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Clamping Method vs SMD AD-1 Amp Dyno vs. SMD AMM-1 Audio Multimeter


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so different amps/setups will have different % of difference between the dyno and clamp method right? or at least I would think it wouldn't always be a difference of 34.5%.

just asking that so people don't see the vid and say o well if its only a difference of 34.5% then I can clamp and subtract the % difference to get the true rms. I could see that happening.

great video once again though. glad you posted this meade, I didn't see the other thread so works for me.

remember everyone, haters will keep on hating. some people are most likely seeing these vids about how clamping doesn't work because of its inaccurate results from the lack of actually understanding what they are doing imo are just upset because what they thought their setup was putting out isn't what the true rms output is. people don't like being proven wrong or told that the excepted way to do something is inaccurate and a thing of the past.

I say let the haters hate while the rest of us thrive off of their hate to achieve better. I know when someone tells me I can do something I do it just to prove them wrong.

D'amore had a vid showing why it's off. Something about phase differences. I haven't watched in a while but here:

Phase Angle comes into play when you are using a subwoofer as you load, not a resistive load.

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so.... clamp testing is no good? highly think that's not true. bin there for years and smd stuff not made to long ago not saying smd is crap but highly doubt in my head that people that do this for a job to check there electricity and all around industrial areas going to say its not going to read you the right rms coming from one thing... just saying for people who don't use it for car audio I highly would think there readings are wrong.

I saw all the posts disagreeing with you, but I don't know how anybody understood any of this shit you wrote to argue against you. Please help me understand what the fuck you are talking about?

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thank you cj18, that's what I was trying to explain with my last post but you said it much better.

in short what im seeing is that with out the proper equipment (which gets expensive just for a good scope) you cant get an accurate results from the clamping that most people do. it can be a more accurate test with the right tools at hand and more work but for the money the amm1 is a steal.

all the scopes ive seen run around $300-400 for a nice one. don't forget the dmm and getting a test bench together to put a reactive load on the amp to get a true rms reading at a given load.

You are looking at about $5000 worth of testing equipment sitting on my make shift bench. I have the tools to do the job correctly, most people dont.

The AMM1 now provides an affordable solution that.

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Oh ok. It makes more sense now, CJ. That makes all the terminology being thrown around make much more sense.

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might be the model of a cheap clamp my guess is why its reading this? idk smd stuff is sweet stuff but somthings don't look right for the clamp my guess.

You crack me up. Cheap meter? Do you even know who/ what Fluke is. Go do your homework.

might be the model of a cheap clamp my guess is why its reading this? idk smd stuff is sweet stuff but somthings don't look right for the clamp my guess.

You crack me up. Cheap meter? Do you even know who/ what Fluke is. Go do your homework.

Hell naw he doesn't. I bet he thinks his 20 dollar auto zone dmm could compete.

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better+pic.jpg

That is like a milisecond after the 651 pops up. And that is 683 watts at 4 ohms or 701 at 3.9 ohms. And even in the video I can tell the wave is just starting to clip.

So if you actually performed the test where the tone stopped when the dyno stopped then they both would have been within a few watts of each other.

And it's really not hard to use your eyes if you have the scope resolution set correctly. But again even through a YT video I can see when it starts clipping.

Not to mention how fast the tone used ramps up the signal voltage. If you were just rolling it up instead you could actually watch the wave.

Like Taylor said. Take the video down and do the test properly.

Do it like this. Dyno the amp. Figure the correct output voltage for the amp to be clean. Set your clamps and scope up and then get to that voltage showing it's clean. then go slightly over and watch the wave clip. Showing they are accurate with each other.

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thank you cj18, that's what I was trying to explain with my last post but you said it much better.

in short what im seeing is that with out the proper equipment (which gets expensive just for a good scope) you cant get an accurate results from the clamping that most people do. it can be a more accurate test with the right tools at hand and more work but for the money the amm1 is a steal.

all the scopes ive seen run around $300-400 for a nice one. don't forget the dmm and getting a test bench together to put a reactive load on the amp to get a true rms reading at a given load.

You are looking at about $5000 worth of testing equipment sitting on my make shift bench. I have the tools to do the job correctly, most people dont.

The AMM1 now provides an affordable solution that.

That's what i'm trying to say, with cost difference between the tools needed to get an accurate test the amm1 is a hands down winner.

Yes clamping with the right tools can give you More accurate result but still not 100% and not as cost effective. Let's face it us audio guys are always looking for a good way to save money while still getting the install done right. The amm1 helps do that plus some with ease and accuracy.

Sorry if anyone feels like i'm baking clamping, not trying to. It's the way of the past and inaccurate compared to the amm1. For a cost effective tool the amm1 is a steal.

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thank you cj18, that's what I was trying to explain with my last post but you said it much better.

in short what im seeing is that with out the proper equipment (which gets expensive just for a good scope) you cant get an accurate results from the clamping that most people do. it can be a more accurate test with the right tools at hand and more work but for the money the amm1 is a steal.

all the scopes ive seen run around $300-400 for a nice one. don't forget the dmm and getting a test bench together to put a reactive load on the amp to get a true rms reading at a given load.

You are looking at about $5000 worth of testing equipment sitting on my make shift bench. I have the tools to do the job correctly, most people dont.

The AMM1 now provides an affordable solution that.

That's what i'm trying to say, with cost difference between the tools needed to get an accurate test the amm1 is a hands down winner.

Yes clamping with the right tools can give you More accurate result but still not 100% and not as cost effective. Let's face it us audio guys are always looking for a good way to save money while still getting the install done right. The amm1 helps do that plus some with ease and accuracy.

Sorry if anyone feels like i'm baking clamping, not trying to. It's the way of the past and inaccurate compared to the amm1. For a cost effective tool the amm1 is a steal.

Unless the amm1 is cheaper than 250 bucks then it's actually not the better deal. But if you honestly need something that can measure taking into account for the power factor then I guess spend the extra money. 99% of people don't do it and so the industry standard is basically clamping for voltamps.

Edited by SINTORMAN
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better+pic.jpg

That is like a milisecond after the 651 pops up. And that is 683 watts at 4 ohms or 701 at 3.9 ohms. And even in the video I can tell the wave is just starting to clip.

So if you actually performed the test where the tone stopped when the dyno stopped then they both would have been within a few watts of each other.

And it's really not hard to use your eyes if you have the scope resolution set correctly. But again even through a YT video I can see when it starts clipping.

Not to mention how fast the tone used ramps up the signal voltage. If you were just rolling it up instead you could actually watch the wave.

Like Taylor said. Take the video down and do the test properly.

Do it like this. Dyno the amp. Figure the correct output voltage for the amp to be clean. Set your clamps and scope up and then get to that voltage showing it's clean. then go slightly over and watch the wave clip. Showing they are accurate with each other.

The video is staying up. I will make sure to really hurt the clampers feelings when I test the AMM1 vs Clamping using a Subwoofer.

Point of this.

AMM1 very simple.

Clamping- To find the exact point, you have to video it and then go back to watch that video to try and find the point just before clipping. Pain in the ass.

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