I have a box for two 15s that I want to say is a little over ten total. After port and bracing its 7 but I still have a little room in my trailblazer Hey man i checked out your build and box, that box is hugeee! so when you count the cubic feet per sub, that does not include the port and such? you said yours is 10, but is 7 minus port and bracing. so anyway, if i make or have someone else make me a box that is 7-8 cubic feet, that measurement is actually less with the port? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 if you cant fit 7-8cubes net do 6-7cubes net. maybe more power to make up for lack of volume. I would do the upgrades In this order electrical ( big3 2 runs 1/0 gauge for the power your running should be fine alt) mids and highs sound deadener ( if your going to be running more power wire should try and do the power wire and deadener at the same time since to run the wire you have to pull the enterior apart anyways. 2 birds 1 stone type of thing) then work on the box design and amp rack. that way you can get a nice design and amp rack all put together at the same time. if not you might end up building a box then not having room to place the amps the way you would like/want. then you do one design and build once. and to answer the question of if its worth it or not, it is always worth it for music. you cant just start and not finish because then you will look at it one day and tell yourself your disappointed in yourself for not doing it 100%. regrets suck so do your best the first time and not look back. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj11 Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 sound deadner is worth every penny! do that first! do it now! you will see a big big difference. id do the Mat first then go from there. jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 there is gross and net volume when talking about a subwoofer enclosure. net is what you need in order for the sub to be happy. gross, total volume before sub, port, and bracing displacement net, total volume after all displacement. its what matters in a box port area is important to, to small and you can have port noise to big and you can have a sub that acts like it is being free aired. port placement is important so that the sub isn't loading right into the port. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj11 Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 I'm thinking about moving my sub placement. i have a feeling that my subs are to close to my port. i think I'm.gonna cut my current top then add another top and move the subs as far away from the port as possible. so I'd be using the first top as bracing jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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