cloud77 Posted January 24, 2014 Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 make sure you didn't puncture a + wire when drilling holes in your firewall, exc. 2004 Grand Prix GT (2) 12" RE XXXs (04/05 XBL^2) 5 cu. ft tuned @ 35 Hz MMATS HD4000.05 MMATS SQ4100 Infinity Kappa components Juice Box black cherry Duralast platinum group 34 1/0 KNU OFC, 2/0 welding Singer 250A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sundown escort Posted January 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 I got a working dmm(oh and this one is also telling me that the batteries voltage is a more desirable 12.65) and tested for a parasitic draw. None exists. I am led to believe that I have a bad battery. One playing games at that. I know that it is uncommon for a battery to read proper voltage, yet be bad. The cranking amps or reserve in the battery is gone. Being on its way out in collaboration with negative temperatures may have been its death. Also, I want to believe that the front battery being bad has created a parasitic draw on the rear battery upon its death. So...I will be replacing the front battery with the rear battery that has been out of the car for two days now. If it starts in the morning(after being hooked up all night) I believe that i have discovered the issue. Does this sound right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbeljefe Posted January 24, 2014 Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 You got it bro! Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sundown escort Posted January 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 You got it bro! Haha. Thanks man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sundown escort Posted January 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 Sorry I drug this silly problem out for so long guys. Thanks to everyone for the advice/help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbeljefe Posted January 24, 2014 Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 It isn't a silly problem dude. I've been out of college for electronics for 25 years and I got my ass whipped by a battery like that a few months ago. ;-) Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sundown escort Posted January 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 It isn't a silly problem dude. I've been out of college for electronics for 25 years and I got my ass whipped by a battery like that a few months ago. ;-) Oh...Well now I know. And I learned about and how to test for parasitic draw during the process Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbeljefe Posted January 24, 2014 Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 That's right man. We all have something to learn from every experience. Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sundown escort Posted January 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 I just went and talked to a reputable guy I know. We came up with a new idea. Maybe it is not the batteries. As we know, batteries need to be above freezing to take a proper charge. I'd love to see the argument about that statement because I really don't know, just taking someones word for it. I am considering that the 1 hour drive time that I do 4 times a week, which is 1 hour there 1 hour back, 7 hours of shutoff time in between and only on Tuesdays and Thursdays....is not enough to charge the batteries. Throughout this drive cycle how much time is it taking to get the battery warmed up? Oh and I forgot to mention that the hood is not insulated. Is the rear one even gonna take a charge? I say this because the trunk is cold, it doesn't warm up. Lastly, this car normally doesn't go anywhere else. Keep in mind that the temperatures here are averaging between 5 and 10 degrees. When I arrived home last night, I swapped the batteries out. Now the rear one, that sat in the house for two consecutive days, is in the engine bay and the other is now in the house. Upon swapping the batteries I immediately started the cold car with ease and then ran it for about 30 minutes max. This morning, about 12 hours later, the car was cranking a little slower, but it started. Yesterday I had to get a jump start 2 hours after the one hour drive. I left the car running for 4 hours straight after the jump start. I believe that that battery now has a full charge, unless it is truly junk. I am going to let that battery sit in the house until it has reached room temperature, then throw it back in the car and see what it does. Right at this moment the car is idling outside and I will let it run for 3-4 hours so that I know I am getting a full charge. If anything I said is wrong, I would like to be corrected. Let me know if i missed anything too. I would also appreciate some advice on how to get a battery properly charged that is experiencing anywhere between -20 and 20 degrees. One situation that makes me feel wrong is this. My dad only runs his truck for about 30 minutes, shuts it off for 8 hours, then runs if for another 30 minutes. This is every night except for Friday and Saturday though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crandis16 Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 What kind of batteries are you running? My Red zx2 Build Log My Black zx2 Build Log My Red zx2 UBL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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